12 Volt or 110 Volt?

[Bullet]

I will be ordering a vacuum system with the 4008 Shurflo and have the option of using 12 volt or 110 volt. I've heard that using 110 can be a problem with the 4008 Shurflo. Since I have power to where the pump resides it would be much easier to use 110 (no battery and no charger necessary). Any opinions or suggestions would be appreciated.

[maple flats]

I've had great results with a 115v model for 4 years, however many have said the 12V is more dependable.

[Bullet]

Maple Flats: Thanks for your response. When you say "dependable", what does that mean? Does the 115 cause the 4008 to breakdown more frequently? It makes no sense, as the power, in theory arriving at the shurflo thru the transformer should be the same as a 12 Volt battery.

[motowbrowne]

Maple Flats: Thanks for your response. When you say "dependable", what does that mean? Does the 115 cause the 4008 to breakdown more frequently? It makes no sense, as the power, in theory arriving at the shurflo thru the transformer should be the same as a 12 Volt battery.

My understanding is that the 12v motors last longer, like 2-4x as long. I remember reading that from someone who had emailed shurflo, or something like that. The wet side of the pump should have no difference.

[MISugarDaddy]

If I recall correctly, the problem is with the motor's brushes wearing out. I have been running 12 volt models for over 5 years without a problem. I know you said you don't care to deal with a battery and charger, but any 12 volt battery with a charger connected will work for power. In fact, the old battery chargers work better than the new models for such a setup.
Gary

[DRoseum]

Or run the 12v pump model off a 12vdc power supply that has sufficient amperage for the pump. 12 vdc power supplies are powered by 110 vac.

[SeanD]

If you end up going with the 12v pump but still want to tap into constant 110v power, then ditch the batteries and charger and use one of these. No sense in adding two components when the job can be done with one - and it was made for it. I think the Shurflos draw 7.5 amps, so just make sure it's big enough to cover that. I use one of these in a setup where I can plug into a land owner's outdoor outlet.
https://www.amazon.com/LLTOP-Waterproof-AC100-264V-Transformer-Computer/dp/B088H1G4SB/ref=asc_df_B088H1G4SB/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459587783270&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8904985464918165414&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001867&hvtargid=pla-944358199414&psc=1

At my own place, I use an old computer power supply that does the same thing. It takes 15 min to set that up to be a transformer and its free if you still have one around. Simple directions are on line. I couldn't find one in the e-waste pile here in town this year. I think they may all be gone now. That's why I bought the transformer above. In another spot where I can't plug in, I use a marine battery that I have to swap out and charge each day or two.

[RileySugarbush]

I have used both and the 12V do hold up better. I think it is the brushes that fail on the 120Vac models. for the first couple years I used an old battery to filter out any spikes from the battery charger that is plugged in to 120, but for the last 2 years I just ran it straight off a charger. I agree that an old manual charger is preferable a modern one, and that is what I have used.

I just ordered a couple of the waterproof power supplies recommended by SeanD. This look good a d I will try them next season.

[Biz]

Agree on the old vs. new chargers. I bought a new 15A charger this year for the deep cycle batteries since my old one died. Worked OK but whenever the transfer pump kicked on, charger would fault off, due to fast reacting overcurrent detection that the newer chargers have. Another system used an older 1 or 2 amp Battery Tender charger which I normally use for motorcycle batteries. Worked perfectly all season even though it worked hard.

I have a 10 amp AC to DC power supply that works fine for my Shurflo 4008 pumps but not for the larger 4048 pump. The larger pump might need a 15 or 20 amp power supply.

Dave


I have used both and the 12V do hold up better. I think it is the brushes that fail on the 120Vac models. for the first couple years I used an old battery to filter out any spikes from the battery charger that is plugged in to 120, but for the last 2 years I just ran it straight off a charger. I agree that an old manual charger is preferable a modern one, and that is what I have used.

I just ordered a couple of the waterproof power supplies recommended by SeanD. This look good a d I will try them next season.

[mol1jb]

I use both the 4008 and 4048. I started with12 volt 10 amp power source for the 4048 and it did not like it, it had startup issues. I went up to a 12 volt 20 amp power source and the 4048 performed better. The 10 amp power source I use with the 4008 and it works well.

[DrTimPerkins]

At my own place, I use an old computer power supply that does the same thing.

Ah....those old computer power supplies can come in quite handy. Just pay attention to the warning sign that says "no user serviceable parts inside." Don't ask how I know that. :o

[wiam]

Ah....those old computer power supplies can come in quite handy. Just pay attention to the warning sign that says "no user serviceable parts inside." Don't ask how I know that. :o

How do you know that? :lol:

[MarquisVII]

Firing up this thread with another question for those that have run both AC and DC.

My AC powered 4008 just died (new last season). I replaced with a DC because of everything I read on this thread and elsewhere on this site. I temporarily have it running off a brand new car battery with a 1A trickle charger on it. The when I turn it on the pump is almost silent (at least compared to the AC version which had a distinct hum/buzz of moderate volume). Battery measures 12.8v with the charger connected pump off, 12.5v when I turn the pump on. It only got to 32-33F today after a big freeze so tubing is still pretty much frozen, but the pump doesn't even seem like it's trying to pull anything and vac stays at zero, albeit there's no liquid in the diaphragm. It just seems too weak to me. Am I wrong and that's just how quiet the DC's are?

Huge flow coming tomorrow so I want to make sure I'm ready!

[mainebackswoodssyrup]

The pump will sound much different and be a little louder when it’s pulling sap. I’ve only ever run 12v pumps but you won’t get any vacuum with a dry diaphragm.

[BAP]

Firing up this thread with another question for those that have run both AC and DC.

My AC powered 4008 just died (new last season). I replaced with a DC because of everything I read on this thread and elsewhere on this site. I temporarily have it running off a brand new car battery with a 1A trickle charger on it. The when I turn it on the pump is almost silent (at least compared to the AC version which had a distinct hum/buzz of moderate volume). Battery measures 12.8v with the charger connected pump off, 12.5v when I turn the pump on. It only got to 32-33F today after a big freeze so tubing is still pretty much frozen, but the pump doesn't even seem like it's trying to pull anything and vac stays at zero, albeit there's no liquid in the diaphragm. It just seems too weak to me. Am I wrong and that's just how quiet the DC's are?

Huge flow coming tomorrow so I want to make sure I'm ready!
Have you tried setting it up so that it pumps some liquid through it to see if it is even working? Sounds like maybe it’s not working.

[MarquisVII]

Running fine now. Yes, I have a recirc but everything was frozen yesterday. Still amazed at how quiet this is compared to AC - it honestly sounds like it's barely on. I suppose the AC one was slowly getting louder as it was on it's way out, but still!