Pre Heater Project

[tessiersfarm]

Now Building a pre heater and hood for my 2x6 homemade evaporator. Priced factory units at well over $1000.00, which is out of my range. Hood will be Aluminum with drip channel all the way around and a center channel under the stack and pre heater. Pre heater is parallel flow with feed line on bottom and homemade float valve off of top along with steam vent. 48' of 1/2" copper line into 3/4" manifolds on each end. Float valve is all brass and copper parts with lead free solder. All parts are for domestic water supplies. My biggest concern right now is how the boiling is going to effect the float. Only 1 way to find out I guess.

[Bucket Head]

It's better to have the float out of the boiling sap. It is hard to adjust and regulate the sap because of the boiling.

Also, if you fuel it inconsistantly, and your boil is hard, then slow, it will be hard to regulate.

Steve

[Haynes Forest Products]

I always like to see what others are thinking looks good. What did you clean it out with. The guy I work with would kick my but if I didnt wipe my joints. Bucket head has a valid concern about trying to keep a steady flow with sap boiling around it and causing a wave action. What you might try is a steam pan just for the float area and cut small holes in the bottom so the waves dont get it to surging.
You can get deep pans and if your in the mood you can always mount one on the outside and cut a hole between the two it will guage the level of the flue pan. Keep the pictures coming.
you might be a little long on the lever looks like it might have to travel 2-3" before you get valve action. Did tou make the valve seat?

[tessiersfarm]

I did make the valve seat and I don't believe it will shut off completely. I think it will run either a little or a lot. I will have a valve on the outside to manually shut it off. I plan to add a float box to the outside but it ain't gonna happen this year, too busy at work and not enough time. If I have to I will regulate with the valve, which is what I did last year. I can cut down the lever quite easily, I left it long because it isn't so easy to add on. I have not cleaned the joints yet but I plan to run some of the pan cleaner through it and then rinse it with hot water for a while. I have a line off of my boiler with 180 deg water, too hot for domestic but great for washing. It is a 27"x76" evaporator with 4' flue pan and 26" finishing pan, do you think I have enough tubing or will I need to add more? Plans from UVM called for 20' of 3/4" at 50 GPM through 6 tubes, which didn't seam like much. I went 48' of 1/2" through 3 tubes hoping for 30 or so GPM.

[Brent]

compared to the preheater on my 6 x 2 with a 4 ft flue pan, I think you've got more tube length than mine. You're only likely to boil 30 to 50 gallons an hour so you should have no problems with the flow rate.

[Haynes Forest Products]

I dont see the inlet pipe (you did put one on didnt you) I would put some strong cleaner to get ALL flux out. You need to get the outside cleaner than ever ..remember your evap is going to STEAM CLEAN it into the sap.

[tessiersfarm]

It does have an inlet pipe 3/4" going into the bottom mainifold on the far side. I was planning on using the pan cleaner that I bought for the pans and make a solution and fill the pre heater and let it set for a while then flush it with hot water for a while to clean the inside. As for the outside I was planning on scrubbing it with an sos pad and then soaking the entire preheater in a solution of the pan cleaner and then hose it down with hot water. I would think that would take care of anything that needed cleaning.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

Just make sure you have a way to drain it completely at the end of the boil as copper will freeze and bust really fast.

[tessiersfarm]

Got my hood together today and it looks good, the sap feed pipe is on the wrong side but a couple of elbows and a piece of pipe will fix that. It is going to have a drain valve at the sap feed line inlet which is the low point.

Back to the float box. I have a couple of stainless steel mud pans for holding joint compound while taping sheetrock. I am thinking about putting one of these on with a close nipple and some Rubber O rings, until I can get it welded properly. My float fits in it almost perfect. What do you guys think?

[Mackdaddy]

That's some serious copper my friend. Boy, big jump from last year though, huh. Looks great, hope you have a ball. We are approx 1/2 through our season here, disappointed in even admitting it.

[Dill]

I was looking at your album, where did you get the pot with the drain tap? Or did you make it yourself. Pretty much exactly what I'm looking for.

[tessiersfarm]

16 quart stock pot with fitting from brewers supply and valve from local hardware store. I also have a 32 quart stainless turkey pot with the same fitting and valve. I use them for finishing and bottling.

[Haynes Forest Products]

TF:I like the way your thinking. Are they the welded ones? The only drawback is the taper. Not to steal your thunder but what about the deep steam table pans? They do make them deep and about the same size plus they have stright sides and you could use the lip to mount it to the flue pan lip.

[tessiersfarm]

Yes it is welded, I already have it and the float fits in it so I think the tapered sides will work OK I am very busy on the farm with other stuff so this is a last ditch effort to "improve". I am half inclined to just run a ball valve on the preheater like last year, although it takes a lot more attention. I'm not even sure I will get the preheater on before I have to boil.

I got into a new line of bull calves and I think I bit off more than I can chew. More than one end of that candle I can burn.

[Dill]

16 quart stock pot with fitting from brewers supply and valve from local hardware store. I also have a 32 quart stainless turkey pot with the same fitting and valve. I use them for finishing and bottling.

Ok sorry for making this thread go in so many directions, do you have a link for the fitting and how hard was it to install? Like I said I've been trying to figure out how to do this but plumbing is not my strong point. Its right down there with finish carpentry.

[Jerome]

dill I used the fill valve for a stock tank and changed the float to copper instead of the plastic that came with it.

[tessiersfarm]

http://www.homebrewery.com/beer/beer-valves-fittings.shtml

Drill a hole and thread in the pieces. It is actually up off the bottom a 1/2" or so because of the shape of the pot. Instructions are good.

[KenWP]

This might sound dumb but what would happen if a guy welded in a large SS container a 6 inch tube through the middle and attached it in the middle of the smoke stack right close the the bottom. Would a guy get enough heat transfer that way. A gas water heater uses the same principle on a larger scale. Also is there a source for 6 inch SS pipe that is not to heavy a gauge. I have to much time on my hands its seems to think.

[Haynes Forest Products]

If you had a section of doubble wall flue pipe from a gas stove they have a SS liner in them. Nice and light weight. I thought SS was a rare thing up in your neck of the woods?