Auto draw-off help

[mapling4fun]

I bought a Auber 2362 pid controller and wired it up to the instructions. I moved the neutral wire for the valve from pin 14 to 11 for the NC position. I also changed the setting as it also states. The issue I am having is that when the probe reaches temp nothing happens. Those of you that have these controllers am I missing something or have something switched up. 23080

[Bricklayer]

What do you have your HY setting set for in the settings ?

I have mine set for 0.1 that means when you reach say 219 it will only open the valve at 219.1
Check that and see if it helps.

[Hkb82]

Quick check and found your pid is set to 0.3 for HY from the factory. That could be the issue but unless you changed it it should still work once it’s that 0.3 above set temp.
From the wiring diagrams in the book for your pid I saw non llike my pid is wired. I think you need to run a solid state relay to power your valve depending on what your using. Unless it’s a low powered solenoid valve like it says in the manual. If it’s an electric ball valve style you’ll need to run a ssr I think.
This is how my auto draw is wired and it has the same specs as the one your using. Instead of the heater on this I wired a female plug to be able to unplug my valve when not needed or to clean.
23084

[The Sweet Spot]

I am making an auto draw off for the upcoming season and have a couple of ideas. This will be the first year with my son running the evaporator alone and he is autistic. He is more than capable of being safe and grew up with me boiling sap every year, however he does lose concentration sometimes. Forgeting to add wood and the boil slows down, forget to draw off and unfortunate things can happen. Our sap shack is 100% off the grid with a generator a battery bank and an inverter. There are times when we do not have power and if the solenoid valve is normally closed and before the 1/4 turn valve, we would not be able to draw off. I am considering using a Y or a T with a 1" manual valve on one side and a 1/2" solenoid valve on the other with a 1/4 " copper tubing to reduce the flow of the draw-off instead of another 1/4 turn valve. My reasoning is that would prevent any accident opening the valve allowing the auto draw off to drain the pans too quickly, and if something goes wrong with the power we still have a valve that is still operational. Any advice or experience on this subject is appreciated.

[Pdiamond]

Sweet Spot - That sounds almost like what I have on my Smoky Lake 2 x 4 raised flue syrup pan. Next to the auto-draw off valve is plumbed in a manual draw off valve. If something goes haywire with the auto-draw I can simply crack open the manual valve and let the syrup trickle out. You might be able to look at the set up if you go out to the Smoky Lake website. Goodluck.