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nmerritt
01-26-2008, 09:44 PM
I picked up two vacuum pumps that came from a milking parlor and am working on getting one hooked up for this season. Looking at some of the newer pumps, I see mine does not have a way to regulate the vacuum pressure. Not sure what brand it is,(they are old) but can see it has a 3 ½ horse motor. Anyone have something similar to this? I’m curious to know if it will give me enough or too much pressure.

treefinder
01-26-2008, 09:57 PM
just put a vacuum gauge on line with a ball valve . then crack the ball valve to your desire vacuum pressure.

maplwrks
01-27-2008, 06:24 AM
Most dairy operations put the vacuum regulator out on the line near the cows. I would suggest you get a vacuum regulator from a dairy supply or online. You'll need that to keep the vacuum at a constant level so that you don't overheat your pump.

royalmaple
01-27-2008, 07:17 AM
Buy a vacuum regulator. That's what they are made for.

You can get one from parts depot online. They thread right into an 3/4" ips T.

maple maniac65
01-27-2008, 07:00 PM
Vacuum regulator from Grainger is $36.00 item number is 5Z765. You need a regulator on a vacuum pump and should not use a ball valve cracked open.

Pete33Vt
01-28-2008, 03:16 AM
I've used a ball valve cracked open for 15 yrs and have had no problems...

maplecrest
01-28-2008, 06:00 AM
a ball valve is the best way to go, a vac regulator, will blow off at 15 inches if you want higher vac

Breezy Lane Sugarworks
01-28-2008, 06:01 AM
my thought is that a ball valve slightly open is not nearly as consistent. where as a regulator is always changing. if there is a couple extra leaks, the regulator will close a little and get as much vacuum in the woods as is allowed by where the regulator is set. now the ball valve, if it's cracked open it's like another leak out there. if a spout or 2 fall out of a tree the vacuum will drop but the ball valve won't close by itself to compensate a little.

Breezy Lane Sugarworks
01-28-2008, 06:04 AM
they must make adjustable regulators. the dairy one I'm using now with the weight set way at the end will run 20", but the pump won't handle it because of heat, so i have to back it off a little.

gmcooper
01-28-2008, 06:48 AM
The regulators I have seen are all adjustable. The one I have from graingers I could set at what ever level I wanted as Breezy Lane said they will adjust for a leak in the system. If a tap comes loose the regulator lets less air in. With a ball valve your vac levels are just going to drop with any leak.
Just my 2 cents
Mark

Grade "A"
01-28-2008, 06:49 PM
I have the same regulator that Royalmaple is talking about. When I was fooling around with it I had 25 inches of vac. but backed it off to save the pump. Long story short, the regulator was under $20 which is about what you will have into a ball valve and nipple.

treefinder
01-28-2008, 06:58 PM
where did you geta regulator for that price . and what kind of regulator is it ? thanks kevin

gmcooper
01-28-2008, 07:08 PM
Grainger model 5z764 up to 30" and up to 15 cfm $13.66
Model 5z765 up to 30" and up to 54 cfm $35.85
This out of catalog 398 2007-2008

treefinder
01-28-2008, 07:15 PM
i just looked @ it ...thanks kevin

Grade "A"
01-29-2008, 05:38 AM
I got mine here http://www.partsdeptonline.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=117&cart_id=7760217.20769&exact_match=on

brookledge
01-31-2008, 06:32 PM
If you are serious about having a good vacuum system then a regulator is a must!! I've been there done that with a ball valve and unless you want to sit by the vacuum pump all day you will get better results with a regulator. And a regulator will not blow off as previous stated. You can set the amount of vacuum you want 15" 20" 25" or what ever.
The reason it is a must in my opinion is that when you turn on the pump in the morning usually things are still frozen alittle and if you set the valve to say 20" then as the temps go up and the sap starts to flow faster the vacuum will drop unless you close the valve more to compensate. If you have a regulator it will automaticly compensate for the need for more cfm's.
The other thing is that even with a tight system the other thing to remember is that the trees give off gasses which inturn cause the regulators to compensate for that. My neighbor who still uses a ball valve will set the valve and then leave it, he has told me that more than once he has come home after the temps have dropped and things are froze up and his vacuum pump is smoking and over heating because the vacuum is to high and the valve is not letting in enough air.
Sorry for being long winded but having used a ball valve before you will not reget buting one and you will definately increase your yield of sap by using one.
Keith

cropseyvillemark
02-01-2008, 07:49 AM
Keith, I gave my pump a test drive on the bench last night. I put together a small assembly of regulator,guage&moisture trap. when I closed the trap,the regulator would open,but the guage was still showing 30". should I assume that it will come down to a more reasonable level when opened to the releaser & pipeline? I,m still a little worried about over heating if the moisture trap closes.

