Using a 12 volt water pump (RV style)

[Hogsback Maple Syrup]

I have been reading threads, and I came across some people talking about using a 12 volt RV pump to use where you do not have electricity.
Is the SHURflo 12 volt diaphragm water pump the best to use in situations where you have either 5/16 or 3/16 lines where there is little slope?
Does this type of pump need liquid in the line to draw a vacuum or will it create a vacuum if there is little to no liquid in line?
Can you use this at the end of your mainline and then just pump it into a holding tank? How many taps is recommended if using this type of pump?
I am looking for an economical way to create a vacuum in a secluded area.

Thanks, Bob

[MISugarDaddy]

Shurflo is the most commonly used RV pump based on comments on this forum. We actually have 4 of them on separate mainlines with anywhere from 70 to over 100 taps connected to each mainline. They definitely generate more vacuum if there is liquid supplied to them continuously. Some people have connected recirculation lines to their pumps to help maintain higher vacuum. We have not done this because we have enough liquid supplied by the mainline connections to maintain constant vacuum. All our pumps are located below the mainline they are connected to and pump sap up then into holding tanks. All our pumps are 12 volt and connected to deep cycle batteries. Until last year, that required collecting the batteries daily and recharging them at night for the next day. Last year, at the suggestion of a fellow Trader, we purchased two 900 watt propane generators that we use to run battery chargers connected to the batteries. Although last season was shorter than normal, we used less than 30# of propane for each generator and didn't have to bring in the batteries the entire season.
Gary
PS: We do bring in the pumps at night to prevent them from freezing. It is very easy because we have them connected with cam-lock fittings. When the pumps are not in place, the sap flows by gravity into separate tanks. Some people have their pumps in heated enclosures, but we chose to keep things as simple as possible and just remove the pumps when the temperature is going to be below freezing.

[Biz]

I agree, a Shurflo pump is a good way to generate vacuum economically and increase sap yield significantly, if you don't have slope. The pump will pull low vacuum, usually 5-10", until sap starts to flow, then it increases up to perhaps 20" or more once sap starts pumping. How many taps do you have? I've had good luck running 3/16 lines into the pump, that will be cheaper than running a mainline. Limit the number of taps per line to 20-25 for best sap yield. I use a solar charger or AC battery charger to keep everything powered. Have fun!!

Dave

[bmbmkr]

PS: We do bring in the pumps at night to prevent them from freezing. It is very easy because we have them connected with cam-lock fittings. When the pumps are not in place, the sap flows by gravity into separate tanks. Some people have their pumps in heated enclosures, but we chose to keep things as simple as possible and just remove the pumps when the temperature is going to be below freezing.


To reply to MISugarDaddy, I second the cam locks. They are great for putting the pumps on and taking off. I use a pump in the sugarhouse to pump water through a tankless propane water heater in the sink from my permeate tank. I can swap it back out to the woods the next morning in just a minute.

There are several threads in the forum sharing this tid bit hat has saved me a tremendous amount of time in the last few years. I leave my pumps out all season.

Screen strainers- I run the Shurflo strainer screens between the manifold and the pump and between the mainline and pump on those two setups. As the temp drops and the sap begins to freeze, the screen stops any ice from coming into the pump. Any sap in the pump will be pumped out before it freezes and damages the diaphragms. The strainers also catch whose wood chips from the tap holes. The pump generates and maintains a small amount of heat from it's electric motor and friction. I have inadvertently let a pump run all night at under 25F, with no damage. Even when I get out to shut them al off, they sit out all season and have yet to have any damage from freezing. I have a storage tote settin over them to protect from rain/snow. I've had the lines thaw and sap start running before I was able to get out and turn the pumps on. The newer Shurflo 4008's will let sap flow through when they are off.

On a 4 lateral, manifold setup I have with 60 taps (45 sugars, 15 reds), I've had it pull 27in"/Hg and put 150 gallon in the tank many times, the Wx has to be near perfect for those big runs, but it is fun when it happens. If I could get that kind of vacuum on my mainlines I'd be buying a bigger evaporator sooner than later. I'm putting inkbird temp controllers and more solar panels up this year- 200 watts per battery per pump (4 sets). I HATE carrying batteries 100 yards worse than I hate carrying my gas pump 300 yards to pump my sap 2x to get it to the sugar house.

I have had more luck with several laterals coming into a 1/2" PVC manifold than on mainline. My mainlines are 3/4" 600 & 800' long both with around 275 taps. I have both 3/16 and 5/16 laterals running into my mainlines. I never got more than 10"/Hg on my mainlines. I have leaks, lots of squirrels, and the occasional tree limb or something. I have a short season down here in southern OH, so it takes me the whole season to find & fix leaks on 3 1/2 miles of tubing. Leaks are much easier to find when the sap is running. I also have a valve on each leg of the manifold to isolate the leaks. I wish I'd done that the first year. Another huge time saver. It would be nice if there was a 5/16 and 3/16 valve you could put on your laterals coming into the mainline to help with this. Might be an idea for some entrepreneur out there.

Good luck and Happy Boiling this year!!

