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jimjan
03-29-2009, 09:59 AM
Any interest in submitting sketches of homemade designs, in order to create engineered drawings of your work? I'm a toolmaker by trade, and currently designing injection molds in Pro/Engineer - one of the major 3D design software packages. I recently joined the discussion group, and honestly didn't know what an "arch" was until I was set on the path of knowledge by this group. Thanks to all!

Without knowing what it was called, I built an arch out of cement blocks and a 2 x 2 pan this year. It worked, but...... I'm looking to build my own "improved" arch and divided pans this summer, for next years season. I've looked over the pictures in most of the posts, but there doesn't seem to be any "standard" designs, and I can't seem to find any drawings. If anyone is interested in posting their "napkin" sketches of their "old oil tank" or 55 gallon drum designs, I would be willing to redraw them in CAD and make them available for all. I plan on creating a Bill Of Materials and assembly drawings. That way when maple noobs like me show up, they can simply look at the drawings and have a good understanding of what it takes to make their own evaporator. If someone comes up with improvements to the standard design, I can update the drawings. I would benefit from the knowledge of the group, and the group can benefit from having documentation of that knowledge. Please let me know if there is any interest!

b_mclarty
03-29-2009, 11:04 AM
Hi jimjan:

My story is very similar... Made some syrup up at camp this year and enjoyed it a lot, I would like to build a oil tank evaporator for next year but, after lurking around MapleTrader for a week or two, I can't find much in the way of drawings in the forums.

I'm a high school shop teacher and teach ProEngineer (schools edition) to my students. I've been thinking that this would be an excellent ProE Assembly project for some of my students.

If you get any "napkin sketches", would you consider sharing them? Maybe we could create some ProE part files for the project.

TTYL
Barry

DavyJones
03-30-2009, 06:43 AM
I drew up detailed plans in 3D using Google Sketchup. This is not an oil tank one but a standard design. Take a look.

My evaporator plans (http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=49beef89200472b14b1caddec242e4d5&prevstart=0)

A couple of people have built this same evaporator from my plans and have had great success as hav I. This year I was probably boiling down 8 gallons per hour when I would pay attention and keep it stoked up and hot all the time. There is a link on that site to actual photos of me building the stove and it in action. Good luck let me know if you have any questions you can email me direct or call me on the phone.

David



P.S. I worked at Gluco for a spell they built injection molding machines here in PA.

NH Maplemaker
03-30-2009, 07:34 AM
I would personally like to see this happen for our new backyard friends that come here in hopes of finding just such a set of plans ! We all started small and climb the maple ladder! Great idea!!! Jim L.

RileySugarbush
03-30-2009, 08:19 AM
With a lot of respect for those that have made beautiful and functional barrel and oil tank evaporators, I have to suggest the alternative of scratch building an arch from angle steel and sheet metal. I made one, not much different than DavyJones, and it was easy, there are no curved surfaces to deal with and I can boil 40+ gph on it with the blower. If you are to weld any way, straight and flat steel is much easier to deal with than old tanks and barrels. Here is a photo before I attached the sheet metal with self tapping screws and high temp sealant.

C.Wilcox
03-30-2009, 08:30 AM
Riley,

I can't tell from the photo, does your arch slant up as it reaches the back of your drop flues or did you keep it level?

Corey

RileySugarbush
03-30-2009, 09:47 AM
Must be something funny about the photo.

The arch rails are level and flat for the full length. Each leg has hex bolts for leveling the arch if necessary.

C.Wilcox
03-30-2009, 01:00 PM
Could just be my eyes for that matter. If you don't mind my asking, how much space was left between your arch and the bottom of your flues once you put your insulating layer in?

RileySugarbush
03-30-2009, 01:37 PM
About a half inch. Since this photo I added insulation to the sides to bring the side clearance on the outer flues to around 1".

moeh1
03-31-2009, 12:08 PM
Riley,
I'm looking at the homemade angle iron arch approach myself. Yours looks plenty nice! What size angle did you use?
My secondquestion is the drop pan, I haven't seen one of these up close. How does the liquid down in the flues progress to the second pan? I understand how a raised flue empties into the second pan. Am I missing something?
The other question is regarding the galvanized sides. Did you inset them inside the angle iron frame, or attach to the outside?
Thanks

bradley153
04-09-2009, 08:44 PM
so I have just downloaded the plans and Im going to start collecting materials little by little untill its complete. I really appreciate the time and effort that everyone ahs put in to this for us "do it yourselfers"

Thanks again

PARKER MAPLE
04-20-2009, 07:22 PM
About a half inch. Since this photo I added insulation to the sides to bring the side clearance on the outer flues to around 1".

just wondered how you bet your flues up. and are they out of one piece?? thanks

RileySugarbush
04-20-2009, 11:39 PM
looks like I'm a little behind on some questions.

Moeh1

All of my angle is pretty light, 1.25 x.125. It was very easy to work with and weld and is more than strong enough. All of the framing angles are 90° so it was just cut and weld. I skinned it over cold rolled 16 gage sheet (not galvanized), attached with self tapping screws the 1 x .125 flats. Caulked with high temp silicone. Since the inside is well insulated the joints don't even get very hot at all. The front is heavier, .12 thick with a cast door from a barrel stove kit. To be replaced with a home made airtight before next season. Right.

After 3 years I still haven't painted it. I think I want to stove black it with lamp black and linseed oil like an old train locomotive. Seems like the right thing to do and maybe I will get around to it this summer. Right.


maple rookie:

The flues you see were factory made by Dominion and Grimm. I wish I could bend and weld thin stainless like that!

moeh1
04-21-2009, 05:57 AM
John,
Thanks for the reply, I'm in no real hurry, it wil be awhile before I start. I appreciate the input, I was at the steel store looking at 1-1/2 3/16 angle, so maybe I can scale back one notch.
I looked at the barrel doors as an easy already-done front, some are listed as gasketed and airtight, is your doing OK? What is driving you to replace it?

RileySugarbush
04-21-2009, 08:33 AM
My cast barrel kit door is not even close to tight. I glued in some gasket rope that helps, but it is like a blow torch when the blower is on. I am going to weld up a tight, insulated door that overlaps and seals against the front.