converting from wood to oil....

[goldnut]

I have a 2x6 leader and I am not sure what size BTU oil burner to get. Any help appreciated! Who else has done this and what did you do with the firebox? Bricks? Im looking forward to NEVER cutting wood again! Ken

[maple flats]

Leader suggests a Carlin #102, firing at 3-3.5 gph.

[wiam]

https://leaderevaporator.com/content/Leader-Insulated-Oil-Arch.pdf

I would say these are starting points. When I built my 3x12 I tried several different size and pattern nozzles and pressures before it boiled like I wanted.

[goldnut]

Thank you for the info. I have a few follow up questions now. Should I fill the fire box up to where the grates are? I was going to brick the area and insulate it. Also I see in the link that William posted that leader says to use a 6" stack with oil. I think my stack for wood is at 10" (have to go out and measure) Do you think my draft will be affected by this difference? I am thinking of a damper in the stack if necessary. Ken

[Greg MacWilliam]

Did this conversion last year, yes fill and insulate to the grates, your 10 inch stack should be fine and I put a damper in mine, a couple of tools you will need , a smoke tester, draft meter, oil pressure gauge on the pump. Get an oversized burner so it you need more heat you can get it, bad timing for the price of oil but the 10 min shutdown is worth it

[DocsMapleSyrup]

I converted my 2x8 wood arch to oil last winter. I put in a Carlin 301 with a 3.5 gph nozzle. I think a 201 may have worked but wanted to know for sure I would have enough burner if I needed to burn more oil. 8" stack. I put my burner on the back wall to make it reverse fired and removed my brick and covered the grates with ceramic blanket. My stack temp is 583 degrees and get a nice even boil. In order to make it cost effective, I RO to 12-15 brix and my cost was under $1/gallon for oil. I love it and would never go back to wood.