Mainline wire

[caseyssugarshack93]

I have a quick question,When you run ur mainline from tree to tree do you put the wire supports before you hang the mainline or do you hang the mainline on the wire then run ur wire supports to the trees?


thanks,

Nate

[royalmaple]

You have to plant the trees first.

[peacemaker]

then water ... and prune

[Russell Lampron]

Run your mainline wire from end tree to end tree and tighten it up. Add tie back wires to go around corners. Put the mainline on and then add additional tie back wires to eliminate sags and maintain the grade.

[caseyssugarshack93]

haha, im talking about once the mainline is ran, you know how you put wire suppots to trees all the way up the mainline im just wonderin if u hang the mainline first then put the supports or put the supptors up then the mainline

[caseyssugarshack93]

Alright, Thanks Russell

now i know cause i done it both ways and i was just wondering what way is best


thanks

[peacemaker]

i do as russel said i put just enough to hold it up tie the tubing then re tie it pulls your line tight as well i also if its a long run put a tensioner on the top and bot of the run

[caseyssugarshack93]

Alright thanks

[peacemaker]

do u now what we mean by strainers ... i get that kind of stuff from tsc ...much cheaper

[maple sapper]

Do you folks that use the wire get it from tractor supply? I have looked at it and saw that it is 12 GA. I thought I read somewhere that 9 GA was better. I beleve it would be better for obvious reasons that its thicker. Is anyone using 12 ga with success? Does the thicker wire just allow you to go further with out midway supports? The 12 ga wire has a very high tensile strength. Also while I am here asking questions, Is there any science to running larger mains than smaller ones? I was thinking of running a larger line so If I wanted to expand I could and not worry. also my lot has less then desirable slope on one side. I figure if I run a larger line it may allow space for fresh flow in the event of a freeze up. Any input on this thought? Thanks Gregg

[caseyssugarshack93]

I use the 12.5 gauge from TSC


And what do you mean strainers ?

[peacemaker]

strainers or tensioners ...the wire goes into it and you crank it up i use both i use the lighter wire for 5/16ths and heavy for mainlines

[caseyssugarshack93]

oh yeah i got thoes i bought 4 today and a 1000 ft roll of 12.5 gauge wire cause im workin in the sugar bush this weekend im pretty sure i gotta go buy a 2 handed tubing tool and a twist tire tool too.

Thanks for your help

[Thompson's Tree Farm]

Maple Sapper,
I use the 12 ga. wire for both 3/4 and 1" mainline. It is cheaper and easier to work with. Even have some 1 and 1/4 on it. As far as pipe size; If your slope is marginal, go for a larger diameter pipe. I deal with a limited slope in many areas so I often oversize. If you are on a vacuum system, a larger pipe also means more space as a vacuum resevoir to help maintain a more consistent vacuum level. Larger diameter means less friction to slow down air or sap. If you have hopes of expanding and can afford the larger diameter now, go for it. Save all the time and effort of doing it over in a year or two.
Doug

[maple flats]

I hope you have better luck with strainers than I did. When using hi tensil wire I seem to break the wire long before it tightens, breaks where it bends around the spool of the strainer. On regular wire no problem. I had to get a wire puller and a crimp tool to solve the breaking problem. However it was cold when i had the problem, something like 0 if I remember. Warmer may work. The tightener i got was about $25-30 and the crimper was more like $70 last Jan. or Feb. I then use little crimp sleeves which are cheap. All of these are at TSC. Good luck.

[caseyssugarshack93]

I setted up 2 sugarbushes last year i never had a problem with them i just found out if u hinked the wire anwhere along the run it will break thats the only problem i had with the wire but other than that i like the tenciors

[maple sapper]

What kind of distance can I expect to get with 12.5 guage wire? Will I be running one long run and using side wires to support it or utilizing trees that are near by to be supports? Or how about posts? Does anyone have large cable? Is something smaller in gauge better in the event of falling debris? Doing a bunch of planning and want to get it right the first time. THanks Gregg

[halfast tapper]

What kind of distance can I expect to get with 12.5 guage wire? Will I be running one long run and using side wires to support it or utilizing trees that are near by to be supports? Or how about posts? Does anyone have large cable? Is something smaller in gauge better in the event of falling debris? Doing a bunch of planning and want to get it right the first time. THanks Gregg

