Sap Boil Time for Steam Pans

[Swingpure]

Assuming you always maintained the perfect 2” level in all of the pans, would the syrup produced be different if you boiled for 4 hours, 8 hours, 12 hours, or 24 hours?

The real question is: is there a perfect boil length of time?

I would like to make as much amber coloured syrup as possible. I know there are a number of variables that go into what colour is produced, but as an example, if I did two 5 hour boils, instead of one 10 hour boil, would it make a difference?

[Pdiamond]

I don't know of a way to nail down a boil time Gary. I boil until I get syrup off the pan. I have an auto-draw system that I pre-set usually on the high side so that at the end of the day I can adjust with hot sap to the correct Brix. Using your steam pans will be determined by how fast they boil off and that change in the sap itself. It can go really fast when it happens, so stay on top of it. those bubbles will get smaller and smaller and begin to come together and all of a sudden they rise, FAST!!!
You are at or really close to syrup at this stage.

[berkshires]

Could you say more about what you would be doing differently to create these different boil times?

GO

[Swingpure]

Could you say more about what you would be doing differently to create these different boil times?

GO

I was thinking around the four hour mark, I would start consolidating the pans into one and around the five hour mark pour off the final pan. Any pan emptied, would be refilled with Sap to start the next 5 hour cycle.

After first posting this thread, on an almost unrelated older post, I saw that Groves did the following:

“ If you value the lightest syrup possible, you will start will all of your pans full and as they get dangerously low in sap level, you will consolidate them into one pan and put all of your new sap into the now empty pans.”

Gary

[DRoseum]

Yes consolidating in these smaller batches will yield lighter colored syrup. The hard part on a wood fired arch is lifting those all off and dumping them and refilling them without scorching pans or getting smoke/ash everywhere.

[Swingpure]

Yes consolidating in these smaller batches will yield lighter colored syrup. The hard part on a wood fired arch is lifting those all off and dumping them and refilling them without scorching pans or getting smoke/ash everywhere.

Thanks, I also have to consider how well my insulation stays in place between and at the ends of the pan.

At least for the first boil or two, I will keep it simple and just try and make syrup, whatever the colour is, and we will see what I end up with it.

If down the road, if I want lighter, I may give it a try for shorter batches. I designed my arch so that it is easy to grab on to the pan ends. If ash does fly up in a big way, it will become a non starter.

[berkshires]

I was thinking around the four hour mark, I would start consolidating the pans into one and around the five hour mark pour off the final pan. Any pan emptied, would be refilled with Sap to start the next 5 hour cycle.

After first posting this thread, on an almost unrelated older post, I saw that Groves did the following:

“ If you value the lightest syrup possible, you will start will all of your pans full and as they get dangerously low in sap level, you will consolidate them into one pan and put all of your new sap into the now empty pans.”

Gary

Okay, this makes sense. But it's not what you described, when you asked about keeping 2" in each pan. I couldn't reconcile the two, which is why I asked what you had in mind.

GO

[Sugar Bear]

Swingpore.

Remember to build your stack as tall as you possibly can. The taller it is the better your draft will be and THE MORE IT WILL REMAIN even when you take pans off for syrup removal.

If your drafting well you will find it easy to remove pans with nearly no smoke/ash discharge.

Damp wood knocks down draft as well. If your forced to feed both dry and damp wood, save the dry for when full combustion and optimum draft is critical.

[Swingpure]

Swingpore.

Remember to build your stack as tall as you possibly can. The taller it is the better your draft will be and THE MORE IT WILL REMAIN even when you take pans off for syrup removal.

If your drafting well you will find it easy to remove pans with nearly no smoke/ash discharge.

Damp wood knocks down draft as well. If your forced to feed both dry and damp wood, save the dry for when full combustion and optimum draft is critical.

Thanks again for the tips.

The length of the stovepipe for my summer tests was 9’ tall as in the picture. I will be adding another 3’ section for a total of 12’ and it will be dead straight up and down.

The wood I have for it comes from four sources. I have up to 3 face cords (which I hope to only use part of) which is two years seasoned in a covered shed. I have wood right beside the evaporator, (about 3 face cords) that is one year seasoned, that is sort of out in the open, but is covered by a piece of poly as shown in the picture. I also have about ten bins worth of construction pine scraps, five of which you see in the picture. I also have about 2 face cords of 2 year seasoned wood in another location that is open on one side with poly on top.

To your point I will save the covered wood for the critical times, when the pans might come off.


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[esetter]

Keep a 5 gallon bucket of water close. When you consolidate the pans , pour it in the empty pan. It keeps the hole covered so heat won't escape and keeps the what would be empty pan from scorching. Then , use that hot water to clean both pans at the end of the day. Just my batch boiling method!