Draw offs

[Tweegs]

The pan we have is a 2X6 cross flow with draw off ports for each channel.

Do you sweat a valve to the port or is there some other means securing the valves to the pan?

Was thinking a short piece of copper, reduce to a 1/2" or 3/4" ball valve and a downward 90 past the valve, silver solder the works together.

Comments?

[Haynes Forest Products]

TWEEGS: you say there are ports what size "ports" are they? I would only put a draw off on the channel that you intend on drawing syrup from. I would just put a brass plug with teflon tape in them just tight enough to seal. Those ports are for draining during cleaning or reversing flow.
Next big question: Are they threaded? If so make up the drawoff as you discribed and clean really good to get all flux off.

[Tweegs]

1-1/2 to 1-3/4" ports, haven't measured them yet, not threaded. The problem I see comes if you need to reverse the flow mid day.

Don't know if I'll get that much sand in a days run, just assumed it possible and better to be prepared. Rookie year and all.

If y'all don't think it necessary to have a valve on each side, pipe up. Wouldn't mind saving the 30 odd bucks for the extra hardware.

Could always solder something threaded on, cap one side, move the valve as needed, so long as I'm not mid boil when needed.

[Haynes Forest Products]

What is it that plugs the holes. If you look at the older pans you will see how they solder valve fittings into them so they dont torqe the sheet metal and cause cracking. Its important to have a well placed valve as low as possible.

[Tweegs]

There was nothing plugging the holes when we got the pan and they are quite low, obviously positioned for drainage.

Thing that got my curiosity up was there is no evidence of anything having been soldered there before. Usually the part will be "tinned", rather, have a small amount of solder left behind after the original part is removed. No evidence of that, so it would appear it is as you suggested earlier, that there was nothing more than a plug installed.

It would seem, however, that this would be a suitable place for a draw off.
I can post a picture after I get home tonight if it would help.

I do appreciate your taking the time to help with this.

[Flat47]

What brand of pan is it? Some (Dallaire, I think) use a band clamp like that used on Metalbestos chimneys. Does the outlet on the pan look like the male side of a cam-lock?

[Haynes Forest Products]

Does it look like there was a gasket clamped on either side of the pan? You can get expandable plugs that will screw tight into the hole......you got it H.D.

[drstan]

are they Tri-Clover fittings?
http://morebeerpro.com/search/101760//all

[Russell Lampron]

Is this a crossflow pan that you using by itself as a flat pan evaporator? If it is 2x6 it came off of a 6x16 or similar evaporator where 2 or 3 of these pans were connected together with pipes so that the sap would flow flow from one pan to the other. Plug one side and put the draw off on the other. Give us the details so it will be easier for us to figure out your situation.

[Tweegs]

A picture is worth a thousand words.

551

552

553

It is a Dallaire pan that I plan to use as a stand alone on a block arch. We'll get in about 90~100 taps this year. Next year will be 150 minimum. My neighbor has 40 acres that I'm sure he will let me tap. God knows how many additional taps are out there, but the goal will be 250. We'll be on a bonafide arch by then, if our fortunes hold.

I may sell this pan or hang on to it as a spare. Either way, I don't want to screw it up by doing something stupid.

[Flat47]

I'm fairly certain you need fittings like Tri-Clover. Try contacting www.MapleGuys.com (founders of this site). They're a Dallaire dealer. Dallaire is top quality in my book and well established so you should be able to get parts.

[Haynes Forest Products]

I have a set of tin pans that have the same type of fitting. They used the same style fitting that is used on sink plumbimg. Its a compression type with a rubber ring. The old style that was all brass or chrome.

[Tweegs]

Hunted all weekend for a solution and came up nil.

The I.D. of the port is 1-7/8" the O.D. is 2-3/16".

Tried to shim up a 1-1/2" copper adapter and sweat it in, but could not generate enough heat to get the solder to flow.

Looked at the tri-clover stuff. Biggest clamp I could find was 1-1/2".

Having a lot of trouble finding copper or SS tube with an I.D. of at least 2-3/16". One would think PVC will just melt.

Could not find a brass plug large enough to just cap the ports off.

I did find a plug. Large diameter metal cap on one end, smaller cap on the other, rubber between the two caps. A wing nut draws the two caps together expanding the rubber to form a seal. Worried about heat causing the rubber to melt and/or creating an off flavor.

Got an e-mail in to the Maple Guys, no word yet.

[Big maple]

TWEEGS, at Sugar Bush they have some high temp tubing for that it comes in 4" sections. That would get the transition to copper for you. It is very stout and has about 1/4" side walls. I think it would work well.

[Haynes Forest Products]

Try this : find a piece of rubber hose that will fit inside the small pipe. Make it about 1 1/2" long. if its a little snug thats good just push it into the hole as a liner. Now take a brass bushing NPT that will screw into the rubber. Pipe threads are tapperd so it should expand and seal the hole as you tighten then install valves into the bushing. If your worried about off flavor dont just boil the heck out of it to release any oils or residue.

[Tweegs]

Good ideas both.

Will try Sugar Bush first, then go with the rubber.

Saw some rubber drain parts at home depot that were the right size or could be made to work in a pinch. I guess this is a pinch.

[inthewoods]

i was boiling on friday with my 2x6 waterloo/small. i have new for 2009 a marcland auto draw when it was time to draw the valve opend and almost drained my front pan. had to shut manualy because temp was high from low level.please advise