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View Full Version : problems running into old tap holes



dano2840
01-30-2009, 10:31 AM
i will be the first to tap my sugar woods in 45 years, i can see on some trees where they were once tapped, not so much on others, but my concern is will i run in to these old tap holes and get crappy yields? do you think 45 years is enough time to have added new growth to the tree so even if i cant tell where an old tap hole was it wont matter? should i make my drops 48" so i can steer completely clear of the old holes? (they were buckets last time they were tapped so they couldnt have gone too high up the tree) any thoughts? if i start tapping and find im running into alot of stained wood that means im going to have to go through and replace all my drops with longer ones which wouldnt be any fun,

ennismaple
01-30-2009, 10:36 AM
In 45 years the trees should have added a lot of new wood so the old holes shouldn't be a problem. Stay 4" to the side and 8" above or below the old holes and you'll be fine.

brookledge
01-30-2009, 11:35 AM
You will be fine. Still use good judgement though. Like you said you can still see the scars from previous tapping. Take a good look at the trees and they will tell you alot from studying the bark. You will get a good feel for previous locations even though it's been 45 years.
Keith

Haynes Forest Products
01-30-2009, 11:43 AM
I make all my drops so that I can reach around the tree and get to all sides. I dont go with the idea of always tapping on the SE or NW side sooner or later you will over tap that side of the tree. I mix it up and try and move 1/4 of the way around the tree. If you cant reach the backside of the tree your drops are to short. Leave them for now but lengthen in 4 years as the holes get to close. 40 years your not seeing old tap holes do they hunt the woods alot?

Jeff E
01-30-2009, 02:04 PM
Alot of reasearch done on this, as seen in previous posts.
The latest I saw for tapping guidance was if the holes heal up in 2-3 years, you can tap 1" to the side, and up or down 7". Follow that pattern. By the time you get around the tree, there will be enough new growth to tap right over the old taps.

This assumed 5/16 taps, 1.5 to 2" depth.

The staining, or damaged wood from the tap is usually about 1 inch wide, and 10" long. You want to avoid this wood, as it yeilds little sap.

forester1
01-30-2009, 02:20 PM
A good growing tree should put on 1"-2" diameter every 5 years. Even a slow grower at 45 years should be all new wood for at least 4" deep.

Russell Lampron
01-30-2009, 07:34 PM
You don't have anything about unless you drill into an old tap that somebody forgot to pull.

maple flats
01-30-2009, 08:18 PM
Even if your tree was rather slow growing you should get at least 1/16" each year if a sugar and near double that if red. At these rates 45 years would give about 3.5" or more if the tree was healthy. An exception might be very large trees. The best growth seems to be about 16-28", after that it is getting old and growth slows. Still an old healthy tree with some sun either from openings on 1 or 2 sides or by overtowering the rest of the competition would have this growth. Tap away! Current suggestions for tapping start at 10" to 12" and work around the tree 2 inches a year. if a 10" was the start, the circumferance is 31.4", going every year tapping 2" orer you are back to the old hole in 15 seasons + about4-6 added growth adds 2 or 3 seasons before you tap over the old area. At this point the tree has at least 2" new growth over the old hole. Just don't drill too deep so you hit the old dead area.

WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER
01-31-2009, 08:38 AM
2 or 3 years ago I tried drilling 1 to 2 inches directly above the prior years taphole, to each side and below and I never hit anything but beautiful white wood and that is with using 5/16" spouts. Did they run as good, I don't know as I didn't have any way to monitor that on tubing, but I never hit any deadwood.

One thing to remember especially for younger or newer sugarmakers, if you split the bark on the tree when driving in the tap, you create a much larger wound on the tree.