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vach50
05-10-2021, 08:26 PM
I’m curious if anyone else has tried this or knows why I shouldn’t try it. I’m planning to use a 4048 Shurflo pump next year to provide suction for Around 110 taps on 3/16” tubing. I plan to use a temperature sensor and controller from e Outstanding to turn the pump on at 32 degrees and off at 30. A 12 volt deep cycle battery will power everything and be charged by a 100watt solar panel.

My thought is that the pump will turn on when it warms up and turn off after it freezes and the sap has stopped, so that the pump and filter will be empty when the pump shuts off. I think that will prevent burst lines? I may add a Power to open solenoid valve to allow sap to flow into my tank if the pump fails.

I know there are more complicated ways to do this but like to keep things simple when possible. Anyone else using something like this? Thanks.

jrgagne99
05-11-2021, 08:19 AM
I have tried the programmable temperature switch in the past. It worked ok, but I actually prefer a different solution now...

Is there cell or wifi service at your collection point? If so, I recommend a webcam and a smart-switch. Point the webcam at a thermometer so you can see the temperature and turn the pump on or off whenever you want from your cell phone. Added benefits are that you can point the camera at your vacuum gauge and tank to monitor their status as well. You may also be able to see the sap flow. Here is my view:

22376

The little white rod in the background behind the releaser is a float-stick with markings for every 50 gallons in the tank.

Biz
05-11-2021, 09:08 AM
Make sure your turn-on temperature is set right. I have seen blown fuses if pump is still frozen when it tries to turns on. Or melted wires if there isn't a fuse. I set my controllers to turn on above 35 degrees. 30 degrees is a reasonable turn-off temperature. Sap is sometimes still running a little at 30 degrees so if you want to make sure lines are frozen when pump turns off it could be reduced another degree or two.

Dave

jrgagne99
05-11-2021, 09:50 AM
That was my thought as well. When I used a temperature controller, I used 28F and 35F as my setpoints.

mol1jb
05-11-2021, 10:46 AM
That was my thought as well. When I used a temperature controller, I used 28F and 35F as my setpoints.

I use similar temp settings at 34 on and 28 off. I also use the 4048 on 140 taps. This setup is inside an unheated sap shack and I have never had a problem with freezing creating problems. I have 110 power at the shack and use a 12 volt power source instead of the battery. The power source is plugged into a temp controller. The temp controllers are not always super accurate but you can change settings or calibrate pretty easily to get close. This setup has worked well for several years.

Other more common setups could be in an insulated cooler to reduce the harshness of the freeze on the pump.

DRoseum
05-11-2021, 11:49 AM
I did this but use 110v with transformer. Worked great. Kept it in a cooler (outside all season) to prevent any pump freezing.
The 12v temp controllers are CHEAP. $12 for all 3.

https://youtu.be/ni3ScN3lhZs

SmellsLikeSyrupNH
05-12-2021, 08:09 AM
Ive been using shurflos for years.

Ive never had a problem with them freezing or any tubing to burst because of freezing. They will pretty much run dry once the temperature drops and the switch turns them off if you set it correctly. the sap will freeze in the tubing and the pump will be fine. All of mine are in Black plastic containers. The sun or the radiated heat from the sky hits the box and gets it warmer before the temp probe kicks on with the air temperature.

so long story short, you are over thinking, no need to stress.

vach50
05-25-2021, 07:29 AM
Thanks everyone. Looks like simple works for others. Will stick to my plan and see how it goes. Thanks too for figuring out shuffle just means auto correct changed Shurflo. Dang!

vach50
09-03-2021, 03:18 PM
As I’m building my setup here I got another hairbrained idea. Anybody plumb the outlet of their Shurflo pump directly to the evaporator feed? In my case there would be a hose from the pump outlet to the heat exchanger inlet on the copper pipe around my chimney. Also a throttling valve somewhere to control the flow into my pans. This could eliminate my head tank and issues I have with that.

If I did this I would only have 1/2 gpm flow from the pump at times. Not sure if that would slow the pump down and lower vacuum in the lines? Anyone else try this? Thanks.

DRoseum
09-03-2021, 04:20 PM
That approach would require you to be boiling at the same time your sap is running.... all day.... night...whenever.

The way I approached this was to have my vacuum setup feed into a small gathering tank that feeds my RO directly. I built my RO with an automatic level sensor/control system. When I get a fair amount of sap in the tank, the RO turns on. It has an auto shut off when the sap gets too low as well. The RO feeds into a smaller head tank that goes through my preheat coil to my evaporator.

Solves multiple problems for me
(1) don't need much sap storage capacity
(2) don't need to manually start RO and get enough concentrate built up to boil (saves time)
(3) smaller head tank required
(4) don't need to be boiling at all times when sap is running

I rinse the RO each night and get it primed for the next day so it can autostart again.

RO is portable/insulated/heated/automated
https://youtu.be/9_Eq_sq6Tp0

vach50
09-03-2021, 05:30 PM
I would only do this while I’m cooking. I’d pump to a separate storage tank while not cooking.

bmbmkr
09-03-2021, 08:24 PM
You'll need at least two 100 watt panels unless you bring the battery back in to charge or swap batteries every couple days.

vach50
09-03-2021, 10:28 PM
I’m good on power and battery charging.