brookledge
02-03-2008, 10:33 PM
You need to put your regulator at the vacuum pump or atleast before you get to the moisture trap. Otherwise if the moisture trap closes from being filled with sap it's like not having the regulator at all.
Keith

royalmaple
02-04-2008, 06:47 AM
I am not sure what type of regulator you are using but if it is the one like I am using, I got mine from parts depot. You keep unscrewing the top and that will allow more air to enter making a larger leak and not allow the pump to get so high in vacuum. If you have one regulator on there and it is full unscrewed and wide open and not giving you enough break, add another one. Nothing saying you can't use two for more control. Just add on another section of black iron, then T, and put in another regulator on the top of the tee. I didn't want to use the ball valve trick, just for reasons like Keith mentioned. You will find same pump, same tubing, same day but different conditions and that regulator won't be hissing at all and other times its hissing steady. The spring in them will allow for the regulator to vary. Valves won't vary on their own.

CLick on the link above, that is the exact style regulator I use on my systems. They work great, and alot better than 80 bucks or whatever the dealers are charging.

gmcooper
02-04-2008, 08:17 AM
Cropsville,
What kind of vacuum pump are you using? It should be nearly impossible to get 30" reading especially with a regulator on it. As Matt said the regulaor has a screw adjustment to set the level vac you want for a max. Just keep turning and watch the gauge it might take a minute ot settle out.
Mark

lmathews
02-05-2008, 05:47 AM
I dont see why it wold be impossible for it to be 30".I have 3 pumps out of 6 that if I shut off the reg. I can pull the pump up to 29".Dont forget the gauge might have a 1 or 2"reading mistake.

royalmaple
02-05-2008, 06:56 AM
Complete vacuum here on earth is 29.92 inches at sea level.

So if you are getting 30" then you are beating some serious odds.

cropseyvillemark
02-05-2008, 09:40 AM
I'm running a de leval #75 w/2hp motor. the regegulator I have is the one Bascom's sells.with the top screwed all the way out it opens but gives me that high vac reading. the guage is also new,maybe i'll try a different one.

maplecrest
02-05-2008, 10:39 AM
first of all, if you have a 75 with two hp motor at 30 inches you would have a cooking stove. that pump would burn up. at 20 inches i have same pump and it runs warm and smokes heavily. i am using nondetergent 30 wt motor oil in it and it is taking the higher vac better. that regulator basoms sells i could never figure out how to get it to adjust right. and am not suprised at your high vac reading. my next thought for those was to put it in a incomming hole on the releaser to see if it would work better there. i gave up on that type of regulator and went back to valve till i could get a adjustable one from condi. but that only works to 20 inches. the delaval ones i have blow off at 15.

Parker
02-06-2008, 05:15 AM
I have had good luck with the screw-spring type regulators on the smaller pumps (sp-11 and sp-22) I think those types of regulators are rated for 15cfm?,,,,,,,,,,when I was running the surge 76 I had to run 2 in the line,,with the massport 500 I had in hill (50cfm?) I ran the 2 inch weight regulator,,,it is fully adjustabel and worked like a charm,,,,
You know you have a bad leak somewhere in the woods when the pump is running and the regulator are closed,,

treefinder
02-06-2008, 06:50 AM
what is everyone using for motors to run there pumps i have a surge alamo with a 6.5hp honda and it won't run it .pully on pump to big? i can't even start it with the belt on!!

Parker
02-07-2008, 05:23 AM
The surge I had had a 5 hp honda and it worked great,,I think the pulley on all my gas moters are around 3-4"? I can check if you need me to

maple maniac65
02-07-2008, 06:03 AM
If your surge is the rotary vein type a 11 hp gas motor would be ideal. It takes alot to turn this over. Also put a petcock on your realeaser, under the vacuum guage ,so that you can sart it with no load on it.

Parker
02-07-2008, 06:28 AM
I like the petcock idea,,,,but I never had any trouble with the 76 and a honda 5 hp,,,,seems like a 11 hp would use alot more gas and I know they cost alot more than the $250 I paid for the throw away honda,,,,

cropseyvillemark
02-07-2008, 07:37 AM
I tried the test again with a different guage.Pulling through the open moisture trap it ran steady at 15". When the moisture trap closed it went to 25".I turned the regulator top all the way the other way,it read 24". I'm guessing that the regulator is not the best 85$ I've ever spent.

maplecrest
02-07-2008, 09:38 AM
i spent 65 dollars on mine to set on a shelf

Parker
02-08-2008, 05:10 AM
I would not be without one,,if yours does not work correctly bring it back and get one that does,,,you already spent the money,,ought to have one that works