My first 3/16 tubing run!

[Swingpure]

I wasn’t going to run any lines for another 2 to 3 weeks until just before it snows, but it was just such a nice day.

I learnt a few lessons.

The roll of 3/16 tubing I was using, was the same roll I used to make my drops. I must have tangled up some of the tubing while making the drops, because after about 40 feet, the tubing was tangled and got more tangled as I tried to fix it. A half hour later I was on the go again.

The first lesson I learnt, other then for goodness sake, never tangle your tubing again, is if you are alone, don’t try to unroll the tubing and pull it tight at the same time. Just first unroll the line on the ground where you want it and then go back and pull it tight and secure it with the end hook. Then you can go back and add the drops.

Lesson two, don’t be afraid to use trees you are not tapping for support on long runs.

I had no problems with using the tension hooks or the one hand tool.

I remembered Dr. Perkins analogy about tobogganing down a hill. I finish with a decent slope. If it was a roof it would have been 3/12 pitch or 14°, not sure what slope that would be.

I did not break any records running it and I am glad I did it before the snow fell as there was some challenging walking areas.


https://youtu.be/Me6ae10PYbw

[TapTapTap]

There's a tool for that too - tubing reel with hook. We hang it on the ML and pull the tubing off as we zig and zag up the hill Couldn't live without it.

https://bascommaple.com/collections/sap-collection-tools/products/mtrl

[bmbmkr]

There's a tool for that too - tubing reel with hook. We hang it on the ML and pull the tubing off as we zig and zag up the hill Couldn't live without it.

https://bascommaple.com/collections/sap-collection-tools/products/mtrl

I made 3 of these with a square piece of 1x12 screwed onto the bottom of a coffee can, shorth length of nylon rope and a swivel with a carabiner clipped through it. I can hang it on the mainline or a tree limb, or tie off the tubing at the top of the hill and carry it over the mountain. Definitely a necessity for running tubing whether store bought or home made.

[Swingpure]

I woke up to some snow on the ground and slightly below freezing temperatures. The snow all disappeared by noon. I ran two more lines in the afternoon. No problems with the line tangling today, I was very careful on how it came off the roll and I just unrolled it where it should go and then came back and pulled it tight. I learnt how to use the tension hooks better.

I had hoped the 500’ roll would do both runs, but was coming up short on the second run. There was too long of a final run to the collection barrel. I then went back and changed the route and connected up 6 taps, that I was going to use buckets on. I lost four taps, but picked up two new ones with reroute.

I drilled holes in the collection barrels for the line to enter them. 11/64 drill bit seemed to be just right for the 3/16 line to fit tightly in the hole.

Two more lines to go.

[Swingpure]

I ran the final two of five lines today. I still have to install the drops on the fifth line. The roll of tubing came up 20’ short on the final line to reach my planned collection area (which is shared with another line), so I had to reroute the line to a new collection area. I do not have as long and as steep final run on the line, but the entire line is sloped. I doubt I will get as much natural vacuum with this line as the others, but it will have 12 taps collecting into one spot. Because it is an unplanned collection area, my collection container will only hold 16 gallons, but that should be good for most days and some other days I may have to dump it twice.

On the fourth line, I finally caught on with the one handed tool, when I was using the vise grips part of it, to hold it as a separate tool. Earlier I tended to still grip part of the longer handles. Being by myself I again first strung out the line with a little tension, then I came back and pulled it tight. I then walked back and distributed the drops, hanging them on the line, so that they were off the ground and handy to grab when you needed them.

I certainly was better on the fifth line versus the first line with using the tension hooks, one handed tool and even unrolling the line.

Other than a couple drops, I have no extra tubing left. Do I need tubing to make repairs to the line during the season?

[buckeye gold]

Yes you will need line for repairs. I would recommend you buy a whole new roll and finish your run you were short on and then keep the rest for repairs, future drops and new lines in the future. There is no such thing as lines that never get damaged. A producer always needs to have tubing on hand. It does not go bad, just keep it out of the sun. May as well buy some repair couplers/spices and have on hand too and some extra tees and taps.

[Swingpure]

Yes you will need line for repairs. I would recommend you buy a whole new roll and finish your run you were short on and then keep the rest for repairs, future drops and new lines in the future. There is no such thing as lines that never get damaged. A producer always needs to have tubing on hand. It does not go bad, just keep it out of the sun. May as well buy some repair couplers/spices and have on hand too and some extra tees and taps.

Thanks,

I did just that this morning, a friend was going by CDL and is picking me up 500’. I was thinking the exact same thing, I should do it right. I had held off installing any of the drops on the line, just in case I decided to do something different. It will also allow me to add one more tap a little higher up, which should give me 8 more feet of total drop.

I don’t think I have looked so forwarded to March, ever before!

Thank you for the advice.

Gary

[Swingpure]

I know I will not get any vacuum gains, but I have four taps that are close to a collection area. Anything wrong with running a line between the four taps and the collection barrel. The other choice is four buckets.

I get my new roll of line late tomorrow and hope to finish all of the lines Wednesday.