[NhShaun]

I have been reading through most of the Shurflo or 12v vac systems on this forum for a while trying to plan my set up this season. I ran a test run on around 12 trees on a 5/16 line last season with a 4008 pump and i was very impressed at the volume. I have decided to set up 3 or 4 pumps this season ahead but can not decide if i should run a mainline(1/2 or 3/4) with 5/16 laterals(5-10 taps/line)or just individual 5/16 or 3/16(where possible) to a manifold. Can these pumps handle multiple 1/2" mainlines to a manifold? Keeping it around 100 taps total per pump. Some area are relatively flat so i figured using mainline strung on steel cable would keep things taught and eliminate sags.

What I do know is that adding a recirculation line is essential if you don't have much slope down to your pump inlet. Strainers are mandatory as well. The pump can be placed low to the ground to achieve decent slope on lines in flat areas but is still capable of pumping the sap up to a tank 4-10ft effectively.(this method could cause freezing damage if not drained fully during hard freezes)

The 4008 is good for around 100 taps and the 4048 around 150 taps(varies if using mainline or smaller tubing and amount of slope)

It is worth the extra investment to put valves on each line coming into a manifold, as well as gauges at the top of each line.(Helpful in locating leaks and allows you to continue collecting even if a line gets damaged or taken out by a tree) camlock quick connect fittings are basically invaluable in this industry as well.

These diaphragm pumps are low CFM and require very tight tubing systems, So using a tubing tool or making sure your fittings are seated fully will save you a lot of headache down the road. This also means on flatter areas with mainline need to be tight and free of sags(Lots of users have reported pulling sap uphill with smaller 5/16 & 3/16 lines so those don't seem to be as picky. Though lines that drain naturally are ideal)

These pumps can typically run for one to three days(or overnight)on a fully charged deep cycle battery around 60-100 Ah. Having solar will help in remote areas depending on your sun exposure and cloud coverage but you may still need to swap batteries or charge in place when big runs hit back to back. Having a spare battery will be helpful.

[Biz]

Good info in this thread!

I just bought a couple of these 1/4" ball valves to try on my sap lines. Will need an adaptor.

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/default.aspx?catid=437&clickid=popcorn

I normally use a few 3/16" lines connected to the pump but this season I have put up a 300' 3/4" mainline to compare how well the Shurflo pump works on it. I am debating on whether to use 5/16 laterals or 3/16. Some portions have very little drop on the lateral so maybe the 3/16 laterals will work better? Will have a few gauges out for sure.

My pumps are automatically purged of sap by the S4 controller when they shut down, and bypass valve is opened. Haven't had any freeze problems or blown fuses in a few years and they have been left out down to single digit (F) temps.

Dave

[DRoseum]

I built a manifold using push connect fittings and 3/8 OD poly tubing. I have 3/8 x 1/4 tees with 1/4 valves on each line and used 3/16 barb x 1/4 stem fittings found at freshwatersystems.com.
https://www.freshwatersystems.com/products/dmfit-stem-barb-straight-connector-1-4-od-stem-x-3-16-id-barb

This worked great for easily disconnecting lines and being able to isolate them via the valves if necessary.

Video of it here at 1:40 seconds:
https://youtu.be/ni3ScN3lhZs

Diagram here
https://www.roseummaple.com/2021/02/316-tubing-vacuum-system.html

[82cabby]

I built a manifold using push connect fittings and 3/8 OD poly tubing. I have 3/8 x 1/4 tees with 1/4 valves on each line and used 3/16 barb x 1/4 stem fittings found at freshwatersystems.com.
https://www.freshwatersystems.com/products/dmfit-stem-barb-straight-connector-1-4-od-stem-x-3-16-id-barb

This worked great for easily disconnecting lines and being able to isolate them via the valves if necessary.

Video of it here at 1:40 seconds:
https://youtu.be/ni3ScN3lhZs

Diagram here
https://www.roseummaple.com/2021/02/316-tubing-vacuum-system.html


Thank you so much for taking the time to put this information together. It is really really helpful for those of us who are in the 100 tap range! Would you mind telling what the grey box is you use to contain the electrical connections?

[DRoseum]

Thank you so much for taking the time to put this information together. It is really really helpful for those of us who are in the 100 tap range! Would you mind telling what the grey box is you use to contain the electrical connections?

Anytime! Yes - its an enclosure that I put the power supply in and added a switch and those cheap temp controllers. In retrospect I would simplify things a bit and remove the gfci outlet from within the enclosure and just swap out the main outlet I plugged the unit into.

Ogrmar ABS Plastic Dustproof Waterproof IP65 Junction Box Universal Durable Electrical Project Enclosure With Lock (8.6"x6.7"x4.3") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KW2JBJ3/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_ZA2WPN7W9HNWW5H8Q6SW?_en coding=UTF8&psc=1

Aitrip 3pcs W1209 12V DC Digital... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VNVWCBS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Also, the over temperature control is probably overkill. I wasn't sure if running the pump continuously on a warm day inside that cooler would overheat it. I don't think it builds enough heat to be of real concern.

[MISugarDaddy]

All four pumps that we use are each connected to approximately 100' of 3/4" mainlines and all laterals are 5/16". We routinely pull anywhere from 18" to 25" of vacuum with these pumps, unless of course a tree rat (squirrel) has decided to nibble on a lateral.
Gary