Pass Thru Plumbing - Through Wall to Insulated RO Room?

[cray54]

We are completing a new RO room. We want to put a collection of pipes through the wall with male cam locks on both sides. I'd like to fix the pipes so they don't slide in the wall, and don't rotate. The wall is 8.5" thick.

Any suggestions for keeping the plumbing from moving and rigid enough for camlock use? Alternatively, what methods are you using to connect RO plumbing through your RO room walls?

Here are two views of what I'm planning (but without any clamps/mounts):

https://www.grayred.com/images/s/mapletrader/pass-through-34p.jpghttps://www.grayred.com/images/s/mapletrader/pass-through-r.jpg

Thank you, Chris

[darkmachine]

I'm considering the same thing, my plan was to fasten an angle bracket on the inside the wall cavity, and then use pipe clamps around it to keep it from slipping in or out, I might put some spray foam around it too.

[Hillcrest Maples]

Try to keep ALL your valves in the RO room. I can control all my tanks (holding, concentrate, head, permeate,waste, ect.) from the room. Nothing more annoying than crawling around the sugar house opening and closing valves or swapping hoses. I use 3-way bottom fed banjo type so they double as shut offs.

[4 Paws Sugar Shack]

Chris, what about using a link seal from a electrical or plumbing supplier on both interior and exterior faces of the wall at your penetration. They are designed to hold pipes firmly and centered in a cored hole. Also you can make various sizes out of them.

[buckeye gold]

Why not just use PVC pipe and glue fittings and glue a male NPT x glue fitting tight against the wall then do the same on the other side and thread you quick connect onto the PVC fitting it will prevent pull or push back that way. If you want extra protection from pull through then cut a plate and secure to the wall as reinforcement first.

[cray54]

Try to keep ALL your valves in the RO room. I can control all my tanks (holding, concentrate, head, permeate,waste, ect.) from the room. Nothing more annoying than crawling around the sugar house opening and closing valves or swapping hoses.

I do like the mentality, but everything we have outside the RO room freezes. So while we have control valves in the RO room, we end up needing valves, hose drains, and disconnects on the bottom of each tank.


I use 3-way bottom fed banjo type so they double as shut offs.

Can you describe further how you use the 3-way valve to double as a shut off?

[cray54]

Chris, what about using a link seal from a electrical or plumbing supplier on both interior and exterior faces of the wall at your penetration. They are designed to hold pipes firmly and centered in a cored hole. Also you can make various sizes out of them.

This is a great solution! I've never seen these before. I kept wondering if they make cable glands to seal large pipes. This is similar but better. I think our wall surface is too thin (3/8" plywood) to work for my use case, though. I'll check it further.

[Hillcrest Maples]

I keep all my tanks in an insulated room with a "Coolbot" controller to turn an old air condition into a poor mans walkin cooler. I run heat tape on all the plumbing inside the tank room / cooler as it stays around 35 degrees.

You have to get a "bottom fed" type banjo L flow pattern. It can flow left, right, and then another 1/4 turn that closes the left and right ports (so no fluid passes out the tank but you can service either side of the plumbing. I run my permeate into 1 side of the 3 way so it can feed the RO without swapping hoses. 3 seasons of juggling hoses in the sugar house and everything getting wet all the time I gave up.

[4 Paws Sugar Shack]

Chris, if you decide on link seals you can always just center it in the plywood or make a little picture frame around the pipe with3/4"-1" finish boards to beef up your contact with the seal. At least at 4 points.

[cray54]

I'm considering the same thing, my plan was to fasten an angle bracket on the inside the wall cavity, and then use pipe clamps around it to keep it from slipping in or out, I might put some spray foam around it too.

This got me thinking about clamping from the side (I was stuck on fastening to the wall somehow). I realized I should locate these in the corner and mount to the side wall. Thank you for the suggestion.

[cray54]

This is what I came up with after thinking about it here. We can put these closer to the corner of the room, and mount unistrut on the side wall. Then, pipe clamps can hold the pipe rigid and take any loads. We'll still foam (if needed) and caulk the gap, but then the rotational and axial loads are held by the strut. I think it will work well.

https://www.grayred.com/images/s/mapletrader/pass-through-strut-34p.jpghttps://www.grayred.com/images/s/mapletrader/pass-through-strut-top.jpg

Thank you, Chris