Auto Draw

[Paul01036]

I hope everyone had a good 2024 season. I am considering an auto draw off set up from Smokey Lake. Does anyone of you have this or similar? I find it an issue to try to properly calibrate the thermometer over a pot of water as the thermometer I have has a small set screw underneath and needs to be adjusted with a screwdriver and the only way to do it is to remove it from the water.

My thought with the auto draw is you set the temp digitally and it would auto draw at the correct temp. I know many of you may suggest and RO and that too may be in the cards but I wanted to get your thoughts on a auto draw.

thank you

[mainebackswoodssyrup]

We have the Smoky Lake Maple Simplicity auto draw for our 2x6. Love it, 5th year on it and works like a champ every time. You still need to calibrate daily when you first get going with a boil but generally good for the rest of the day after the first couple drawoffs.

[Pdiamond]

I have there basic auto draw off system and would not be without it ever again. Having the auto-draw off is like having another person helping you. Don't get me wrong. you still need to monitor it, but you can just crack the valve open and let the syrup trickle into your container or filter into your bottler.

[ecp]

Not knowing the details about your setup it sounds like you do not have an RO. If that is the case, I wouldn't invest the money in an auto draw. Boiling raw sap really never gets that fare away from you unless you go to sleep. Yes, it is an extra "set of eyes" but not worth the money in my book. Every farm is different, but I would invest in one of the temp dials that can be adjusted from the front so out don't need to mess with the screw in the back ever again. A note generally the temp of syrup changes (for me) throughout the course of a boil so calibrating and sticking to one temp for the night would be a bad choice for me.

[mainebackswoodssyrup]

Had some big changes in drawoff temps on last nights boil, a full 2 degrees form start to end. Started out good and had to chase it for next 4 drawoffs to dial it in. Ended up at 220.5 for syrup. But yes- if I was choosing my first upgrade as a drawoff or RO, I would go for the RO.

[maple flats]

I bought a Smoky Lake auto draw about 5-7 yrs ago, it was their simplicity model. I also ordered a second temperature probe so when I reversed the front pan flow I only had to remove one wire on the auto draw and attach another, It worked extremely well. At first I adjusted to get proper density by starting using 219.3. Then as syrup was drawn off I used a murphy cup and hydrometer to verify and I adjusted as necessary. It worked well, but then 2 or 3 seasons later I bought a Marcland Baro/boil meter to partner with it. Huge improvement. That meter gave the barometer reading where I was and the temperature of boiling water at the Barometer reading. I used that to set the auto draw and it was perfect. Once I had that meter, I discovered how often the barometer actually changes. Some days it was quite steady, but much more often it changed every few minutes. Once I discovered that fact, I tested more often and adjusted as needed. That was huge! From then on, until I sold my evaporator my density was always perfect.
Now I have ordered a new evaporator and I will be getting back into maple syrup production. I need to check to see if I sold that meter, if yes, I will get a new one. The first one was $200, now hopefully I won't need to find out how much the price has changed in 5-7 years. I'll hazard a guess it's significant to say the least.

[maple flats]

The simplicity model is basic, the next models going up help you know when you should add wood and get the best burn. I had that mastered and didn't need help with it. My refueling scheduled worked very well after I added high pressure AUF/AOF (both air under fire and air over fire).

[Ghs57]

I'm considering the same SL unit. It's either that or a new bottler. But when you are a one man show, taking the pressure off of watching this in addition to everything else would be a help. I would like the stack temp too. Although I'm pretty good with my firing schedule, I don't want to regret not having that later-i've learned that the hard way. The baro/boil meter sounds like a good addition also.

[Super Sapper]

I have the Guardian I believe it is called with stack temperature. I would not want to be without the autodraw. The stack temp is also a big help as you are reheating, filtering and bottling all at the same time. I am one man operation and have an RO and a new Silverplate so things go pretty fast.

[mainebackswoodssyrup]

You guys might want to check out this site, he is a member on here and has all sorts of different things. We have one of the temp controllers and it works good on our solar shurflo setup. Just tried it this year. Got poking around and he has baro meter as well. I just ordered one, $58 and change shipped.

https://plymouthsugarworks.com/

[Bricklayer]

I have the barometer from Plymouth sugarworks. It shows the boiling point of water in real time and target temp for syrup based on that reading.
It has been spot on all season.

