Flue Pan Distribution Modifications

[Amber Gold]

I have a distribution box in my flue pan and the three nipples that the pipes connect to need to be resoldered. I’d just as soon not have a distribution box and just have a piped system. There were two ways I was thinking about doing this. Provided all the fittings match up, connect a 1” T where the float box enters the flue pan. Bring a pipe out of one branch of the T to the front of the flue pan and out of the other branch go over to the other end of the flue pan. There were two methods I was considering to change which pipe the sap is entering the flue pan. One method was to plug the end of the pipe. One concern I had was that I’d create syrup in that section of the pipe. Would this be the case? The other method I thought of, which I like better, is to install 1” ball valves at the branches of the T. I’d close off the one I’m not using. I wasn’t sure if there was any concern with putting valves in the sap. I’d remove the rubber handles on the valves. Is it just Teflon that’s used to create the seal inside the valve? I think that’s stable under high heat conditions.

Thoughts?

Thanks

[DS Maple]

Do you have picture of the issue now? Based on what I'm getting from your question I would suggest having two pipes from the float box with a plug (outside of the pan) for the one not in use. I'm not sure if this is what you mean though.

[Amber Gold]

I don't have the time to put another port from my float box to the flue pan and at this point would rather not put on in. I figure if I remove the distribution box (which all it is is the single pipe going in with two pipes going out, one on each side to put sap that the front of the pan and you block one of them) and put the T with valves in it would do the same thing.

[Hop Kiln Road]

Josh - I was nervous how small the diameter of the pipe was between the external floatbox and the internal distribution box on that rig. The next generation of that pan did away with the interior distribution box and runs three 1 1/4" pipes out the side of the evaporator to the float box; two for directing the sap to either end of the flue pan by moving an exterior plug, and the third, isolated just to maintain the float level. In a heavy boil the float can get fooled and suddenly the pan will call for alot of sap! I would run it carefully as is and then next summer have Leader modify it. Remember that was originally designed for no blower, no hood. Bruce

[Haynes Forest Products]

I would caution you about ball valves that they capture liquid on the outside of the ball but on the inside of the valve body. What can happen is the liquid gets trapped in there and rots and festers and could get nasty. Im not saying it would be a total train wreck just a thought. Im being told not to have any brass or copper sitting in the boiling sap because it can add color.

[DS Maple]

Yes, the three pipe system was what I was trying to describe. (only I forgot the third pipe used to properly maintain the sap level in the float box.) I have to admit though, even these systems aren't perfect. Ours ran very strangely last year and I can't quite figure out why. Someone was always adjusting the rear float because the level was either too low or too high. It just didn't want to remain steady. Since then the whole rear pan has been rebuilt, so hopefully it will perform better this year.

[danno]

I re-piped mine last year to run without the distribution box. It did not work. The sap levels in the flue pan went all wacky. Could not be overcome by adjusting floats. Don't know if you will have a similar experience.

[Amber Gold]

Thanks guys. Danno, I'm sure if you had that problem then I will to. I guess I'll just stick with the distribution box for this year and try to come up with something else when I have more time.

[Amber Gold]

I got my distribution box fixed. There’s a guy in New Boston who does soldering work. He also put a threaded fitting on my float box so I can connect my feed line to it and put thermometer ports on my syrup pan. Everything came out nice.

I didn’t understand how the 3-pipe float box system worked unitl someone over the weekend explained it to me and drew me a diagram. Now it makes sense. I talked to the guy in New Boston about modifying my flue pan to to a 3-pipe system and said it shouldn’t be a problem. I’ll likely do that for next season. Sounds like a much better/consistent system and no pipes/plugs to swap inside of the pan.