3hp Elec motor bearing replacing

[HazensNotchSugarShack]

I reciently "got a deal" :lol: on a 3hp delaval motor that seems to need the bearing replaced on the pulley side. Anyone ever replace one similiar to this. Bearing sounded dry with a thump when spun by hand. I greased it and spun by hand and grease was coming out near shaft. Does anyone know if the red button is supposed to be a start button. If so mine is stuck.:o The motor was attached to a Delaval 76. Rick

[Fred Henderson]

The red but is an overlaod. If up overload the motor the red button will pop out. In that case you will have to let it cool for a while. Then push it back in and the motor should start. You should not attempt that bearing replacement yourself if you did not know what that red button was for.

[brookledge]

Like Fred said if you are not familiar with motors then you might be better off having some one who is do the work. If you split the housing you need to pay attention to the brushes. They are spring loaded. Are you sure the bearing is bad? It might be worth it to take it to a repair shop and ask for an estimate. They can tell you if the bearing is bad or not.
The red button is a thermal switch and should only pop when it is being overloaded causing it to overheat
Keith

[KenWP]

First of all I would like to know the make of the motor. I do not believe DeLaval actually made their own motors but maybe they did. I just happen to have spent many years fixing electic motors with these kind of problems. Some are easy some are hard and some have stupid metric bearings which can be a pain to find sometimes. If you replace the bearings do both sides if it has them on both ends of the armature not much sense taking one apart and doing one bearing and they are not to bad in price.

[Fred Henderson]

Both bearing have gone the same distance. It is usually the pulley side that goes first because that is where the most physcial load is.

[3rdgen.maple]

I replace motor bearings often on equipment for work. If you take the bearing out and take it to a bearing dealer ( i use Kaman Bearing) or even to a motor repair shop they can cross reference the numbers on the race or mic it to get you the proper replacement. When you take it apart and if you are carefull all you have to do is remove the end journal and never have to pull the armature apart. Now comes the hard part. Once you put the journal back together it will bind the motor. These are put on with precision. You can generically manipulate it and torq the screws down to get the motor spinning without binding but it is tedious. Tighten the screws a little at a time and just like a car tire tightening pattern. If you have never done it run it down to a shop and let them put them in. The cost might be worth the effort.

[HazensNotchSugarShack]

Fred I agree the pulley side does most of the work and because of the load on it it heats up more than the other bearing and we all know that heat and lack of grease causes bearing failure.
3rdgen That is the info I was looking for. I was hoping to take the end journal off the pulley end then press out the old bearing. Never dawned on me that a reset button would be on the electrical box and not directly on the motor. (first dairy motor I have encountered). Ken I am sure you are correct that Delaval did not make the motor. Only put their name on it. The long term plan for this motor is as a backup. Life experiences have shown me that after I take this one apart and fix it I will have more knowledge when I need to fix another one.
Chuck !!!! no coment!!
Rick