Roof Jacks and Collars

[bison1973]

I'm just curious if all who have steam hoods use the roof jacks when putting the steam stacks through the roof? If so, do you use a rain collar as well?

Peviously I had the steam from the hoods go through a cupola I put in before I had steam hoods. I've since added hoods and want to finish off the sugarhouse the right way.

I am using the roof jack and rain collar for the smoke stack.

Tim

[red maples]

I have a copula but, it would make sense to use roof flashing and a storm collar or it will leak when it rains or when the snow melts around it. espeically if the hood stack is off center then even if there is a metal roof the the snow will still build up the upper side of the stack...thats what I would do anyway just be safe. just my 2 cents

[Jeff E]

Yes, I used oversized roof jacks for the steam vents. For the 6" front pan stack I used a 7" roof jack, and the 10" flue pan stack has a 11" jack. This makes it easy to run the stack up through the jack at the start of the season, install the storm collar which covers the slight gap. At the end of the season I pull the stack out and cap the roof jacks with plastic buckets with a brick on top. Keeping the weather and bugs out.

[NH Maplemaker]

bison1973, do a search on (roof jacks and stack covers) there are some good ideas there on your problem! Hope this helps Jim L.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

Jeff,

I do the plastic bucket cover at the end of the season and I was always afraid to put something like a brick up there in the event we got an extremely high wind, it would blow it off onto the roof. I have always took black electrical tape and ran it over the bucket a couple of times and down on the stack a couple of feet. Then, when season starts, the tape pulls right off of both the bucket and the stack. I bought a piece of all thread and am going to install it this week as I have a 10" steam stack and my roof jack is 11". My steam stack is about 1 to 2 inches higher than the roof jack and I built a lift for my hood, so I am going to drill thru each side of the bucket and put the all thread thru the bucket and the stack and a nut and washer on each side. This will allow me to lift the stack up or down without having to worry about removing the bucket and it will keep it secure and just take a minute or so to unbolt it and remove the bucket come syrup season.

[bobsklarz]

OK, I have a question and this looks like the place to ask it. I'm gonna be getting my new 2x6 Leader evaporator soon. Where the chimney goes through the roof, do I use a roof jack or could I use a section of double wall chimney? How does the roof jack work.? Does the stainless pipe just go through it, and how does that keep the chimney away from combustibles? Which is cheaper if both are equally safe? Thanks for any input!

[brookledge]

On mine the style I went with was the stack from my arch wedged up into the roof jack and then on top of the roof jack you just start adding section on top of it. The jack is constructed with a slight taper to it so the stack coming up from the bottom will wedge into it. Then as I said the top you just start putting sections of satack on again.
You need to tell the manufactuer what the pitch of the roof is and whether is is through the peak or just on the slope.
I would not ever go back to not using one again.
Before I had one I had galv. stack and even though I had the stack sealed off pretty good with high temp silicone it would eventually seep down the side. Which if you have galv. stack that has had the coating burned off spells disaster for rusting out quickly
Keith

[Jeff E]

Using class A is preferred in my opinion. Roof Jack installations provide decent clearances to combustables, but it is still single walled steel. On mine, I have a 14" chimney going into a 32" wide space. I lined the opening with dry wall, then Arch Board insulation.

If could have afforded the class A 14" install I would have done that.