PDA

View Full Version : For those with a 2x6 Patrick Phaneuf raised flue



heus
12-08-2009, 07:05 PM
Does anyone have pics of the way you bricked your arch? Patrick showed me but it seems like the slanted wall is way too far back. The metal ramp that he welded in goes all the way to the middle of the flue pan. He told me to make my wall there. With this being the case, I could fit a 36" piece of wood in there. Seems like the ramp should start at the end of the grates, which are 24"

3rdgen.maple
12-08-2009, 11:05 PM
My dropflue ramp from him starts after the grates and ends up at about center of the flue pan and it works pretty darn good. He built the thing he should know so I would follow his instructions.

caseyssugarshack93
12-09-2009, 06:50 AM
since you have a raise flue you need to put a wall of bricks

3rdgen.maple
12-09-2009, 10:25 AM
Yeah it almost sounds like he makes one standard arch and then the wall has to be built for the raised flue. Drop flue all you have to do is brick the ramp. Should be easy enough though.

backyardsugarer
12-09-2009, 12:29 PM
How much are Patrick's 2x6 or 2 x 8 rigs? I like the look of them.

Chris

heus
12-09-2009, 06:46 PM
casey,
That's what I was thinking.
3rdgen,
There are 2 "ramps", 1 from the actual outside of the arch, then a 2nd welded closer to the grates (but still at least 12" behind them) with a shelf at the bottom to hold the bricks.
backyardsugarer,
I paid $4500 with approx $600 extra for bricks, a stainless roof jack, ceramic blanket, anf 3 gal of mortar, and also $250 for shipping
I was surprised that the stainless stack pipe came with a rain cover

3rdgen.maple
12-09-2009, 06:50 PM
I', not to sure about building a wall straight up Hues. I think you want the ramp to direct the flames up into the flues. How did Patrick tell you to do it?

heus
12-09-2009, 07:40 PM
3rdgen,
Patrick told me to lay the bricks right on the ramp. But the ramp begins way behind the grates and the top ends in the middle of the flue pan bottom. Everything I read on here seems to say that only the first few iches of the flue should be exposed to the firebox.

heus
12-09-2009, 07:47 PM
Patrick just emailed me and sent me a sketch (although I couldn't see it). He re-affirmed what he said when he showed me Sunday: Lay the bricks on the ramp. Fill from there with vermiculite, then make a wall out in front of the stack.

3rdgen.maple
12-09-2009, 11:12 PM
Well the man designed it he must know. Funny thing is when I seen the ramp in my drop I thought it ended too far back in the flues myself. But I thought hey what the heck do I know so I layed the brick like he said. If my rig boiled any harder there would be no sap left in the pans. It splashes all over the place and over the sides now.

heus
12-10-2009, 12:29 PM
3rdgen,
Yes, I will go with what Patrick told me to do. Thanks

3rdgen.maple
12-10-2009, 10:04 PM
I understand your thought process Hues and would of questioned it myself. Everything you read says to do it different but I don't think every arch boils the same either. Worse case scenario is change it around in the off season if you think you can improve on it. After all that is part of the fun as well. Good luck bricking it and I et you cannot wait for sap. If you could keep track of your average GPH I am curious to see if there is a difference between Paticks drop and raised flue evaporation rates. I plan on trading mine back to Patrick for a 3x8 after the season is over. It is hard to pass up the trade in price towards a new one.

heus
12-11-2009, 07:02 AM
3rdgen,
I didn't realize he took trade-ins. Hmmm, maybe I'll upgrade in a few years.

3rdgen.maple
12-11-2009, 08:04 AM
Yes sir he says he gets calls daily for used ones and would be glad to do it. He gave me a rough estimate and I think I will make out better than selling it directly. But who knows there maybe hidden cost there somewhere. But he has always treated me very well and it would save me the hassle of finding a buyer.