fixing leaks

[Uncle Tucker]

This is my first year with vacuum, I was wondering when people talk of fixing leaks,,,,,


On the lateral lines, are you just cutting the fittings out and replacing them or can you try to reseat the tubing?


On the mainlines can I put another pipe clamp on it or reheat the fitting and tighten the clamp or do I have to cut the pipe and reconnect?


I know every leak is different but what is the most common fix?

[PATheron]

This was the experiance I had last year with leaks. I fired up the pump once I had everything tapped in and then I just walked all the lines basically listening for leaks hissing. Loose saddles are a common one and forgotten drops etc. I didnt really have any problem with mainline connections leaking but I use a mainline tool to basically press the fittings onto the tube and I dont heat the line so that really helps on that. After the initial walkaround I would basically walk the lines when I could watching for bubbles racing down the laterals. When I find one I walk out the line tunking on spiles till I find a loose one and youll see the bubbles quit racing instantly. I found I set my spiles light and kind of had to tunk them on in once it warmed up but thats ok I dont like to put them in to hard frozen. Hope this helps. Theron

[maplehound]

Theron does basically the same as I Do. However if I do find a leak at a mainline fitting I just try and tighten the clamp that is on it or add another. Also during the season if I find a hole in the branch lines I just wrap it with electrical tape, that way I don't have to carry my tool and a bunch of fittings around with me. If you should find a fitting leaking I would sugest that you change it wrather than trying to cut it off and re using it.

[brookledge]

If you have existing tubing that you find is leaking at a fitting you can cut it off and shorten the lateral by 1/2" or more if it was sagging and reconect it with your tubing tool. When you cut it don't cut in straight down cut along the side. I have also seen people use dikes or side cutting pliers. The reason you don't want to cut straight into the tubing is if your blade scores a line in the barb fittings it sometimes will create a line for vacuum to leak. I've seen it happen.
Also during the season when I walk my lines I head up the mainline checking each latteral if there is no leak you move on to the next one if there is alot of air bubbles then start up the lateral to find the problem. If you have branch main lines you can save time sometimes if you put in a valve and a vac. gauge. Shut the valve and watch the gauge if it holds the vac. then re open the valve and move on. (This is only a rough way because you can still have very small leaks that can only be seen by eye contact)
Any ways what I do most of the time during the season is to carry a roll of black electrical tape. If a varmit has knicked the tubing you can dry it with a cloth and wrap it and it will hold good.
As for major leaks I can tell at the releaser so I will take a few fittings and my tubing tool and head out in the same manor
Keith

[PATheron]

Keith was talking about mains coming apart and seeing the loss on the gage at the releaser. I found the same true for me. I still dont have gages on my lateral mains and a neat little trick I found was if you go to a lateral main and you dont know if its the leaking one or not just put your ear down to it. If its apart on that lateral main itll be wooshing like crazy in the pipe and you can hear it. Ive never been around the dairy pumps so I dont know if its becouse I have a real big pump or if it would be the same but that was my experiance. Just another little trick. Theron

[sapman]

When you guys install valves and gauges at the lateral main entrance to a manifold/booster, do you go manifold/booster, gauge, then valve? I'm assuming if you walk the lines and have low vac, you shut off the valve, then see if the vacuum picks up. If so, you know that line has problems. No change means no problem with that line. Correct?

Thanks,
Tim

[Russell Lampron]

Sapman the gauge can be installed at either position but if it is after the valve watching the vacuum drop is a faster indication.

[white mt]

The maple chatterbox website has a very good artical on how to find vac leaks.

[maplwrks]

That's all they have---a bunch of OLD articles and no new practical experience!!

[white mt]

They have a chat room that guys can get on and can get an instant answer to a modern maple question .works good

[sapman]

Thanks, Russ. I guess I was thinking that vacuum is going to drop on the "tree" side of the valve when shut off no matter what, but I'm sure it is gradual. But with a leak, it would drop instantly, I assume. Does that sound right?

Thanks again,
Tim