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View Full Version : Ever get that scary leaning dead tree??



red maples
12-27-2009, 04:11 PM
Since it was so warm today hit 50F wow. I took the saw out to woods and cut down a big oak that has been haunting me for 2 years. about 26" at the base leans a little has a slight twist and has been dead for a few years. but I had about a 10 foot spot to drop it so it wouldn't get hung up and dropped it perfect dead center:) very proud of myself. But I have to admitt this one scared me a bit I was afraid of a barber's chair because I didn't know how rotted it was but the rot only goes in about 3/4 inch and the rest is solid to the core!!! but I had a good escape route!!! anyway took out 5 trees now I have to wait for the swamp to refreeze so I can get them out. I can't get to them anyother time its just too deep!!

dschultz
12-27-2009, 04:48 PM
Red Maples,you should of done the hinge cut on that leaning tree then you don't have to worry about it barber chairing on you

KenWP
12-27-2009, 05:23 PM
I have hundreds of those to cut down. I had a micro burst go thru and leaned over a whole bunch of trees. It's hard to cut them as I have to cut the ones they lean against first and then them. I had some huge spruce or what ever they are and many what a pain to get them down. I finally used a winch and a long pole and got the ends out far enough so the tops would fall.
With all the rain I had a bunch more go over in Novemebr again also. Luckly they are all cedars or spruce so far.

maplemat1
12-27-2009, 05:23 PM
had a fork tree that was in danger of hitting the sugarhouse had to put backhoe on it and stand ot top of rock wall to cut it down worked out ok but had to ckeck my shorts after it fell .

vtsnowedin
12-27-2009, 05:36 PM
I don't know of any named cut that takes into account the amount of rot that maybe hidden just inside of a tree. Once upon a time I notched a beech tree that seemed sound enough but almost as soon as I started the main cut I cut through the two inches of shell that was all that remained sound on that side of the tree. The tree popped , spun around on the bit of hinge nearest the saw and dropped straight down on the saw motor smashing it to fragments and putting a ninety degree bend in the bar. I beat a hasty retreat to the side and then watched a family of raccoons emerge from the remains of their home and head off in a huff.
Dead, hollow, leaning, entwinned with a neighbor, They are all bad and they call them widow-makers for good reason. Take care.

maple flats
12-27-2009, 07:48 PM
I had one I was asked to take down about 35 yrs ago. It was growing within about 3 or 4" of the overhang of a building I was hired to renovate. I said I could take it down for them, the tree showed no dead limbs and was well leafed. It was nearly straight and was about 15" diameter, red maple. I knotched it to remove the wedge to drop it straight away from the building and there was nothing in the way. The wedge looked good and I worked the bar in from the back side and I cut about 2" deep when the tree snapped at right angle to the hinge cut, fell just brushing the overhang and went over the road, taking 6 utility poles with it, it broke no wires but pulled the wires to the ground and made the 6 poles in one direction which was the end of a line lean over. These were what I call junior poles, about 7-8" in diameter and shorter than typical, maybe only 20' out of the ground. I called the power company and told them what happened. I expected to get a huge bill. The power co came, with 2 big trucks and 2 or 3 p/u size service trucks and each had at least 2 men in them. They looked at what the damage was, came to look at the stump and fixed the poles by just pushing them upright and dropping stones in the space that was left. The checked each home or camp to see if any had pulled the entrance cables loose and none had. When they were done I asked how I was going to be billed. Then a miracle happened. They said, don't worry about it, they fix things like this all of the time and said they could have made the same mistake, that the tree looked healthy on the outside. It was totally rotten except the hinge face cut I made. All other sides had less than about a half inch of unrotted wood inside the bark. Now I never cut any tree within striking distance of utility lines nor buildings unless they are small enough that I can push them should they start to go the wrong way. But boy did I luck out, had it been one of the big electric suppliers instead of a local co-op I would still be paying.

gator330
12-27-2009, 08:19 PM
Got to love a cut and run every now and then. I cleaned up a big beach the wind tipped over the other day. Just as I was going to top it I switched sides just didn't look right from were I stood. Glad I did got the top free of the trunk and it swung straight away from me ten feet fast!!!! She was loaded for bear. From the other side I'd been all done!!!! Lot of people don't think about the spring trees have when there one the ground or when they hit the ground. Seen a big top oak fall clean of the stump when the top hit it shoot straight back 15-20 feet just from the top linbs acting like a spring. Nothing like a thousand pounds of tree shooting by you to make you think you just cheated death.

