Welded pan issue

[xulgiy]

Question for all of you TIG welders. I started welding two new pans out of 18ga. stainless. Everything was peaches and cream on the 2x2 syrup pan until I started in the baffles. Even using a heat sink, I had a lot of warping along the top edge. I pounded most of it out with a rubber mallet....but that ripple along the top is going to bug me. Any sugestions on how to bring it back?? I was thinking about using hardwood strapping to sandwich the top edge, but I'm concerned about condensation dripping off the wood back into the pan. I'd love to here some ideas. Buying MORE stainless is not an option.

Thank you!

[markct]

well the best advice i have is not of much help now, i usualy clamp a straightedge along something like that to hold it straight till it cools completely, then usualy it will be fine, just like when i hardface a excavator bucket, put scraps in for x bracing and strutting and cut them out after they cool and everything stays put. but at this point in the game i think i would weld a little stiffiner strip of stainless across the top of the bafflles, are your baffles just flat pieces, when i made mine i bent a small flange on the top to stiffen them up and they stayed straight, i only welded about 50 percent in skip welds with my mig and stainless wire

[hydrogeo]

Not to hijack but how did welding a pan with your mig work out? I have a small 110 mig that I contemplated trying but I thought it would burn through even on low heat.

Regarding the baffles, I know most of the production pans have a stiffening ridge or are double over.

[Maple Restoration]

Any tig welding that I have done for my pans, I simply do small tack welds every 2-3 in. apart for the length of the run at very low heat and let it cool and then repeat. For a complete 1in. pass I will take about 10 min and this is on 22-gage stainless steel. This will avoid any warping. At the stage you are at you could try dry ice to take the warping out I have done this with regular steel but haven't tried it with stainless.

[WF MASON]

Did you put a bend on the top and bottom edge of the divider? If not , it an't pretty. If you did , use a mallet and get it the best you can. Even the 'big guys' get warping, I looked at a maple pro last year a Goodrichs, that was put togeather in sections , it still had an arch to the partitions. Its hard to control. Algier put two 45degress on the top of their dividers, that made them 'strong', they didn't bend or warp.
Butt welding the flat edge of a pc of 22ga onto another pc is a trick, putting a 90' on each side and tacking that down is a much better one.

[markct]

hydrogeo: it worked pretty well, not a high quality smooth perfection weld like tig, but something presentable, my pan was 20 gauge and it worked well but yes i did burn thru in a few places but a few bits of welding and grinding took care of that, it takes a medium heat with my 110 mig and a quick weave to have good results, but it is doable had just one tiny leak that was easily touched up

[xulgiy]

Thanks a bunch guys. Lesson learned. I just realized that I said top edge...it was the top edge of the actual pan on the sides I attached the baffles to. I'll be putting a bend on the back pan baffle sides and bottom....and just tack every couple of inches. If I can find some scrap, I'll definatetly weld a brace along the top of my ugly front pan. I appriciate all the feedback!

[gmcooper]

I'd follow WF Mason advice on stainless welding. he is certainly a master craftsman! Bill made some custom stuff for us and he did incredible job on all of it. No warps or buckles anywhere on them.
Mark

[xulgiy]

Thanks Mason,

I bent the bottom edge and the outsides of the baffle for the rear, punched holes in the flange every two inches or so and tacked it all in...MUCH easier and it looks great!

TIGed on three one inch coupler ends and drilled through with a unibit after. That worked slick. I'm all dome and they hold water, so I guess the next test is a boil once I get the arch done.

Thanks again!