[buckeye gold]

If they're close enough run the line from them all the way to the barrel. It's generally not a good idea to join two 3/16 laterals, especially low on the slope. The line with four is a seperate lateral. If your joining lines you need to go up to 5/16 from that point on. It's not worth compromising flow on a whole lateral for four taps.

[Swingpure]

If they're close enough run the line from them all the way to the barrel. It's generally not a good idea to join two 3/16 laterals, especially low on the slope. The line with four is a seperate lateral. If your joining lines you need to go up to 5/16 from that point on. It's not worth compromising flow on a whole lateral for four taps.

Thanks, it will be a separate line, going directly to the collection barrel.

[Swingpure]

My friend picked up the roll of tubing for me and gave it to me this afternoon. It was 4° C (39° F) and drizzly, but I went out and strung the short 4 tap line and added the taps, then I rerouted the 5th line and ran it so it had the “crux” section at the bottom of the line. I eliminated two taps near the top because they caused the line to flatten out too much.

The fifth line is steep at first, but eventually has a 100 to 125’ run that is on a steady, but not real steep slope, with no taps, then starts to slope better again and then has a fairly steep uninterrupted run. It has 12 taps on it. I still think it will have the least vacuum of the runs, but should have some.

Tomorrow I will finish the drops and then the lines will be set for when the season starts.

[Swingpure]

So I have finished setting up all my lines and all of the drops. I have walked all of the 5 lines looking for any issues and everything looks good.

Just one question, if I put the tubing on 67 tees, 64 went on perfect. For three of them, on one side of the tee, the front edge of the tubing got bent in a little, but it is smooth and flat over the two barbs. Is this a none issue, or will this be an air leak for sure?

Thanks

Gary

[buckeye gold]

It probably bent the tee also. I have that happen a few times a year and I just replace them to be sure. You can wait until sap is flowing and check then, but my feelings are change the now and save the potential problem.

[Swingpure]

I thought I read that ideally one would have 15 to 25 taps on 3/16” lines. None of my runs have that, they range 11 to 14, averaging 12 to 13 taps. I thought I might get some boost in the yield, but because I did not have at least 15, my expectations were low.

By accident I came across this study and they said they had excellent results with as few as 8 taps per line. If true, my expectations have risen a little.

https://www.themaplenews.com/story/update-on-cornell-tests-on-3-16”-maple-tubing/88/

It will be interesting for me to compare the results from the buckets, to three lines that have good slope all the way and two other lines that have good slope at the start and finish, but a flatter, but still sloped section in the middle, that represents a third of the run.

Is it March yet?

[buckeye gold]

swingpure, You will definitely see a difference. The first year will be a dramatic increase, then it'll taper off eaxh year. Cleaning is critical with 3/16th tubing. Even 5 trees are ok for a run. I usually replace my tubing every 3-5 years. I have established a rotation where I do one or two laterals a year.

[Swingpure]

swingpure, You will definitely see a difference. The first year will be a dramatic increase, then it'll taper off eaxh year. Cleaning is critical with 3/16th tubing. Even 5 trees are ok for a run. I usually replace my tubing every 3-5 years. I have established a rotation where I do one or two laterals a year.

Thank you!

I know there is a lot of information on the forum on how to clean the tubing and I will have to find a technique that works with little manpower. My other big challenge is I have to remove my tubing each year, so after it is cleaned, is to find a way to roll up the tubing with the drops attached, without them getting all tangled. I know I should replace the tees and taps each year, which will result in the lines getting a little shorter each time.

I do have a sixth line that only has four taps on a steep slope, which is draining into a collection barrel where another line also drains into. It might be interesting to have it go into a separate 16 gallon barrel on it’s own, just to measure and compare the volumes from the buckets.

[buckeye gold]

Thank you!

I know there is a lot of information on the forum on how to clean the tubing and I will have to find a technique that works with little manpower. My other big challenge is I have to remove my tubing each year, so after it is cleaned, is to find a way to roll up the tubing with the drops attached, without them getting all tangled. I know I should replace the tees and taps each year, which will result in the lines getting a little shorter each time.

I do have a sixth line that only has four taps on a steep slope, which is draining into a collection barrel where another line also drains into. It might be interesting to have it go into a separate 16 gallon barrel on it’s own, just to measure and compare the volumes from the buckets.

When you pull taps pull the drop lines down along the lateral and zip tie it down. You could clen it by submerging it all in a tank of hypochloride solution for a day or two.

[Swingpure]

When you pull taps pull the drop lines down along the lateral and zip tie it down. You could clen it by submerging it all in a tank of hypochloride solution for a day or two.

Well that makes it a lot easier, thank you.

Should I replace the tees and spigots after I take it out of the solution or wait until I put them back up in the fall?
Edit: I guess in the fall when I undo the zip ties.

Thanks for the tips, that solves a lot of problem.

[buckeye gold]

Yes, wait until next fall and it's back up. That way you can make adjustments if taps don't line up.

[Swingpure]

When you pull taps pull the drop lines down along the lateral and zip tie it down. You could clen it by submerging it all in a tank of hypochloride solution for a day or two.