[JoeJ]

This season, I purchased a Marcland barometer, water boiling point and syrup temperature draw instrument. Very disappointed with the worthless tool. Not believing in the accuracy of this tool, I checked it against the local barometer readings at home for several days before the start of the season. The Marcland barometer reading was always .7 or .8 below the actual mechanical barometer reading, the stated barometer reading on local TV weather and on my phone weather. Plus, the Marcland syrup finishing temperature was never above 219.7 on the instrument. This season, there has been several days when the actual barometer was at 30.25 to 30.33 and the drawoff was set as high as 220.8. The Marcland displayed a number now where near the 220.8.

I have had an autodraw off for 8 years. Besides my filter press, it is the best tool I have in the sugar house. Over the years, I have kept a list of barometer readings and the temperature setting for those readings. That list makes it very simple to set a start point that might have to be adjust slightly. I always set the daily draw off start point .2 higher than my list to insure that the first draw is finished syrup then I will adjust if necessary.

[TCLLMaple]

I have been exploring the AUF/AOF concept and am in process of ordering a 2x8 in the next few weeks. Strongly considering a Smoky Lake 2x8 and talked with them about AOF and they have no history nor interest at this point in exploring it. However, I would consider doing a modification to a new arch to run a pipe into top of firebox and lateral towards the door with holes facing inward. This would have a gate valve as would the AUF. Both coming off the same high pressure blower. Would be interested in anyone's thoughts on this idea.

[TCLLMaple]

I am ready to order a Smoky Lake 2x8 raised Flue SSR and debating between corsair and silverplate. I currently have a 2x4 hobby pro on a corsair. what led you to choose to spent the extra for the silverplate and was it worth it? Also, with the larger opening does the operator run t he rise of heat burn when loading? Thanks

[TCLLMaple]

How do you like the concentric exhaust? I like the concept but have also seen several videos where the draw/draft doesn't appear as strong as it could be. what are you finding with it?

[Ghs57]

How do you like the concentric exhaust? I like the concept but have also seen several videos where the draw/draft doesn't appear as strong as it could be. what are you finding with it?

Off topic, but as far as concentric exhaust goes, I have absolutely no steam in the sap house during boiling. I do not notice any problems with the draw, except that my pan does not produce enough steam (about 40+ gph) to completely extinguish every ember that comes out the chimney. This has not caused any problems, as these are short lived and out before getting anywhere near the ground. There is also no condensation dripping out the drain ports on the hood and the chimney, so everything is extracted. When the AUF is running, there is so much turbulence that it must be off when firing, and there is nearly no ash left in the firebox at the end of a boil. This does lead to ash landing on the roof and nearby surfaces. I can't leave my truck parked near the sap house when boiling or it will need a wash after. My roof is metal, and it will take several rain storms to wash off all the ash.

[Super Sapper]

I got the 2x6 raised flue Silverplate this year. I had the concentric exhaust on my old one and got it with this as well. They suggest 4 to 6 feet of the outer steam pipe above the top of the inner pipe to help extinguish the embers. I have 4 feet and still have some that come out but nothing major. With the 2 x 8 you should get 80 plus gph evaporation rate easily. I am not sure on my evaporation rate as my flow meter on my RO sticks at times and I have not had enough spa to run it more than a 2 hours at a time. I would have to guess that I am hitting at least 75 gph without running it too hard.

[Paul01036]

I bought a Smoky Lake auto draw about 5-7 yrs ago, it was their simplicity model. I also ordered a second temperature probe so when I reversed the front pan flow I only had to remove one wire on the auto draw and attach another, It worked extremely well. At first I adjusted to get proper density by starting using 219.3. Then as syrup was drawn off I used a murphy cup and hydrometer to verify and I adjusted as necessary. It worked well, but then 2 or 3 seasons later I bought a Marcland Baro/boil meter to partner with it. Huge improvement. That meter gave the barometer reading where I was and the temperature of boiling water at the Barometer reading. I used that to set the auto draw and it was perfect. Once I had that meter, I discovered how often the barometer actually changes. Some days it was quite steady, but much more often it changed every few minutes. Once I discovered that fact, I tested more often and adjusted as needed. That was huge! From then on, until I sold my evaporator my density was always perfect.
Now I have ordered a new evaporator and I will be getting back into maple syrup production. I need to check to see if I sold that meter, if yes, I will get a new one. The first one was $200, now hopefully I won't need to find out how much the price has changed in 5-7 years. I'll hazard a guess it's significant to say the least.

Very cool information, thanks for sharing.