Board and Batten Questions

[SeanD]

Is there a preferred/ideal size for board and batten siding to get a nice "look"? I was thinking 10" boards and 2" battens. I am planning on using rough cut lumber, so I'm guessing the sizes stay pretty true.

I've read I should leave a 1/8" gap for expansion between boards, but I've also read 1/2". Any recommendations?

Finally, I've read nailing the battens to the furring strips and not the boards allows for expansion and reduces splitting. I've also read that the battens should be nailed directly to the boards. Any recommendations?

Thanks in advance,
Sean

[Maplewalnut]

Sean,

I did 10 and 12 inch boards with 3 inch battens. As far as a gap to leave, depends on what wood you are using. I used rough cut I sawed myself and it had air dried a year or so. I butted the boards right up to each other. I nailed the boards in the center about 2-3 inches apart. That allows the sides to move a little without nails holding them. The battens I nailed in the groove (again no gap) between the boards, never nail battens thru the boards into your furring strips. I experimnted with galvanized spiral nails in some and deck screws in others-to date no difference

Only two years old but not one board has popped.

Good Luck
Mike

[michelle32]

I've done a few sheds with batton. I think the best look is to go with 10's and 8's. Nail to the boards and keep it tight. You will find even though your wood is fairly the same measurements it is not very staight. As you go check your distance left and ajust acordingly. You can check the crown on the boards and put them outward to prevent the boards from curling out on the ends.
Keith

[mapleack]

My sugarhouse and workshop is board and batten with 9 to 10 inch boards and 3 inch batttens. The boards were green when we put them up. We put them tight together and then let them dry for a month before we put on the the battens. The boards shrunk enough to create 1/8 to 1/4" gaps. We then nailed the battens to the boards. I've never noticed any problems with splitting, the workshop's been sided that way for 10 years.
-Andy

[forester1]

I put the boards butted to each other on all my buildings. They will shrink apart, that's the purpose of the battens, to cover the crack. I've built 6 this way so far over 30 years. Some were built with green wood, others kiln or air dried. I used regular nails early and switched to galvanised to prevent rust streaking. Usually I just get random width since it's cheaper and more available here and go with that, ripping 2" battens on a table saw. If you like regularity then get all the same size. Sometimes I can get 4" lumber cheap and go with that for battens. It's pretty much what your taste, availability and finances allow. Also I never stained my buildings. As long as you have a good roof it's not needed. It will fade and darken but I personally prefer that. There are many unstained or unpainted barns well over 100 years old still standing with good siding.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

I used rough cut 5/8" x 8" boards and did my sugarhouse in lap siding. I used stainless ring shank nails because over time, all others including galvanized will streak in the boards.

Also, the boards are probably less likely to work loose with ring shank nails.

[Greg Morin]

8 or 10 inch boards are good I would nail on one side of the batten only not to both boards so batten doesnt crack.

[SeanD]

I talked to the guy at the sawmill today and he also recommended nailing one side of the batten. Thanks for all the tips!

Sean

[forester1]

As far as galvanized nails streaking, I haven't seen it yet after 25 years. They might in the future but the boards are already gray. Stainless will hold out longer of course but will rust eventually too. You have to look at the overall cost and decide if it's worth it. For the absolute best in rust streaking prevention, go with solid gold nails.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

The stainless ring shank nails on ebay aren't too expensive and 1 lb goes a long ways as there are a lot of nails in a lb. I bought mine from Anchor nail company a few years ago and I believe they are a New England company if memory serves me right as I bought them on ebay and they were great to deal with.

[lpakiz]

We built a house in 1976 with rough sawn ceder and battens placed vertically . We used galvanized twist nails. They streaked very black (several inches) by the 3rd year, while the wood was still almost the same color as when sawed.We had to use semi-transparent stain and even then it didn't completely hide the streaks. Use the stainless nails if possible.

[3rdgen.maple]

Don't know if there is much truth behind it but an oldtimer told me once not to use galvanized nails with cedar cause of staining. Something about cedar having a reaction with galvanized nails.