Steam stack

[wanabe]

Hi Guys,


I found some plans for a preheater and hood for the flue pan on my 2x8 I have got them both done except for the stack on the hood. The plans said I could put a damper in the pipe to help adjust the temp of my preheater but did not say how big a pipe to run. Also I was wondering can you put a blower on the stack to force the steam out or does the turbulance in the hood do all the work?


Thanks Jeff

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

Jeff,

One a hood for a 2x5 flue pan, they recommend a 6" steam stack with a damper. The damper lets you hold more steam in the hood to get the temp of the sap up to 190 to 200 degrees.

[gearpump]

I have a leader hood with a preheater over my 2x4 fluepan. It does have a damper and believe me it makes a difference. I plumbed in a fitting to accept a themometer to check the temp of the "hot sap". When the sap coming in is cold I adjust the damper to keep the temp about 200 degrees, when the incoming sap is warmer I open it up to keep the temp the same . I have had it up to 205 degrees but there was a lot of bubbling on the vent pipe. If I closed the damper I bet I could have gotten it up to 210 or higher! Also my stack is 6" dia.

Marty

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

Jeremy,

Leader does recommend a 6" steam stack on a 2x6 or 2x8. With 8" stack, you may have too much draft pulling steam out and everyone I have talked to stated that the damper was the key. If you add a damper, that should help you a lot.

I am having an Amish make me a fully customized stainless hood with a 10" stack on it. The reason for this is I am going to have the stack pulling the steam from both pans as the front hood is going to be attached to the back hood and I am going to have a damper in place. One thing you can do to also increase your gph rate would be to add more length/pipe to the preheater. The would increase the temp of the outgoing sap.

As far as Marty, he has a 2x6 Grimm and a really nice setup. He has pics on Jim's website if you get a chance to take a look. I am also curious what is gph rate is also because he has a hood and preheater, but his evap is oil fired! :D

[gearpump]

Next year newest addition will be a flowmeter to get an accurate GPH reading. I believe that I am over 40 when the sap is above freezing. It takes me about 5 hours and a bit to empty my 230 gallon storage tank. I normally run my front pan 1"to 3/4". I tryed a 1/2" one time but the pan really started a rocking so I moved it back up to 3/4". I like to make syrup for the fun of it, not for the the adrenalin rush! On a good day with sap at 2.75 to 3 brix we can draw off 2 gallons of syrup in an hour.

Marty

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

Marty,

What does a cheap flowmeter costs and where can you get one??

[MaineMapleDave]

I have been toying with getting one of these (http://www.jerman.com/dljmeter.html) to be able to keep track of how much sap I play with on an annual basis. Different sizes, rated for water which should be fine for maple sap.

They turn up on e-bay, or a good plumbing supply house near you should have some leads as well.

I would look for one that can be reset, too.

The subject of steam hoods was brought up @ the boiling seminar the other day. Brad ,from Leader, said that the steam stack sizes will have to be updated due to the increase in gph with the more efficiennt pans and arches. He also mentioned a problem he encountered on a service call; problem- can't keep the syrup pan deep enough (I think that was the problem). The rig had a tight fitting hood on the flue pan w/ a steam stack damper, the float box level looked fine but not much call for sap. Brad said he stood back and opened up the door on the hood and after the steam had puffed out, he looked inside.Sap was gushing in to cover the exposed flue tops! Once the situation was under control they realized that the steam hood had become so pressurized that the level in the float box was being held at that height from the pressure being exerted on it from inside the pan. The pressure was lowered by simply adjusting the stack damper; problem solved. This problem can also occur even if you have gauge glasses installed on your flue pan. Just thought I'd pass this along.

[saphead]

That last rather lengthy post was from the longwinded Saphead.

[tubetamer]

Anyone looking for a flow meter for their sap can use a water meter. Check with a village or city that meters their water and you probably can get a used one and they may even give it to you, or charge a nominal fee to cover the scrap value. Be sure to get one that registers in gallons to make it easier. Some register in cubic feet. 7.48 gals. = 1 cu. ft. Request that they run an accuracy test before you take it. Some may charge for the test. Water meters to meet American Water Works Standards must register between 97% and 100%. An older meter may not meet these standards but you would know the accuracy by the test.

[brookledge]

I use a water meter it works good. Just remember about freezing. I have a small insulated area ( 4'X4'x4') under my feed tank that is heated in my sugarhouse that I have my pump,filter, and water meter. It is nice to keep exact numbers instad of estimating. I found mine in the scrap pile. I don't know what one cost new but can find out.