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View Full Version : Looking for some advice on a pan.



DavyJones
02-04-2008, 11:47 AM
Hello all it's good to be back. I'm starting to get anxious and wish I could start tapping my trees but I'm still at least a week away. I'm going to upgrade this year from my stainless converted half keg to a flat pan. Hopefully this will fair better at boiling then my (takes forever) keg system. Though I have to say it did work but I spent a fortune in propane. So a buddy is cutting me out a 2'x3' flat stainless pan and pre-heater pan and another friend will be tig welding that this week I hope. I visited the scrap yard over the weekend and got some good 3/8 plate for the front of my stove and a bunch of pieces of angle for the frame. I'm hopeful the same tig welding buddy has a plasma cutter, I've not asked him yet that 3/8 is going to be a bear to cut out my doorway and cleanout but I'll get it cut one way or another.
So I've been doing some reading and some of the smaller systems have their pan's seperated so they syrup flows around the pan. I don't get it. Perhaps because I've not seen any actual pictures down inside the pan so I am not sure should I have my buddy make those seperators inside for me? I see the pans my size are seperated into 3 sections so you've got 2 dividers in there. It looks like the dividers, again hard to tell from the photos I've seen, go from one side of the pan to the other and are spot welded on there. The part I can't see is obviusoly there is some hole cut in the divider at some point and I would think that the holes would be at opposite ends of each other. The diagrams I have seen show the syrup flow from the pre-heater pan to the oppisite corner towards the front of the main pan. So I would guess that the hole for the first divider were the pre-heater drips in would be the far side of that and then the next divider would be towards the back. Is it just a hole cut in at the ends? I've also been reading that a good pan you should be able to reverse the flow so you'd have 2 draw off one on each side of your main pan and then you'd have 2 drains on your pre-heater. I guess with that said then you'd have holes on both dividers at both ends and some way to plug one up so you'd be able to reverse the flow.

If anyone has any pictures or can describe how I should cut the holes in my dividers I would appreciate it. If anyones interested I'll be posting pictures as I build my arch too.
Thanks
David

royalmaple
02-04-2008, 12:34 PM
Your dividers are open at one end, or say cut out at an angle so you have an opening on one end so the syrup goes through that, then the next partition the opening is at the opposite side. So the syrup has to snake through the pan. zig zagging through the pan.

On reverse flow pans you just are putting sap on the other side of the pan and zig zagging to the opposite side, still only have the one opening on the partitions just sending new sap in from the other side you were drawing off on previously.

DavyJones
02-04-2008, 12:50 PM
Ok so whats behind the actual physics of the flo? unless your actually drawing off sap then I wouldn't think that just because you have some holes in opposite ends of the dividers it's not actually going to flow. I'm just trying to understand this. Thanks again

David

Gary R
02-04-2008, 01:09 PM
Gravity and the fact that syrup is heavier than sap. The sap is put in at the top of the evaporator at a slow but constant rate. This higher level of sap in the first section of the pan forces (gravity) the heavy stuff through the small opening in the far corner of where the sap entered. because it wants to "seek" level. As the heavy stuff enters the next section, it pushes even heavier sap (closer to syrup) toi the next section and so on. Hope this helps. If you search online there is an acticle written by a proffesor that explains it in detail. I can't remember the site but I have a copy of it on paper.

Fred Henderson
02-04-2008, 02:23 PM
I was taught that the cold pushes the hot. So if you got a gallon of syrup at 219 drg that is ready to draw then that behind it is somewhat cooler because it is not syrup yet.

DavyJones
02-04-2008, 02:34 PM
So about how big should I make these holes at the end of the dividers? The dividers I will be about the same height as my pan which is going to be 8" so would you just drill a couple 2", 3", etc... holes at one end towards the bottom of the divider or would you just cut out a corner diagonally? Does it matter?
Thanks
David

RileySugarbush
02-04-2008, 02:59 PM
Notching out a corner either diagonally or with a rectangular works well. It is easier to drain the pan if you leave it open all the way to the bottom, so drilling a hole is not the best idea.

DavyJones
02-04-2008, 03:16 PM
Thank you everyone for the advice. I'll be sure to post pictures of my arch when I am done.

Thanks again

David

Gary R
02-04-2008, 07:37 PM
Google "physics of maple syrup". Look for Larry R. Yoders article. It explains things pretty well. By the way, I had an Aunt and her family that lived in Rochester and my parents lived in New Brighton. Your near an urban area. Do your neighbors think your crazy? I imagine you can get lots of help when people start smelling your syrup! Good luck building. I'm up near Franklin and I will collect tomorrow morning before the day long rain.

Jim Brown
02-04-2008, 08:57 PM
Gary R. You should not have any problems with water with those buckets you showed me. the lids appear to snap on tight The sap should run tomorrow it sure didn't run today we had the vac turn on and only pulled 30 gallons in 3 hours
Not worth the gas to run the gen. Oh well tomorrow is another day! Stop by we got everything hooked up and the sugarhouse cleaned out and spit shined ready to go.Evap and float boxes put together- new Marcland draw off wired up and programed-steamaway and pans hot water rinsed- stock tanks hot water rinsed- RO tanks moved into the garage and plumbed up and hot water rinsed-RO powered up.We plan on tapping our main sugar bush this weekend(500 taps) We are ready NOW! Bring on the Sap!

Jim