Milk Bulk Tank fittings

[In da bush]

So I have an older 200 gallon Bulk Tank that I want to use this season, I know I procrastinated, but I need to find some fittings to make it work. The rubber gaskets etc, or a total updated SHINY 😍replacement valve. The tank valve itself isn’t like any other that I have seen in my 15 years in sugaring. Does anyone have a good source of fittings that will work with the general public? Or any other direction on getting the tank up and running. And honestly at this point the hardest thing for me has been trying to figure out what size I actually need to use, everything I see on the Internet is fairly confusing with the valve that I have.
Thanks in advance and I hope the sap is running on your end!!

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[ecp]

looks like an AMCE thread disc valves to me. a little hard to tell if it is 2 inch or 1 1/2 inch but given the size of the tank I would think the small size. You can get gasket kits from Hamby Dairy https://hambydairysupply.com hang on to your wallet ACME fittings are pricy.

Thanks,

[buddy58]

-----that-rubber-gasket-is-just-a-O-RING-----

[maple flats]

That looks like a Sunset valve, is that correct? Parts are still available, but if you can't find them, try finding an adapter to convert to Tri-clover and look at these https://www.brewershardware.com/TC15VBFVPT.html?category_id=274
Brewer's hardware has many such valves and adapters, maybe they can help you, or try Hamby Dairy in Fla. another great source especially for adapters from one thread to tri-clover. If you do go to Tri-Clover, get 2-3 silicone gaskets to go with them. Every joint will need a gasket, a mating surface and a clamp to pull the mating surfaces tight against the gasket for a good seal.

[Brian]

Go to a fab shop and have them cut the end off the valve you don't need and get a regular ss nipple and have them cut that in half and weld that on to the half that hooks to the tank. Then you can add what ever valve you want to. That is what I do.

[maple flats]

If you go that route a suggestion. If going with a conventional ball valve, use 2 in series. Then to shut it off close the closer valve and drain the second valve, then close thex second valve (which has no sap in it) and open the first valve. That way freezing won't burst the valve. Another way is to drill a hole in the valve from either side, but no both, drilling a hole in the closed ball. Then when you close the valve and it freexes the expansion can go thru the hole you drilled in the ball. If you use that method, be careful to clean up the outer edge of the hole you drilled so opening and closing doesn't damage the seal as it turns. I prefer 2 in series for that reason.

[Brian]

Or empty the tank before closing the valve, that way you don't have to worry about the valve cracking do to freezing, that is what I do.

[upsmapleman]

What i've done and like is take the end cap, have a hole drilled in it and weld a 1/2 nipple the size you need on it and put whatever valve you want. My guess is a 1" hole would be big enough. Maybe you could use a 1 1/4 " but guess it would be close.

[Sunday Rock Maple]

We use Fernco fittings to a ball valve on our milk tank fittings

[In da bush]

That looks like a Sunset valve, is that correct? Parts are still available, but if you can't find them, try finding an adapter to convert to Tri-clover and look at these https://www.brewershardware.com/TC15VBFVPT.html?category_id=274
Brewer's hardware has many such valves and adapters, maybe they can help you, or try Hamby Dairy in Fla. another great source especially for adapters from one thread to tri-clover. If you do go to Tri-Clover, get 2-3 silicone gaskets to go with them. Every joint will need a gasket, a mating surface and a clamp to pull the mating surfaces tight against the gasket for a good seal.

Good eye Flats!! It is indeed,it’s a 200 gallon that I’ll use in the RO room. Thanks for the link and the info 👍🏼 There is too much info/variations out there to nail down something that got me in the ballpark.
Have a great season and I’ll catch you on the flip!!

[In da bush]

Or empty the tank before closing the valve, that way you don't have to worry about the valve cracking do to freezing, that is what I do.

That was my original though but given its food grade and a milk fitting, I thought there might be a specific/special material that might be used given the food contact. Thanks Brian!!