Mainline Side Ties

[SeanD]

One would think by taking down and putting up mainlines every year, I would get really good at setting up a mainline. Nope.

My question is really about using side ties effectively. At three points along the mainline, the mainline is against trees. It's not really a bend in the line, but there's just enough friction to hold it at a point. When I tie to trees opposite the ones touching the line, the line comes off those trees, but there is now a "bounce" in the mainline.

I'll go back and add some supports, but is any "bounce" reasonable? When I used ratchet straps to pull harder to the side (and get the bounce out), I shattered a gripple (again). I have about a 2-3% slope on the line.

When the line was against the three trees, there was little to no bounce. Is it okay to put a piece of scrap wood between the tree and the line and have solid contact (and a straighter line)?

[Kh7722]

Kinda having a hard time understanding question but, i would personally not let mainline touch any trees. If you can add more side ties to tighten it up so it does not touch that is optimal. Always be sure to pull away from trees essentially using side ties as an “outside” corner pulling away from trees and not using the tree as pivot point. This helps leeps the shape of the tubing. We make the mainline as tight as a piano string this way and works out well

[mainebackswoodssyrup]

Your best bet is to get them off the trees and add more side tension points in the bouncy sections.

[christopherh]

I often use wire ratchet tensioners at times. They can help a lot.

[VTnewguy]

Anytime you have a "longer" sidetie it's going to be bouncy. Need to add more sidetie to it or a support.

[SeanD]

Thanks for the feedback. It's definitely bouncier where the side ties are long. Nothing I can do about that. One side has more trees and closer trees than the other. It's a bummer. The line is relatively straight until I add the side ties. It looks a little better when I spread out the points where the side wire connects to the mainline wire, but still.

As I'm tightening the ends, I frequently stop and see what kind of play there is where I'll have a tie. Is there an eyeball test to know when more should be tightened from the end rather than tie from the side - like 1'-2' sway left or right over 30' or something ratio like that?

[BAP]

Are you taking this line down every year? If so, I would let the line rub against the trees if it is supporting the line well and keeping it straight. 2-3 months rubbing against the tree is not going to hurt the tree and if the line is more stable then leave it. If the line stays up year round then you need to get it off the trees.

[Brian]

I don't mind my main lines touching trees, I go out of my way to stager my lines to touch trees and then go back and put in my tie backs this makes the main lines tight.

[Brian]

I do bounce my main lines every once in a wile to keep them from growing into the trees!!

[TapTapTap]

When you say "bounce" I think you mean sags between side ties.

I agree about avoiding direct contact with a tree where possible.

I have also moved away from side ties on shallow slopes and use posts with ratchets for tensioning instead. I find that I can visually check the slope best if the tubing is running in a straight line which you get with posts. The side ties pull the mainline back and forth so that you can't view it easily.

Ken

[SeanD]

Yes, these lines come down every year. I agree, it's much harder to visually check the slope when it's got some pulls to the side.

When I say bounce, I mean I can push down on the top of the line and it will bounce up and down, not side to side. I think a few posts will be the fix for this year. Next year, I might run the line to the other side of a couple of trees that might help it run a little straighter after tying it to the side. It was in the mid 50s yesterday, so I'm curious what kind of play I'll find today when it's 28-30.