homemade float box and float

[cshaw]

Also attempting to make homemade float box and float. Welcome any
and all ideas and tricks.

[jrthe3]

i built a stainless box used this valve http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2X525 and this float http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2UV53 i weilded a stainless 3/4 pipe coupler in the one end of box at the top threaded the valve into the end inside the box and treaded the feed line in the other end then hooked box to my back pan

[Haynes Forest Products]

Cshaw: What size pans are we talking. I like the pond fill valve some are using for small rigs dosent get any easer than that. Like Jrthe3 has pictured. I would think that you might need a valve in line just to smooth it out a little

[HHM-07]

what are the pond fill valves ??? do you have any photos of them or where we can find them on the web ??

Dick

[Haynes Forest Products]

They are just like the one Jrthe3 listed from Granger but smaller 1/4 to 3/8 NPT. I like jrthe3s better it has the SS float and 3/4 thread. I wonder if they act like toilet float that will start surging and set up a wave affect.

[cshaw]

running a 2 x 4 drop flue and 2 x 2 syrup pan. Would the ss float from Grainger be too big for the size rig ? Thank you for the links and info.

[tessiersfarm]

I am looking at building my own float valve with some stainless fittings and a lever arrangment. I figure if it leaks by a little it won't hurt anything as long as the evaporator keeps up. I will put a ball valve in above the float valve to shut it down when I close down for the night. I am going to use a small stainless kettle for the float, I will just have to make sure it stays empty.

[jrthe3]

i would use a gate valve i have had ball valve freeze and blow apart that is a nice mess to walk into the sugar house and see that the 50 gals in the haed tank from the night befor is all on the floor

[maple flats]

I would think the valve shown would not regulate very closley. That type has a good amount of travel before it opens or closes. The float should be good as long as it fits into the float box. Any float valve I have seen used by avaporator companies is extremely simple and accurate. Try making your own. Just have the end of a supply pipe coming straight down into the float box and hinge an arm with a shallow cup with a soft rubber gasket inside push up against the pipe and control it with a float. Make the arm long enough to get some leverage. Make your float arm adjustable to vary depth. Presto, sounds easy. This type will be very accurate, as the level drops slightly the float lowers with the sap level and adds as needed. Your other type valve I think will have a 1/2" or greater fluxuation and when it add there will be a rush of sap then it will shut off. Kind of like a toilet with a leaky flapper. The add water cycles.

[Bucket Head]

Go get a Roberts valve. Any dedicated plumbing supply will have them. Don't bother asking at Lowe's or Home Depot, they'll be clueless.

I use these on all my float boxes.

I will try to get a photo of one up this weekend, but I can't promise it.

Steve

[Bucket Head]

cshaw,

I posted some pictures of my homemade flue pan float box and Roberts valve. I made the float rod also. It hooks up to a modern style Leader float. The type with the round shaft with the adjustable (thumbscrew)collar.

Steve

[Haynes Forest Products]

Bucket head: Is this the first year with the preheater? I had a tray like that under one of my first preheaters and the steam didnt swirl around it much. If you dont get the heat you want I would angle the preheater up and make the drip tray smaller. I only got the sap up to about 80 degrees.