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View Full Version : Seeking help for clarifing the cloudy syrup after settling



unclejohn
02-23-2023, 08:14 PM
We have made 22 gallons of tasty, clear, syrup this year. Been a good year and we have already pulled the taps, and cleaned up all messes. One issue bugs me, and perhaps you can help. In past years, we would bring the hot syrup off the wood-fired pan into the kitchen, bring it up to density, pour it into several synthetic conical filters nested inside a wool filters. The inside filter would clog quickly. So we would have to lift it our, pour the contents into the next filter, and repeat as needed.
We would lose syrup with the dirty filter. Burnt fingers. Some of the sludge would go into the next filter, making it worse. And because it slows down the flow, the syrup is cooling rapidly, a sanitation problem. This year, we brought in the hot syrup to the kitchen, brought it up to density, then let it cool, then poured it into a 4 gal glass jug and let it settle for a week. After 3 days, it appears that settling is complete. There is a well-defined surface between the cloudy stuff and clear. We siphon the clear out of the jug, bring it up to 185 degrees, run it through the conical filters which work well, and put it in canning jars that are stored in an oven at 200 F.

Problem is that about 1/6 or 1/7 of our syrup is the cloudy stuff on the bottom. It tastes great but is awful looking- we call it crankcase oil. This season we made about 5 gallons of crankcase oil. I dont want to throw it away- I want to figure out how to clarify it. I have a vacuum filter using a shop vac. The hot crankcase oil clogs the filter and the vacuum starts screaming immediately. Adding DE to the hot stuff doesnt help- the filter plugs and vacuum screams.

So I seek some of your expertise here, you amateur chemists and food scientists! Is there a coagulant that would be effective? Water treatment plants use aluminum sulphate as a coagulant; it is obviously food grade and has no taste impact. Does anyone have experience with it or other safe chemicals? Would some form of electrolysis work? Kitchen-scale centrifugal separation? Please forward this request to anyone you know who might be able to help.

Thanks for your time. John in Missouri (yes- there are syrupmakers in Missouri- see my website www.mosyrup.com that I created to encourage more Missourians to make syrup.)

220 maple
02-23-2023, 11:19 PM
UncleJohn,
Where have you been? Last season I asked on the Missouri page if anyone knew what happened to Uncle John? I got crickets! I assumed the worst! Thought maybe Covid got you, call me if you still have my number! If not PM me would really like to chat again. Your website is impressive. Your buddy in West Virginia.
Mark 220 Maple

DRoseum
02-24-2023, 06:37 AM
My personal suggestion would be to either build a vacuum filter or buy a filter press. Perhaps you have a vacuum filter - you mentioned vacuum screaming? If so, filter after each boil and use DE and it will come out nice. Sounds like you just have too much niter from 20+ gallons to deal with all at once.

You have reached a tipping point when producing over 20 gallons where gravity cone filters will be far more time consuming and less effective than is worth it. I got sick of this issue when only making 6 gallons a year and built a small vacuum filter (worked great) but then bought a SmokyLake stainless short bank press when I upped my tap count and went to vacuum and starting making ~30 gallons a year. It's easily (aside from the RO) one of the best investments you can make. You get crystal clear syrup, nearly no loss of syrup, and you can filter it super fast and maintain proper temperatures the entire time. Count the hours you spend fussing with filtering over the course of the season, multiply by $15 and add the loss of 1/7 of 22 gallons at $50 a gallon and the price of a filter press that will last you a lifetime (and beyond) seems reaallllly reasonable. I have NEVER regretted that purchase. In fact, each night when i filter I think "this is way better than cones, man am I glad I bought this!" LOL.

As for the original vacuum filter.... later I converted it into a vacuum bottling unit. Pulls a vacuum on glass bottles which auto fills the bottle with syrup - lift the nozzle slightly to break the vacuum and it stops filling the bottle. Helps fill all the nooks of the small leaf bottles perfectly without spills or overfills. Very similar to the Leader unit:
https://leaderevaporator.com/vacuum-filler-for-glass-bottles/?gclid=Cj0KCQiA3eGfBhCeARIsACpJNU83LlCe94ZOAwIOBXn C99Zlnq2qrYpGuzeSmtEW2WOz957sGuXqooUaAvKDEALw_wcB

Super Sapper
02-24-2023, 07:46 AM
If it clogs up easily with the Filter Aid in it, you do not have enough Filter Aid added. You could heat it up and run it through some prefilters and then add the Filter Aid and run that through your vacuum filter.

Openwater
02-24-2023, 08:58 AM
My syrup has been coming out crystal clear this year from just an initial pre-filter right off the pan into the finishing pot, then I keep the finishing pot as hot as possible (over 210*) when adding the DE (at least 1 cup per gallon, usually a little more). Once the hot syrup and DE is well mixed I ladle it into the shop-vac vacuum filter with 3 pre-filters and 1 orlon filter.
I think the keys to clear syrup with this set up is: initial pre-filter coming off the pan, using enough DE, run the syrup thru the vac filter HOT.
If the top prefilter in the vacuum set-up gets clogged, I just remove it and keep dumping HOT syrup on the remaining filters.