Calibrating Draw Off Thermometers

[nymapleguy607]

I was wondering how most of you calibrate your draw off thermometers. Do you calibrate them daily or just once at the begining of the season, and if you do it daily how do you do it? I am using the dial type that screw in next to the float box, but I am still kind of clue less as to how to set this. Last year I just set it at the begining of the season and just checked the syrup as it gt close to 7 degrees. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks Jeff

[maplwrks]

Jeff,
It takes a few minutes, but I start checking mine with a hydrometer as soon as it gets close to 7. I keep checking it until the hydrometer shows syrup, then I set it to that temp. As you boil, you should double check the thermometer as barometric pressure can change very quickly and raise or lower the temp at which the syrup is finished. It takes a little practice, but you'll get it!!

[3% Solution]

Jeff,
I do the same as maplwrks and I know there is a bunch of guys on here that do the same.
Always check with your hydrometer, that the most accurate!!
I used to find the boiling point of water and adjust the thermometer accordingly, that was a lot of xtra work (not really).

Dave

[Haynes Forest Products]

3% has it right Every day you pull the guage and plug the port with plug ( you still dribble syrup down the pan) imerse in boiling water and calibrate with screw on back of guage to boiling point of water. Reinstall (dribble syrup down pan you just cleaned) fire up evaporator. Look around for reason you smell burning syrup (smells like building is on fire) realize its the syrup that dribbled down onto the arch gasket. When thermometer showes syrup is at 7 points you check with hydrometer and decide its 2 points over (clouds rolled in changing barametric pressure) so you decide you will only trust the hydrometer...................end of story

[mapleman3]

I check and adjust at the beginning of the boil day... with the hydrometer, then I have a boiling barometer hanging on the wall and watch, if the pressure changes I check again and adjust, it's nice having the barometer tell you if the boiling temp is raising or lowering!

[Haynes Forest Products]

Mapleman3: Now tell the truth.............after you draw off do you put it in the finisher or the bottler?

[Russell Lampron]

I adjust mine each time I boil using the hydrometer reading. The little Allen wrench stays in the thermometer on the side that I am drawing off of that day and gets switched to the other side when I reverse the flow. That way I always know where it is. I have tried boiling it like Haynes does and like he says it's 2 degrees off. I start checking when it reads 5 because you never know, I have had it read syrup there before.

[Jim Brown]

We check ours three or four times a day if we have a long day boiling. We do the therm in water thing and we also have a boil meter from Marcland. Press once and you get the air pressure-press again and you get the boiling point of water at that location. then just set the draw off temp were you want it.

Jim

[mapleman3]

I still tend to draw off a bit heavy, makes it easier to adjust at the end of the day in the finisher/reheater before going through the press.... so I go a bit higher than 7deg on the therm once calibrated.

I only had one time last year that my finished ready to filter syrup was a bit light and had to really add some heavier syrup... what a pain.

[Haynes Forest Products]

I guess we all get there we just all take differant roads.

[maplwrks]

I know we all get there roughly the same way---why do you guys need a "finisher" before you get syrup into the barrel or can? Why not draw off into a container, or whatever you draw into, then filter it into your canner and can it? It seems that many of us on this sight enjoy making more work for ourselves by handling our syrup 3 and 4 times before it hits its' final container. More guys should try to draw syrup, filter, and can or barrel it while it's hot. You'll find that you won't be half as tired when you are done boiling--it gets even easier if you have an oil fired rig.

[maplecrest]

well said mike. from evap to press to barrell. mike you met my son, jason at cv yet? he works with tim upton

[3% Solution]

maplwrks,
You've got that right; evaporator, to filtering to canning.
I have found that finishing in the pan is easy once you get over the jitters of maybe burning the pan.
I have noticed that once it's almost syrup the whole environment is really boiling (even the flue pan gets hotter).
So why not get things that hot and keep it there!

Dave

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

I bottle up about all my syrup in quarts and pints and for me it is easier to reheat and can maybe half of the seasons production at one time when no boiling is going on. Unless I have help, there would be no way I could or at least should do both at the some time.

Recipe for disaster.

[nymapleguy607]

Thanks for all of the insight. I guess that I was going about in the right direction.

[3% Solution]

Brandon,
When we were in the "Plastic Sugarhouse" I would boil one day and can the next morning before gathering (in the house).
When we moved into the building in my avitar we starting canning as we go.
This saves 40+ hours per season.
Now, as you said, you have to have the help to do so!!

Dave

[Haynes Forest Products]

The reason I drawoff and finish/reheat is I cant have my filter press cool down every 2 hrs and then try to get it to start again. I dont feel comfortable hot packing syrup storing it and then heating to 200 degrees and bottling. I want it coming right out of the press in to the bottler and put in the container.

[maplwrks]

I agree wholeheartedly with Brandon. You do need another set of hands to can.

Haynes--What are you doing for syrup production off your 3x10? Even with small batches, your press should stay warm enough to start another batch. I recycle my syrup through the press a couple of times before I can it, just to get the press really warm. Once I have the press warmed up, I put the syrup right into my canner and my wife cans it right up. I have found that a new bath towel folded up and laid over the press will also help keep the press warm between draws.

[Haynes Forest Products]

Maplwrks: Im not always running the evaporator so its draw off and put in finisher till its full about 30 gallons and then reheat and filter and bulk or bottle. I do circulate threw press to get to temp and then filter. I have taken more syrup showers than I will admit. I would rather start out fresh with new papers and hot pump than try and keep it warm (have done it) and hear that funny squeeking sound and have syrup all over. When things are clicking along and were balls to the walls 3 trips 14 mile round trip for collecting. One person glued to the evaporator and one person in the woods checking taps and lines ,improving vacuum , adding more taps and latterals. I need the break to sloooow doooown and not try to do it all at once. Two kids 2 go karts and alot of mud so my hands get full. I never know what I need for bottles till I know what I have as far as production. Gotta let the free help get a little of the action.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

I can probably reheat and can 4 batches or aprox 50 gallon of syrup in about 5 to 6 hours, so I do this when I can collect or too cold or warm to have any sap to boil. Best thing I can tell you is do what works best for you. There have been a lot of good ideas presented here and just find what works best for you! The biggest key if you are doing it like I do is to make sure you finish the syrup on the evaporator or draw off a little heavy which is what I do so when you reheat, you only have to thin a little with condensate and then filter and can. Don't want to have to be using propane to get it boiled down to density.