Pre lashed mainline

[Bricklayer]

Going to try the 1” pre lashed mainline this year for a section of woods we have been talking about tapping for years. It got lots of swampy sections that the mainline has to cross. Also has 1 large area that the mainline will be elevated about 20’ from the swampy area.
Decided to go with pre lashed CDL mainline.
Usually I use the wire finger grips to keep the tubing tight. Not too tight. Just enough to keep it from curling around mainline.
Is this possible with the pre lashed mainline ? Is it necessary ?
I see that to cut tubing and keep the lashing in tact that you put a hose clamp on the tubing around the lashing and then cut the pipe. Does the lashing have to be tightened in any way after installation or during ?

[TapTapTap]

Going to try the 1” pre lashed mainline this year for a section of woods we have been talking about tapping for years. It got lots of swampy sections that the mainline has to cross. Also has 1 large area that the mainline will be elevated about 20’ from the swampy area.
Decided to go with pre lashed CDL mainline.
Usually I use the wire finger grips to keep the tubing tight. Not too tight. Just enough to keep it from curling around mainline.
Is this possible with the pre lashed mainline ? Is it necessary ?
I see that to cut tubing and keep the lashing in tact that you put a hose clamp on the tubing around the lashing and then cut the pipe. Does the lashing have to be tightened in any way after installation or during ?

I installed about 8,000 LF of prelashed for both mainline and wet dry-line last year. I think it worked pretty well but I have the following comments:

- Minimal slope lines should be installed with traditional tubing attached to a wire afterwards. Installing the wire first (and separately) allows for better slope control. The prelashed worked great for moderate to higher pitch slopes.

- Check that your wire is on top for the entire run before you tension to prevent a twist that can cause a sag in your line.

- Prelash is made to use with the spin seal lateral connections. Traditional saddles work but are more hassle because you need to cut the lashing to lift the wire so that the saddle will fit into the hole. But first, you need to secure the lashing with tie wires to prevent the lashing from unraveling. I rented the spin seal tool for something like $100 per day and did all my laterals. Or I thought i had them all! But no big deal I installed saddles. Then on another section I noticed this season that I had forgotten to drill out 4 lateral connections in a row (I didn't notice all last season). Don't get me wrong - I liked the methodology and the great seal but it sucks not having the tool.

- On the finger grip - I don't think you'll need it.

Good luck.

Ken

[TapTapTap]

Bricklayer -
One additional thing I noticed:
We bought green and black prelashed tubing and noticed that the green was a lot easier to work with. The black seemed to be significantly stiffer. I'm not sure if this is true across all lines of HDPE tubing.
Ken

[Bricklayer]

I am leaning towards blue mainline.
Only because it’s all I’ve ever used and have had no problem with it yet.
It being a colder thicker bush. I Probley should go with black. But I do like the ability to see what’s going on in the blue pipe.
I’ve traced many leaks and low sags just by looking through the mainline and seeing the big bubble of sap just sitting there.
So will Probley go with blue from CDL.