3rdgen.maple
12-27-2009, 08:34 PM
When I get a tree that is a little hairy to cut down wether it is leaning standing dead or what have you I take the saw and plunge it into the tree tip first. Watch the sawdust and if cutting gets easier as you go. You can judge fairly quickly wether the tree is solid or has rot and if so how deep into the tree it is. Some knowledge on species helps out alot too. Beech are notorious for internal rot and being hollow Oak not so much it usually rots outside in. I had a hard maple split right down the middle from a storm a good 36 inch or better base on it. One half leaning at the sugarhouse the other the opposite direction. It took some time sitting there and planning things out and also waiting for a day with no wind. No way to hinge cut that one section leaning at the sugarhouse until the opposite side came down. Things went like I wanted and was nervous about the sugarhouse as well. After that exursion I decided block and tackle would have been a better choice. But hey it is done. Chainsaws and trees are nothing to joke around about. Please be safe.

Bucket Head
12-27-2009, 08:43 PM
What situation is called a "barber chair"?

Steve

3rdgen.maple
12-27-2009, 08:54 PM
When the darn tree breaks up the trunk partway through the cut and leaves the tree broken over severl feet above your head. Just like looking at a chair. The seat is where you cut and the back is where the tree split and imagine at the top of the back of the chair the rest of the tree angled down towards the ground. Hope that makes since cause I think I cinfused myself.

red maples
12-27-2009, 09:06 PM
a barber chair is when the trunk of the tree splits in half as the tree falls. sorta like a see/saw the hits the cutter it happens really fast.

I did take a roofing hammer "staight claw" and peeled off the bark and took a feww wacks at it to make sure it was solid. and as I was cutting it Could tell it solid so I felt better as cut.

gator330
12-27-2009, 09:14 PM
If your lucky your looking at a chair if not it cought you in the chin and took your head clean off!!!!

C.Wilcox
12-28-2009, 10:02 AM
I cut a large branch (8" diam) off of a big bur oak a few years back that almost did me in. I was working out of a bucket on a boom that was extended as far as it could go due to the unlevel nature of the ground where we were working. I made the bottom cut in the branch, but when I started to make the top cut to drop the branch I realized I'd judged the weight balance of the branch wrong and instead of rolling away from us and falling it started to roll right into the bucket. Being that there were two of us in the bucket and the branch was big and full of leaves I have no doubt we would have been over the weight limit and all I could see in my mind was that boom collapsing to the ground 25 feet down. Luckily the other guy in the bucket, my brother who is a really big man, was paying attention and was able to shove it clear before the full weight came to bear. I couldn't do anything but stand there holding the saw as tight as possible and even though the branch fell out of the bucket it still raked me pretty good as it went down. I wore a nice road rash reminder of my mistake on my left arm for the next couple of weeks.

lpakiz
12-28-2009, 10:17 AM
The chainsaw sftey course I took several times recommends cutting a 70 degree or larger open face notch. Then, plunge cut up to the closest point you want to get to your "hinge". When all is in order, snip the last bit of wood on the outside of the tree, which is still holding. As the saw breaks out and the tree starts to move, make for your (pre-planned) escape route.
This plunge cut works really well. I practice it on all cuts, just to stay fammiliar with the technique. BE SAFE!!

Logscaler
12-28-2009, 02:23 PM
The cut Larry mentions is the bore cut taught in Game of logging. I highly recommend that anyone who falls trees take this course. It is taught to professionals as well as part-timers. Google "Game of Logging" to find a class in your area and take it. If none are available near you have your state maple association sponsor one. You will be far safer and more confident in your tree falling. Fear and hurrying will hurt you or kill you - fact!!! I know too many guys from my sawmill days who were hurt or worse while doing what they do every day. Take the course, get some safety equipment if you don't already have any - chaps and a helmet especially! Live to boil another year!

maple flats
12-28-2009, 07:01 PM
I took Game of Logging 1 & 2, but that was long after my incident with that red maple almost costing me a hug sum. Now with GOL and lots of experience, I hope I would recognise the hazard but I am not entirely sure because of the way it looked ok. I however would have cut the notch at close to 90 degrees open face and done a plunge cut. At that time I would have known it was rotten inside if it wasn't too late already to do something about it.

lpakiz
12-28-2009, 09:54 PM
Please forgive me for mentioning this again, but:
Use this bore cut method on all your EASY trees, and you will be more confident when you get to a tough one...

red maples
12-29-2009, 01:09 PM
I will try that.

I looked into the the logging game classes but the have nothing listed after november of '09 probably start up again in the spring after maple season.

saphead
01-01-2010, 08:22 PM
Take "the Game Of Logging" if @ all possible.Best $ I ever spent.I had to wait a year but it was worth it.Our class was very fortunate as we all wanted to do level 4 and the instructor was happy to oblige.Level 4 was all about the difficult and dangerous trees.One little tidbit we learned was that most accidents don't happen @ the end of the day but @ late morning just before lunch,low blood sugar many times = bad judgment.Take the class,take your time and be safe!