How much calcium hypochlorite per gallon should I use? After soaking it for three days, do you have to flush it, and if so, can you do it in a tank of fresh water and let it sit in it for three days? Thanks.

[buckeye gold]

How much calcium hypochlorite per gallon should I use? After soaking it for three days, do you have to flush it, and if so, can you do it in a tank of fresh water and let it sit in it for three days? Thanks.

Depends on the strength, but it doesn't take much. Probably a teaspoon full per gallon will be more than enough. I think I would flush it, but I would just get some water to flow through it and not worry about a complete flush.

[Swingpure]

The sap lines sure can ice up and get snow on them. I expect it to melt off on Sunday.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0baQle4cPagoGeJ_EVGgTORsg

https://share.icloud.com/photos/05fiLnKb29jAtFC0dP7An4S4A

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0a53FAxc2TGsyM3wbfn6smnYg

[Swingpure]

I didn’t take any pictures, but I bet I had 3” circumference of ice and snow around the lines. I walked all of the lines and removed the ice and snow. Some were pretty weighted down by them. I am not sure if that is normal or not.

I did not see any damage to the lines, which was a good thing.

One question, when you start tapping and installing the drops and let’s say the sap is running when you do it, will the sap go at such a pace, that as you install the drops, you would witness any stalling of the sap in areas where there is not enough slope?

[StayinLowTech]

The lines will not fill up that quickly as the vacuum probably won't start until the whole line is filled. If your lines are weighted down means they are sagging with the ice, then I would tighten them up just before you put the drops in so the drops stay where you want them in relation to the trees. Tighten the line on a warm day (you've got some time to wait yet) and remember, the tubing is strong, so pull it. When a colder day comes, it will tighten up even more. Tighter equals straighter equals easier for sap to flow.

[DrTimPerkins]

Yes, when you're cutting them in is a good time to tighten the lines up. One good hint is to install all the drops on the uphill side initially, maybe 6-12" away from the tree stem (depending on how much tightening is needed). Then when you tighten the lines by pulling on them, always pull downhill, which will pull them closer to the stem all in one direction. You won't be able to tighten just at the end of the line, but occasionally all along the line. If pulling uphill makes more sense for your system, then install all the drops on the downhill side.

[buckeye gold]

I tighten as I cut in also, but I like leaving my lines with a little give or slack if you want to call it that. I still want them tight and straight as possible, but I do this with side ties. That way when I have damage and I need to take out more than just a few inches I can untie the nearest side tie and get my needed tubing for a repair. I have a lot of squirrel damage and after I've cut out repeated chews I usually need some slack.

[Swingpure]

I installed my lines and drops in October. I first put up the lines pretty tight, then installed the drops, sometimes cutting out a short piece of line, just to make them a little tighter.

My plan is a week or so before I tap, I will do some side ties or use bungee cords.

Not having tapped before, I hope as I tap for the lines, I will see some sap flow. Most of my lines have a very good slope all of the way, but two of them have a long, lesser slopes in the middle of the run, and I figure I may have to play with them to ensure good flow.

[buckeye gold]

but two of them have a long, lesser slopes in the middle of the run, and I figure I may have to play with them to ensure good flow.

Don't worry about it they will flow. The whole line acts like a siphon and even some pressure from the trees will make it flow just fine

[BAP]

I installed my lines and drops in October. I first put up the lines pretty tight, then installed the drops, sometimes cutting out a short piece of line, just to make them a little tighter.

My plan is a week or so before I tap, I will do some side ties or use bungee cords.

Not having tapped before, I hope as I tap for the lines, I will see some sap flow. Most of my lines have a very good slope all of the way, but two of them have a long, lesser slopes in the middle of the run, and I figure I may have to play with them to ensure good flow.
Properly put up 3/16 and 5/16 lines do not need any side ties to take at slack. Run your lines tight to begin with and as the line stretches over time, cut out a little to make it tight again. You will get better flow with a tight line keeping the sags minimal.

[buckeye gold]

Properly put up 3/16 and 5/16 lines do not need any side ties to take at slack. Run your lines tight to begin with and as the line stretches over time, cut out a little to make it tight again. You will get better flow with a tight line keeping the sags minimal.

This is true and should be anyone's goal, but circumstances often dictate other options and side ties are an option.

[DrTimPerkins]

This is true and should be anyone's goal, but circumstances often dictate other options and side ties are an option.

In lieu of or in combination with side ties, you can just do small turns on saplings periodically. This works well especially in places where crop trees are spread far apart. Don't go completely around, but just touch them/rest the line on them periodically. The friction (especially with non-rigid tubing) is enough to hold them in place.

[buckeye gold]

good tip Dr. Tim.

[Swingpure]

Thanks for the tips.

With the snow and ice off the lines, the vast majority of the lines look tight.

Fortunately when I did install them, and when I did have a long unsupported run, I made a slight diversion, so they did touch saplings for extra friction support.

[Swingpure]

So to jump way ahead, I thought came into my head today. When you use buckets, near the end of the season you will notice a change in the sap and at worst you throw out the one bucket with bud sap.

Now with lines as you get close to the end of the season, do you pull the taps out early or what do you with a large container of sap that has half good sap and half bud sap?