Thermometer

[Amber Gold]

I need to get a thermometer for next season and am not sure which would be a good one to get. It doesn't need to be digital, if there are better and more accurate alternatives. I thought that I had read on one of the threads that you can find them accurate within 1%, but at 219F that's plus/minus 2.19 degrees, which is a world of difference is making syrup. I would think it would be too much. Does anyone have any recommendations? I guess my budget is $100, unless it's truly not enough.

Thanks

[Gary in NH]

I use a syrup hydrometer and a stainless steel hydrometer cup. I think it is a more accurate way to know exactly when your done.

[barrelstove]

however you go about it youll have me beat, my candy thermometer is difficult to read with all the steam and condensation on it.

[softmaple]

get a dial maple one, 3 or 5 inch its worth it. boiling starts at 0 and 7 is when its done. its easy to calibrate evey day due to baramotretic pressure variations. so thats where the hydrometer comes in to calibrate your therometer to your syrup. 50 to 60 bucks and you will always have it. along with a hydrometer you will be all set. i have looked into all sorts of digital ones and it seem their expensive and after 200 degrees it looses the decimal point reading.

[Amber Gold]

I was looking for a 0-7 degree thermometer, but couldn't find one on the Maple Guys or Bascom's websites. Maple Guys just carries digital and Bascom's carries 3" and 5" 0-50 degree thermometers. I'm guessing you'd be able to set the 0 degree mark to the boiling point of water for the day? Any ideas where I can get the 0-7 degree thermometers?

[softmaple]

thats the one 0 to 50

[Brent]

I guess we need to know if you are looking for a pan thermometer for the evap or one for testing syrup after drawing off.

I go an Accu-cup from the hosts of this forum www.mapleguys.com and after 3 years of futzing around with hydrometer cups, hydrometers, separate thermometers and combination hydrotherms... I am sold on the Accu-cut.

Draw off into the cup to pre-heat it, or put it over the pan in the steam to keep it hot. Draw into it, it will give you the temp. Insert the hydrometer and you've got it.

It will blow your $100 budget exactly but you get a cup and thermometer and temperature conversion chart in the deal.

The thermometer that comes with it could be slipped out and put in the pan but that might be a bit of pain.

[Amber Gold]

I guess I would need both. I hadn' t thought of getting one for the hydrometer cup, but I justed checked their website and that does seem to make it pretty easy.

I'm thinking I may end up with one of each. I'm not sure how you'd be able to get away without a thermometer in your syrup pan so that you know when the syrup is getting close.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

Unless you are finishing on the evaporator, you don't need to recalibrate the theremometer every day. I calibrated my 0 to 50 thermometer several years ago the first boil on the evaporator and haven't touched it since. The boiling point of water will vary, but isn't going to change much.

[Amber Gold]

Isn't it easier/more efficient to finish on the evaporator? That was my intent, unless there's a better way. I was planning on finishing on the evap and then drawing off into the cone filters and then putting it in a canner or coffee urn for storage until I'm ready to can.

Open to suggestions.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

Do whatever works best for you. There are members on here doing about 50 different things. You have to find best what works for you. I don't like finishing on the evaporator as I like to can and bottle 10 to 15 gallon batches at one time and not have to worry about the density when I am boiling.

I get it heavy and reheat and finish end of day or a later date. Almost 100 gallons cost me about $ 12 in propane this year doing it this way.

[OGDENS SUGAR BUSH]

I like to finish heavy in the evaporator then test it and thin it down and can it

RICH

[Amber Gold]

I see it makes sense to finish heavy and then bring it back to density. Why finish on something less efficient if you don't have to. Are you filtering as you're going or filtering all at once at the end of the day? I'm thinking that if you waited until the end of the day, got it to the correct density using sap, you'd then be able to filter and can.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

I usually bottle up all my syrup in quarts and pints as I go as I retail everything in those 2 sizes only and don't do any other value added products as most people around here don't even know what maple syrup is other than Aunt Jemima or however you spell that nasty stuff. It is easier for me to bottle everything at the end of the day or a slow day when I have extra time.

I know about exactly what the ratio will be off pints to quarts and bottle accordly. I think in the future I may pick up 5 of the 1 gallon jugs and bulk it until I run out and them reheat and bottle accordingly as it will already be filtered and frozen in the case I have a big order of pints for Christmas baskets, etc.

If you ever want to invest some money into something that is worth it as far as maple equipment goes, invest in a short bank filter press. You can filter 10 to 15 gallons with it in less than 5 minutes and the syrup is sparkling clean and with proper care should last a lifetime and cost you about $ 10 to $ 15 per 100 gallons of syrup for DE and papers.

I bought a Lappierre press from the maple guys 2 years ago and they shipped it to me about 1,000 miles and it was one of the best maple investments I have made and I could sell the thing for more than I paid for it other than the pump, there is hardly anything to wear out and the prices on them just keep getting higher.

[Amber Gold]

I was thinking of getting a filter press, but wasn't sure at what point it made sense to get one. I think next season I'll only be about 100 taps, but plan on expanding from there to I'm hoping about 500. I use cone filters now and I'm not a big fan of them because they take too long and do a mediocre job. Then again that could be do to technique.

[softmaple]

i have 120 taps and would not filter without a filter press again. no loss of syrup, an its crystal clear. this year we made 47 gallons of syrup on mosty softmaples, norways, silvers, reds, and a couple sugars

[twigbender]

You can get the type of therometer you're looking for at: www.andersonsmaplesyrup.com

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

If you do plan on expanding and don't like gravity filtering, then invest in a short bank press. I don't like having to handle and wash the filters and prefilters in gravity filtering. I like never touching the final product and the filter press is the closest thing to that. Costs more up front, but pays for itself in the long run and saves time and headache.