Shurflo kicking out.... Overheating?

[blucoondawg]

Last spring was my first try at running lines and a pump. Started out with a shurflo 4048. Only had something like 52 taps on 2 lines with this setup, run direct to a manifold on the pump. Pump is 12v running of ink bird temp control and a 12v power supply. This setup is mounted in a large plastic tote box and I had it sitting outside on a set of saw horses.

Anyways the issue I had is I would go out there and the pump wouldn't be running. Everything seemed to have power. I unplug the AC cord from the inkbird and immediately plug it back in and it would fire up and seemed to run forever until I shut it off or the temp control kicked it out as it normally would. Any idea what would be causing the fail to start issue? I'm not for sure but I think it was starting then some sort of temperature overload on the pump kicked it out and it was then disabled until I unplugged and reset the power, maybe that's not possible, I don't know. But I was pulling my hair out over it, obviously the setup on a temp control isn't doing me any good if I can't rely on the darn pump to turn on in the morning when it should.

Was a pretty disappointing result for my first try, I also got the flu in the middle of season and that put me down pretty good and I didn't have much time off work, so it was wasted season anyways, but I would really like to get this figured out so I can stick with the vacuum and eliminate the need too collect bags in my limited time. I don't know if being in that plastic box is enough to overheat it, thought about moving it over into a shed and mounting it out in the open on a board if that would help? Or just saying to hell with it and buying a Guzzler. I don't know but I need to do something to figure it out. The pump worked real nice when I was around to make sure it was running.

[maple flats]

Did you have a recirculation loop? It may need one, from the destination tank, run a 3/16 line back to the manifold feeding the pump, add a needle valve or use a clamp on the line to reduce the flow, you want just enough to keep the diaphragm wet. They can run dry but perform far better if kept wet. If the destination tank is too far away, you can also just put a tee in the line from the pump, and run a 3/16 or 5/16 line back to the manifold and restrict that flow. This may eliminate the issue.

[BAP]

Is the sap coming out of the pump going straight into a tank with no resistance? Or are you pumping it uphill so it creates pressure? If the output of the pump is creating pressure then possibly the pressure switch in the pump is shutting it off. The pressure switch is adjustable, you can adjust it so that the pump has to build up more pressure before shutting off.

[blucoondawg]

Did you have a recirculation loop? It may need one, from the destination tank, run a 3/16 line back to the manifold feeding the pump, add a needle valve or use a clamp on the line to reduce the flow, you want just enough to keep the diaphragm wet. They can run dry but perform far better if kept wet. If the destination tank is too far away, you can also just put a tee in the line from the pump, and run a 3/16 or 5/16 line back to the manifold and restrict that flow. This may eliminate the issue.

Geeze guys, I can't believe I never thought to check this after I posted that question. But to answer your question yes I did include a recirculation line on my manifold with a needle valve. I been getting things set up the last few days, going to work at it again this year and see what happens with it. I don't even know if it's the pump overheating or what is causing the condition. Today I went out there and fired it up and recirculated some water and then closed all the valves besides the outlet and completely dead headed it for a bit and it didn't shut off. I don't know I'm at a loss.

[blucoondawg]

Falls right into a tank next to the pump box, depending on how the tank is sitting it could get a loop in the discharge causing it to have to push up the height of the tank but it's just a 210 gallon plastic pickup bed tank so not tall.
Sorry, I forgot completely to check this after I asked the question. I must not have notifications working on here anymore.
They is a good suggestion though if it is that pressure switch maybe it's dry all the way low, I'll have to look at that but if that shut it down would it stay shut down all day until I came home and unplugged the power to reset it out would it eventually start again? I thought about building that switch from the get go just to eliminate any possible issue it may cause, maybe I should have

[SeanD]

I had a similar issue in my first pump box with a Shurflo where I used an old computer power supply as my ac/dc converter. It turns out it was the power supply that was getting too warm. I ended up building more boxes and using true 12v power supplies like yours, so I never really had to fix it. That said, I don't think those pumps have a temp fault.

I don't think it's the wet/dry of the diaphragm. The pressure switch is a possibility, but you've almost ruled out the conditions that could lead to that tripping. It is adjustable on some pumps, but I've never messed with that.

I spent the off season chasing my tail on a Shurflo 5059 that was working inconsistently. In the end, the way I found the problem was by replacing one part at a time until I found out what it was. You could buy the whole head asssembly and try that or replace it outright and do the troubleshooting with the old one during a freeze. It wouldn't be a wasted effort if it turns out to be something small and simple. It's good insurance to have spare parts on hand.

By the way, my 5059 problem was the bearings in the drive assembly were seizing. Apparently, once in a while the drive shaft would grab it and turn it so it would appear to be working fine. Then it would lose grip and not work at all. It was only when I had the spare parts beside it that I realized the little hub was not turning freely.

Good luck. A lot of people use Shurflos, so anything you find out will help the next guy.

[blucoondawg]

I had a similar issue in my first pump box with a Shurflo where I used an old computer power supply as my ac/dc converter. It turns out it was the power supply that was getting too warm. I ended up building more boxes and using true 12v power supplies like yours, so I never really had to fix it. That said, I don't think those pumps have a temp fault.

I don't think it's the wet/dry of the diaphragm. The pressure switch is a possibility, but you've almost ruled out the conditions that could lead to that tripping. It is adjustable on some pumps, but I've never messed with that.

I spent the off season chasing my tail on a Shurflo 5059 that was working inconsistently. In the end, the way I found the problem was by replacing one part at a time until I found out what it was. You could buy the whole head asssembly and try that or replace it outright and do the troubleshooting with the old one during a freeze. It wouldn't be a wasted effort if it turns out to be something small and simple. It's good insurance to have spare parts on hand.

By the way, my 5059 problem was the bearings in the drive assembly were seizing. Apparently, once in a while the drive shaft would grab it and turn it so it would appear to be working fine. Then it would lose grip and not work at all. It was only when I had the spare parts beside it that I realized the little hub was not turning freely.

Good luck. A lot of people use Shurflos, so anything you find out will help the next guy.

You may have made me stumble on to the issue. I am using basically a computer power supply, it's not a old one it's one I bought off the net, I bought one tasted for way more power than I'd use so I figured it would be ok but I've been wondering if that isn't my issue. I've thing I did not do last year was take a multimeter and check at the lower supply when the pump was dead to ensure the power supply was making power, it very well could have been that issue. What power supplies did you use?