Your better off doing short runs on your wire say 2 to 3 hundred feet. This way if a tree comes down on your line it doesn't take down the whole line only that short section.
The way I do it is to hook your bottom end , I take a piece of wire and slide it into a piece of 1/2 inch mainline and wrap around tree, that way no hooks or nails are used. Put in a rachet fence tightener, then go to the top and do the same. Pull it as tight as u can into the tensioner , then rachet it tight. Now I uses side wires and pull the wire back as needed to keep it up off the ground and to keep it tight. Always use a wrap around the tree, and make it big enough for growth of tree. This way if you have a deep snow year you can slide it up the tree. No hooks or nails either.

[OGDENS SUGAR BUSH]

I didnt have very much slope{1%} on my mainline so i had to surport it about every 10/15 feet with steel posts to keep it from sagging. it looked good when i put it up but the 1st run will show your sags

RICH

[Jim Brown]

We use 12guage wire from TSC and we pull it TIGHT!!! like a banjo string(ratchet on both ends) and we have had no problems . we have runs of 1000'

Jim

[maple flats]

My current mainlin runs are 450', 600', 750' and a 300'. I think I will do the shorter runs in the future like halfast tapper suggests. It sounds easier, especially if you are like me and often work alone.

[Brian Ryther]

I have found that you need to be consistant with your main line ratchets. They need to be at the top of the line and or at the bottom. If you break up the line into sections do not put a ratchet in the middle. Your line will sag if you tighten the middle ratchets.

[Russell Lampron]

Halfast Tapper what do you do if you have a run of more than 300'? I use 12.5ga high tensile wire and have runs from 500' to more than 1000'. We just got done putting up a 900' 1" mainline that is 25' in the air at one end and an 800' 3/4" lateral main off of that. I use 14ga electric fence wire for tie backs and those break if a tree falls on the line. I also use a strainer at each end of the wire and the pipe. If I need to do repair work at one end I don't have to go all of the way down to the other end to tighten or loosen the pipe or wire.

[peacemaker]

i like that think russ i do the same one at each end

[caseyssugarshack93]

I have a mainline run one one wire thats 2000' with 12 gauge wire with 2 tencioners


Nate

[maple flats]

How do you use the tensioners? As I said earlier I had problems with the high tensil wire breaking at the sharpest bend as i turned the winch axle on the tensioner. My answer was to change to a fence puller and swage crimp connections. I tried to use the tensioners by stringing the wire thru the hole in the tensioner spool and after connecting it the the end trees I used the special handle for winding the wire onto the spool. I had no tension yet when it broke at the hole in the spool and I had to chase the wire and re string it and add a section to try again. I tried a second time with the same results and switched to my alternate method. Did I do it wrong? Did I have a spool of over hardened wire? My new method has had no problems but to release some tension at the end of the season I splice a piece of wire near 1 end and a few inches longer than where I splice it to, then cut the original, the line relaxes some and is now held by the new piece. To retighten I attach my fence stretcher, pull some, cut the loose section, finish tightening and add some crimp sleaves to hold it tight. This costs me about 2' of wire each season and a few crimp sleaves.

[gmcooper]

Dave,
How did you bend the wire at the tensioner. We use lots of high tensile wire here on the farm and in the maple and never broke a wire at the tensioner. We feed the wire thru the spool and put a quick bend enought to hold but not more than 90 degrees at the spool. Kind of bulky for the first few wraps but seems to old fine. I have seen where a guy used a pair of dykes to make his bends and he was actually scoring the wire when he made his bends which were way to sharp. He was trying to be very neat and percise and was defeating the purpose.
Mark

We generally use high tensile from TSC which is a little stiffer and harder to work with (and cheaper) than some, think it is 200,000 psi and a couple fence companies recommend 180,000 as it is more flexible to work with.

[Russell Lampron]

Dave,

I think Mark might have figured out your problem. I pre bend a small hook in the end of the wire by hand, no tools, and stick it onto the hole in the spool and tighten it up. I can get my wires tight enough to play a tune on them without having them break.

[OGDENS SUGAR BUSH]

I also do it like Mark said, slight bend to keep it in the hole then after 1 wrap i break off the excess. Also use t s c wire
RICH

[Russell Lampron]

I also get my wire from Tractor Supply. 4000' is only a little more than what Bascom's charges for 2000' and it is the same brand!

