Filter/ Canning unit question's

[Bucket Head]

Not for this season, hopefully for next year, I am going to build a filter/canning unit. Unless I find one for a steal...

Any comment's or concern's about building one using 16ga. stainless? I know this is thicker than the stainless used in the factory made equipment. I can get this metal for nothing, that's why I'm going to go with it.

I also realize it is harder to bend than the thinner stuff. I have access to a hydraulic brake, so bending it won't be a problem.

Anyone out there with a homemade one? What are your "like's" and "dislike's" about it?

Anyone using their filter/canner as a finisher? Other than the filter rack, I don't see a difference between the canner and the small finisher's that are offered by some manufacturer's.

Steve

[gmcooper]

I had a custom made large bottling tank made a couple years ago by WF Mason on here that works super for us. One of the features is the drain is out the bottom of the pan on one end. Welded in flush with the bottom so there is no lip to prevent complete draining of the pan. With just a slight amount of elevation under the rear of the pan it will drain dry.
As for the thicker gauge stainless the only drawback I can see would be little slower heat transfer.
Mark

[tuckermtn]

gmcooper stole my suggestion...I have the leader 16x16 and the thing I like the least is the fact that it won't drain all the way since the fitting is on the side, just up from the bottom...

and yes, we use ours for finishing...then filter once more before we bottle out of it...

we are experimenting with two pans this year- both 16 x 16- we will drain + filter out of the finished syrup up on the heating stand into the other pan- then put the second now full pan back up on the stand to keep warm while we bottle...

[hard maple]

I have a Grimm 12x20 and a
D&G 16x16
Problem with the grimm is that it's only 20,000 BTU's
Takes forever to reheat a tank full of syrup
The D&G is a 65,000 BTU's
I would suggest you properly size your burner for your tank

[super sappy]

. I like having my drain 1/4" off the bottom because if by some chance something gets inside the syrup it will settle below the draw off and not go into your container especially if you are packing in glass.I also think that if I was going to do any inprovements a sight tube would be nice. I could make a mark letting me know where the last Gal or 1/2 is.I seem to alwayse get a jug about 7/8 full and I am empty on the last draw. The stuff below the drain goes into the house jug ushally or over to the neighbors.-ss

[3% Solution]

Bucket Head,
We're going to have one made in the next week or so.Our plans are to have it made with copper (it's easier to solder).It will be double boiler type rig, you know with a water jacket.With a water jacket the syrup won't burn on the bottom.It will be 12" x 12" x 12", hopefully it will hold 4 gallons.That's what we're got going.Oh yeah, the burner is a Cabella's camp stove burner.Dave

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

16 gauge should be fine as you are only reheating syrup and will not make very little difference. If you are boiling in it, it might be a little more of a concern.

[brookledge]

Tukermtn
I think you will like using two pans that is what I do. I have a 16X20 that I use to heat the syrup before running through the press and then into another canner to keep it hot while canning. You'd be suprised how fast the syrup cools to under 180. That way I don't have to worry about a problem with mold on the top of the containers.

Keith

[Bucket Head]

Thank's for the input guy's. I like the two pan system idea. I never thought of that.

Steve

[lpakiz]

Hello All,
I made one out of the SS overwrap from a wrecked semi-tanker. It is shaped like a rural mailbox, only with a peaked roof and upside down. I made the "pitch" of the roof fairly steep so all the niter and other settlings find their way to the bottom of the "V" I also made a set of baffles that I drop in. They resemble the old ice cube tray dividers that we used to use long ago, before auto icemakers.The baffles are basically triangluar shaped pieces of SS, drilled and silversolderd to a 12 inch piece of 1/4 inch SS rod. They are shaped to match the bottom of the "V" closely. I put a LP burner (from and old oven or furnace?) under the tank. Can get to a boil in a few minutes to finish syrup. Then let it settle a while. The junk settle to the bottom and I have a SS valve on one end. Draw a few times and dump back into the tank to clean out the last little "compartment" nearest to the valve. From then on, it's clear syrup. I didn't even use a filter last year, and it turned out very clear. Works GREAT.

Larry

[jemsklein]

id love to see some pictures

[lpakiz]

OK, I can try. Around here, getting pics to the computer is like breeding elephants--it's done at a very high level, it is accompished with a great deal of screaming and roaring, and, it can take up to 2 years to get results....
check back in a cupla days...
Larry