Milk tank fittings ???

[Dennis H.]

Here is a quick question for you, I have a 200gal milk tank that has a vlave on the outlet. the tank side of the valve has what I think is called a tri-clove clamp or something like that. It is 1 1/2". The other end of the valve has some othe type of thread. I get a large nut with a block of plate with it.

SO what and how do I attach say 1" pvc pipe to the outlet. I haven't been able to find anything that fits the treading. I was thinking that I should just take the valve off and get a fitting that goes right in the 1 1/2" tri-clove on the tank.

[tuckermtn]

I use a no-hub connector over the flared fitting on the tank end- the ones you see at the hardware store that have a hose clamp on either end, made out of black rubber- some are designed to reduce in size, so you should be able to get that 1 1/2" to drop down to 1".

I think they are called fernco couplers

[3rdgen.maple]

Dennis I don't know if you have any Tractor Supply Company (TSC) stores around you but they have alot of milk tank fittings. They had everything I needed to fit my milk tank. Including the what I think you are describing as camlocks. Bascom's carries a line of the stuff as well. Here is a link to the fittings http://www.bascommaple.com/store/index.php?cat=35&offset=12 if they are what I am thinking.

[maplehound]

I have taken all my blank ends to a fabricator, who drilled them out and attached a 1" nipple to them. some of them did crack at the welds though. I was told that the density of the blank is hard to weld to and the fact that they are SS makes it even more difficult. Most of the ones that cracked I fixed with JB Weld but the last one the neighbor took it home and silver soldered it. It works better than any of them.

[3rdgen.maple]

Maplehound I was contemplating getting a pipe tap and threading the inside of mine to take a conventional fitting until I found everything at TSC. I still think it would of worked out fine. JB weld on a sap tank, I think I would replace that with solder. That stuff is awesome but it is a chemical based compound.

[Dennis H.]

The fitting that is part of the tank isn't threaded at all, it is a flat surface that a flat rubber washer goes against which then the valve goes against. There is a clamp that goes around this joint and holds them together.
The threaded part is on the none tank side of the valve. I am not sure of the thread size of thread count.

I do like the idea of the black rubber fitting, I have seen those at Lowes and HD, just never thought of them until it was mentioned here.

The CamLoc's would be great, quick and simple, are the threads on them compatable with?

If I get a chance when I get home I will take a pic and post it here.

[PATheron]

Dennis- All Ive ever done is use the fernco connectors too and they work great. A lot of the tanks take the two inch size I think and what I do is threadtape the threads like crazy and slide the fernco on and clamp it where the threads are and then the other end goes right to the 1.5 pvc then you can do anything you want. I usually do that and then put an inch and a half ball valve right at the tank and all set. Ive actually never had one leak yet and its quick and cheap. Theron

[KenWP]

I use ferncos up to 12 inchs and they work great. I would say a two inch one would be cheaper by a long shot.

[maplemat1]

tahe an 1.25 hose barb to pipe fitting the plastic ones . heat it up with a torch and take a rubber matel and tap it into the bulk tank fitting . then you can thread any fittting on the other end .this has worked great for me.

[3rdgen.maple]

Dennis the setup you described is the same as mine and the camlocks are what clamps onto it. I really like the fact that with two quick pulls of the cams the pipe is off and in my hand. I don't have to get a screwdriver and loosen any hose clamps or unscrew a pipe. Quick and simple and makes for a faster cleanup. I had the rubber fernco adapter on it before I switched it over. It worked fine like that but a pain to remove and clean.

[brookledge]

You definately have tri clover. If you don't want to go the route of a fernco then one other option is to cut the pipe and then weld it to a stainless fitting.
I took a stainless pipe thread coupling and it was a snug fit into one side of the coupling and then I had it welded with stainless mig wire.
I welded mine because it was on a large tank and I wanted to be sure nobody would accidently knock of a rubber conection.
Keith

[Dennis H.]

Here is a few pics of the fittings.

I either get a fitting that allows me to connect right to the tank then goto hose or I use the valve then do like you all say and use the black rubber adapter to goto the 1" pvc pipe.

I just can't seem the find anything out there that will thread right up to the valve.

[3rdgen.maple]

Man did i misunderstand you on this one. Sorry bout that. I thought you were looking for the connector that goes directly on the tank. Pictures sure makes it clearer. Well it is too bad you cannot get the right fitting to go on there. Personnaly I would put the valve on there first, that way you can shut the flow off and allow the lines to drain so they do not freeze at night. Get the rubber connector and put your mind at ease on this one but keep an eye out for the right connector while in your travels.

[brookledge]

Like I said you have tri-clover fittings if you do a search you can find something or contact a dairy supply store.
Here is one company that popped up when I did a search
https://www.jmesanitary.com/category/11/1/Reducers.aspx
Good luck
Keith

[brookledge]

Here is another one but is very pricey. I think you are best off looking for a used adapter from a dairy supply company or contact dairy farms to see if they have anything hanging around
http://www.hosexpress.com/sanitary/adapter.htm
Keith

[Dennis H.]

Thanks Brookledge Ilooked up the 1st link you gave me a few posts back, I couldn't find the fitting on their website and I asked for a catalog so I will look at that when and if it comes to the house.

Thanks for these other links I will look at them.