Flue Pan Design/Drawings

[Amber Gold]

I'm thinking of having someone locally make me a 2'x6' flue pan if the price is right. I am also thinking of having him make a max type flue pan. I've never torn apart a raised or drop flue pan so am not sure of the diemensions of all the pieces required to to put it together. I also want to make sure that the float boxes are a standard size and the top will be a standard size so that I can put on a standard size steam hood/preheater.

Does anyone have plans or dimensions of a flue pan, the flues, and its parts. If it matters in the design my syrup pan has a 4"x6" float box on each side.

Thanks

[brookledge]

The manufactuers have patents on their designs. And while I suppose if you copied someone elses design and did not say anything nobody would know but it's a little different if you are looking for someone else to build one for you and sell it at a profit.
Keith

[Big_Eddy]

I'm not sure that there is much in the basic design of a flue pan that would be subject to patent protection today. Sure the individual vendors will have current patents on their latest "enhancements" but what Amber Gold is looking for would not likely infringe on any current patents.

Amber Gold - maybe the best thing to do would be to get a good look at someones pan and take some photos and measurements - seeing both how the pan is put together and the various dimensions would give you a good idea.

If you do get some info - please share it as I plan to try to build a flue pan this summer.

[Amber Gold]

I'm not intending on selling the pan after it's made. Me and another local guy are looking for the same things, one of them being a 2x6 flue pan. I've noticed not many people run a 2x8 evaporator, but we both have old 2x6 G.H Grimm arches with a syrup pan, but no flue pan. We're both figuring if we're going to retin the arch, we might as well stretch it while we're at it. There's a couple of local sugar houses I was planning on checking out anyways, so i guess I'll make to take some measurements and photos. Maybe see if I can find some with drop and raised flues so I can figure out how to combine them.

Big Eddy, I'll gladly share whatever information I get.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

2' more of pan and arch will make a lot of difference in evap rate and wood useage and you are right, it would be wise to do it now.

[RileySugarbush]

I agree with Brandon. If I hadn't bought the 3' flue pan and 32" syrup pan I built may arch around, I would have made a 2x8 rather than the 2x6 I have now. With the longer pan and a bigger blower, I could crank up my rate like he does or really increase the efficiency at my rate. A nice choice to be able to make. Either way is better than my 2x6.

[Amber Gold]

Jeremy, do you have his contact info or his screen name?

[3% Solution]

Amber Gold,
I guess you have to decide how many sections you want in your flue pan.
Mine has three.
Now, how many 1/2" wide drop flues do you have room for?
Remember, the more flues, the more surface is exposed to the heat.
I would think, 1" between flues would be good.
My pan has three drop flues in each section.
They're an inch wide (wished I had gone with 1/2" wide) and 3" deep (wish I had gone 7" deep).
Build your self a float box on the side and an outlet, your done!!!
Another thing to think about is the thickness of the material used.
Will you have it soldered or welded?
Just my two bits!!

Dave

[Dill]

Well I'm the "other local guy". This thread is really helpful so far.
There is a really good local welder/metal worker that I'm planning on getting a quote from after Josh comes up with the plans.
Both of our arches are Grimms and look like they were setup for raised flues, but they are both in dire need of retinning anyway.
Please keep the ideas coming, if there is something you would have done differently to your pan or somthing that works well. Shout it out.
We have a while here, but Josh is laid up currently so he has plenty of time to play with CAD.

[MapleME]

WF MASON Evaporators
90 Chapel Street
Porter, ME 04068
207-625-8089

wfmason@psouth.net

I just got his new flyer in the mail- and I did see one of his units this season. Looked really nice for a good price. Ask him to send you his flyer.

MapleME

[Amber Gold]

Thanks for the info maple me.

My arch has a 21.5" wide opening and it's 9" deep without brick. I was figuring 7" drop flues and 4-5" raised flues. I'm figuring if I'm going to get a pan made I might as well go with a max type pan. I was thinking a 2-section pan with a single float box that has a plug hole to direct the sap into either section. My syrup pan has two float boxes, so those will not be needed on the flue pan. I haven't decided if I'm going to put a float in the front pan or a gate valve. I've seen it done both ways and I've heard that front floats can stick. I don't know yet.

What are the dimensions of a typical sap float box?

Any further input's appreciated.

Thanks.

The hood and preheater are on the fence this season, depending on funds.

[Uncle Tucker]

If I was going to have a pan made a few things I would do are:
-Put all the controls (float, and plugs to change directions) on the outside. That way you can put a hood on and not have to reach in it to change directions or to change the depth.
-I would have high sides so sap doesn’t jump out (like mine dose).
-A drain is a must!
-I would make it four compartment so when your sap is questionable you will keep your grade.
-And some thing to think about is some sort of heat shield by the stack so sap splashing doesn’t burn to the top of the pan above the sap level.
Just my thoughts.