View Full Version : Moving small maple trees
MFarmall
08-26-2008, 09:34 PM
Hello, I was back checking corn fields this evening and walked part of the woods to mark some trees to cut out (firewood and make more room for maples). Seeing all the maple starts, 6"-24", wondering if anyone has dug any that size to transplant. And if so any time of year better to move them?
Saw enough I think I will check around if anyone would wants some to re-plant. Seems like would be a real waste to leave them where they are, under all the other canopy as thick as they are.
Thanks for any info.
mountainvan
08-26-2008, 09:45 PM
I moved some 5 ft trees a couple of years ago in the spring. One died, the others are now 15 ft tall. I've heard the best time to move trees is the fall. Make sure to get a good rootball and water well after replanted.
brookledge
08-26-2008, 11:09 PM
You may want to consider taking a sugar content reading on the little saplings to help determine which ones to transplant. Even with a 2-3 foot tree if you test the sugar content at the same time and date the highest readings will usually remain the highest sugar content through out their lives.
You will need a refractomer to do the test. All you need is a couple drops. Best time to test is in fall or spring after a freezing night followed by a warm day.
Many producers use this test to help determine which trees to cut to allow for the trees to grow better.
Keith
lpakiz
08-26-2008, 11:17 PM
Well, 31 years ago, I was digging out soft maple "ditch trees" and replanting them in the yard of our new house. I am now tapping these trees. They are 18" plus in diameter and about 50 to 60 feet tall. Most were broomstick size. I did this from mid-summer on to fall. Almost all lived. I watered by drilling a 3/16 or so hole in a 5 gallon pail and letting the water run onto the roots slowly. I refilled the pail at least daily. I also broke off all the branches and leaf clusters I could reach from the ground or from the lawnmower. I also fertilized several years by barring holes at the drip line and filling with fertilizer.
You should see the shade I have now, plus the syrup.
If you have the opportunity, "root prune" a year ahead of transplanting. Do this by jamming a shovel into the ground all around the roots in about a 12 or 15 inch circle and 4-5 places. This cuts the long roots without disturbing the rest of the plant. A year later, jam the shovel in again in 4-5 places and "pop" the tree out of the hole.
GO FOR IT!!
halfast tapper
08-26-2008, 11:48 PM
You can transplant any time of the year, but the best time is in the fall after the leaves have fallen off. You can do one of two things, You can transplant them as soon as you dig them up with a root ball, or you can shake all the dirt out of the root ball and store them for the winter in a shaded place , like the barn or upstairs of a garage. Then when spring comes you dig your hole for the tree put a mix of nice topsoil, and peat moss , with a little cow manure, not a lot or you will burn the roots. About a 45-45-10 percent mix.
Stake the tree off three ways and water daily. Have done this many times works real well. Best chance for success this way. Good luck.
MFarmall
08-27-2008, 10:55 PM
Thanks for the info. Didn't think about checking sugar content, will do that as soon as weather cooperates.
Had heard my dad talk about root pruning trees, think I'll try that on a few of the 3-4 ft ones. Maybe put 7-8 in the back yard. Some could be dug with a good root ball but think may have to shake dirt off and store more in the barn.
Was going to get back and mark some with tape this afternoon, but my uncle had knee replacement surgery this morning so was at hospital this afternoon. Kind of good thing, finally getting a little rain today. Boy could use some more for the late beans.
Again thanks for all the info, maybe I can offer some back some to someone if need it. I'm more familiar , right now, with metal working and farming than making maple syrup. Hope that is reversed soon.
ccowenc
04-01-2009, 11:03 AM
I have some stonewalls and other areas that keep begging me to plant some sugars. And I have spied some neighbors with several clusters of sugar saplings of various size; 3ft to 15-20 ft.
Is it practical/possible to go for the big ones?
Having never transplanted anything, what should I be looking for?
How deep and wide do the roots go? How much digging should I expect to do?
Is there any use in trying to back hoe out, or pull out with a tractor?
What about care once transplanted?
Thanks!!!!! Charlie 603 522-5245
forester1
04-01-2009, 11:54 AM
You are better off planting small trees. Remember almost half the tree is underground in the form of roots. The 3 foot tree will catch up to a 15 foot tree if you transplant them at the same time unless you can get a 4 or 5 foot root ball. Even with a 3 foot tree, you are better off if you can get more than a foot diameter of root ball. Mulch with leaves, bark or whatever to keep down weeds, and water during dry periods the first year.
michelle32
04-01-2009, 01:23 PM
You can contact the unh coopertive extention. They can point you in the right direction. Just remember it takes 40 years for this tree to be the right size for tapping.
ccowenc
04-03-2009, 12:21 AM
Thanks for the info so far. I even got a call from one of you from Ohio! I still haven't got it all but I'll keep looking around this site. ... I suppose my plan is to try to transplant 10-30 saplings this spring. I have 55 acres and almost no sugar maples. The property was clear cut about 10 years bfore I bought it (which was 5 yrs ago.) There are two pockets of about 25 trees each, mostly reds, that I have been tapping. I'd like to fill in some gaps and plant some sugars along about 1,000 feet of stonewall. (At some places this wall is 9feet wide -pretty cool, I think.) ... So technique and tips are something I still would appreciate. Thanks, --Charlie
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.1.7 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.