Vent?

[red/one]

I brought this question to a new thread as I wasn't getting any responses.

I did my first boil yesterday with the new float box and raised rear pan. It went well except for one issue. My new float box is between the rear and front pan, the inlet to the float box is as high as I can go but the sap is higher than the inlet. I noticed once in a while the float was not working due to what I believe was vapor lock. I have a ball float and Roberts Valve. Can I install a "T" before the float box and vent it above the sap level? Thanks!

22093

[TapTapTap]

You may have discovered why float boxes are typically attached to the pans by straight, very short lengths (about 3-4") of larger diameter pipe (1.5" range). I would recommend a similar approach. My guess is that the smaller diameter piping with bends and valves needs a greater amount of head differential between the pans. The approach stated above takes most of the head losses out of the system.

I don't think a T would help.

[red/one]

While I don't doubt that I could benefit from larger piping, and I understand the head pressure idea, I am still wondering why it works until I get a strong boil in the rear pan. It usually happens right before I need to draw off. That's when i notice the levels are low...

I plan on changing to 3/4 tri clover next year.

I am not saying you are wrong by any means. Thanks for the tip!

[DrTimPerkins]

Very hard to tell from the photo, but it appears that the outlet is 3/4" but it is necked down to 1/2". That might exacerbate the problem somewhat.

Most of the rigs we've used of late (3' x 10' or larger) have 1 1/2 to 2" piping, and these can STILL get clogged up, most often from flakes of niter. There is a drain in the bottom of the floatbox that we will open periodically to flush the box/piping of any accumulated sediment.

[TapTapTap]

I'm also thinking that the foaming in the syrup pan creates a little back pressure on the connection to the pan. The larger pipes don't get overwhelmed by the foaming.

[red/one]

Yes Doc., 1/2"

TapTapTap, I don't think the syrup pan foam is an issue. The float box is not filling on a hard back pan boil.

I try to build everything I can but I guess trying to save money will cost me money.:rolleyes:

[maple flats]

Building your own is not the problem, design and sizes are the problem. If you go to Tri-Clover next year, use at least 1" if not 1.5". Mine is 1.5" and has never plugged, even when I've reversed in the syrup pan, so the incoming travels thru 2 90's and over 3' of pipe.

[red/one]

Building your own is not the problem, design and sizes are the problem. If you go to Tri-Clover next year, use at least 1" if not 1.5". Mine is 1.5" and has never plugged, even when I've reversed in the syrup pan, so the incoming travels thru 2 90's and over 3' of pipe.

I've got 3/4 on my SL syrup pan...

[wmick]

I had a set-up very much like yours... Pipe from the front of the flu pan to the back of the syrup pan..... (I think it was a 1/2" or 3/4" hose from barb to barb. I ran into troubles with it starving the syrup pan, simply because that spot at the front of the flu pan, would get into a raging boil.. (hottest spot in the pan) That turbulence at the outlet seemed to prevent sap from flowing out... I tried adding a deflector plate around the outlet to settle things down, but it didnt work... Eventually I figured out I needed to move that outlet a little further towards the back of the flu pan, where it doesn't boil as hard... I upped the size to 1-1/4" and added a float box at the same time... Have not had a problem since....

Bigger fittings and pipe will help considerably.... There is just no head pressure to push sap through those little pipes, even when brand new... and only gets worse when you start to get some niter buildup etc... Need to make it as easy as possible for fluid to move without any restriction.

See if you can find a Dairy equipment dealer near you.... Might be able to salvage some used fittings and pipes from his stainless scrap bin...

Good luck

[red/one]

I had a set-up very much like yours... Pipe from the front of the flu pan to the back of the syrup pan..... (I think it was a 1/2" or 3/4" hose from barb to barb. I ran into troubles with it starving the syrup pan, simply because that spot at the front of the flu pan, would get into a raging boil.. (hottest spot in the pan) That turbulence at the outlet seemed to prevent sap from flowing out... I tried adding a deflector plate around the outlet to settle things down, but it didnt work... Eventually I figured out I needed to move that outlet a little further towards the back of the flu pan, where it doesn't boil as hard... I upped the size to 1-1/4" and added a float box at the same time... Have not had a problem since....

Bigger fittings and pipe will help considerably.... There is just no head pressure to push sap through those little pipes, even when brand new... and only gets worse when you start to get some niter buildup etc... Need to make it as easy as possible for fluid to move without any restriction.

See if you can find a Dairy equipment dealer near you.... Might be able to salvage some used fittings and pipes from his stainless scrap bin...

Good luck

Thats my exact issue. I will see if I can get some larger pipe on it this year. Nothing scarier than drawing off without a feed in.

Thanks everyone for their input!