[Dave Y]

I have never had a problem with high tensile wire and i use the tensoners. I use the 180,000 lbs wire from kencove. One of my suppliers is a kencove dealer. I do not pre bend my wire, I just thread the tensoner and start cranking. I get it tight enough to sing then i side tie it. then put my pipe on it. I have had a problem this year with my screw in anchors breaking though. It has happened before the laterals are put on. I think for the most part it is caused by the wind. The line gets to undulating and the motion cant stop and puts too much stress on the anchor and snaps it. I think.

[Acer]

New to this, but why does everyone torture their mainline wire so?
Mine is tight enough not to sag between ties isn't that enough?

BTW kinda like side ties, adjustment on the fly if required is good for a tinkerer like me.

Dean

[sapman]

I do things pretty much like you Dave as far as tensioning goes. Except I wrap around the trees with spacers. So far, so good, but I just started in the last couple months.

It is amazing what the wires can do with some breeze. You've seen our pasture fencing, and sometimes they will just hum away, and you can really feel the vibration in it.

Tim

[maple sapper]

from the sounds of it if the wire is so tight that it sings, how does it react on windy days. does it actually hold the trees taunt? I guess it would depend on how large the trees are. Then again if the wind is blowing all the same direction it would move equally. I would love to be an observer of a wire letting loose, but from a distance of course. That actually sounds leathal. Gregg

[OGDENS SUGAR BUSH]

ACER
i have no slope in my woods so i have ladders to get 1% slop, if the wire isnt super tight when the line fills with sap it sags between the trees. i still have to surport the mainline every 10/15 feet

RICH

[Dave Y]

After the wire is fiddle string tight there is still a lot of give. I have been there when one has let loose. Surprisingly not as bad as you may think.

[ennismaple]

I do things pretty much like you Dave as far as tensioning goes. Except I wrap around the trees with spacers. So far, so good, but I just started in the last couple months.

It is amazing what the wires can do with some breeze. You've seen our pasture fencing, and sometimes they will just hum away, and you can really feel the vibration in it.

Tim

We do the same as Sapman because we use 1/4" guy steel. Go around one tree (with spacers) and tension from the other end with the come-along. We've never had our cable snap. Screw anchors will pull out or the pre-forms will break before that cable does!

[OGDENS SUGAR BUSH]

Weld the eye shut should keep the lag bolt from breaking

[maplecrest]

after building high tensile fence all summer, i learned a few things. one those little crimp retainers are great. and the wire will break some where else before they let go. the tool and the retainers are expensive but worth it once you learn how to use them. great for fixing broken spots in the wire too. if a tree came down on it ect.also found that i need one less ratchet. at the top of the line put wire thru a length of pipe around the tree and use two retainers to hold it. put ratchet at the bottom to tighten wire

[bison1973]

What are the "spacers" that some have mentioned they use when going around a tree?

[caseyssugarshack93]

usally picese of wood going arought the tree so the wire to go into the tree it goes to the pices of wood u put around the tree

[Dave Y]

As far as spacers go for protecting the tree, I do not use them. They can cause more tree damage in the long run.The spacer will retain mositure and induce rot. I use a peice of 1/2' plastic pipe or tubing to run my wire thru and wrap around the tree. this covers less surface area on the tree and can be moved each year. And as far a screw in achors go, I use the insulated corner anchor.

[dano2840]

what i do is i plan where my main line is gunna go and i go up against trees every 20 r 30 ft so they almost hold the wire up there just from the strain of the wire going around them at like a 45 angle. then i put wood between the wire and the trees, slab wood or big branches out in the woods, then i tighten the wire to as tight as i want to go with it and then wire tie the pipe to it, and every year i move my pieces of wood around, sometimes 2 times a year if its been really wet out so it doesnt cause a "dead" spot on the tree where the tree starts to grow around the wood

[mapleteen54]

i just ran about 900 ft of mainline with 120 taps i found the best way was to run the wire out on the ground and hook it to your tree maine support tree with a rachet tightener and do the side wire suports the same time you pull the wire up i found that driving a nail to hold the side suports up in place worked well then pull them out after