If I build it.. syrup will... run?

[TheNamelessPoet]

OK terrible attempt at Field of Dreams reference but here is my question.

Last year I got one of these (https://www.homedepot.com/p/GASONE-225-000-BTU-High-Pressure-Propane-Triple-Burner-Outdoor-Cooker-with-Steel-Braided-Hose-Square-Frame-B-6000/310727193) which made boiling MUCH easier.

The size is 34.25"x17.25" (I am going too double check it tonight because mine is a different brand)

http://www.maplesyruppans.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60&product_id=93
I was looking at getting this for next year. My question is, mounting this on the top. It is essentially, covering the entire top of the grill. That means there is miniscule airflow besides the bottom. Is that ok? I would think there is still enough on the bottom but the laws thermodynamics or whatever burring stuff laws are, they elude me a bit lol.

I think it is DEFINATLY worth it to get the one with the warming pan also.

[NhShaun]

Looks like it would fit pretty good if the dimensions are that close. You could always put some sort of spacer on the two ends of the frame between the pans and leave the other two open but that may end up shooting flames out. If you can make it work, having the draw off valve and dividers will enhance your boiling experience for sure.

[TheNamelessPoet]

FANTASTIC!!!

Thanks I was just worried that it wouldn't get enough oxygen and would burn a bit slower, or waste gas somehow because it wasn't all burning off. It also would be WAY more efficient then the blocks I put on it last year around the cheep stainless steam pan because I wouldn't lose so much heat out of the sides.


Come on nature, get with the program... I want to boil!

[NhShaun]

I would say put a 1inch steel square tube spacer on the front and 2 sides just inside that lip around the edge of the outer frame and leave the back open so the flames can shoot out there if they need to.

[DrTimPerkins]

Should work...only cost about $100+ in propane per gal of syrup, but with this as a hobby, it isn't always about saving money is it? :lol: Airflow won't be a problem. If you can adjust the flame height, dial it back to the point where you have a good boil, but not have flames shooting out the sides. The inefficiency of those burners is highest at full-blast. Try to boil in an area without a lot of wind, but still decent ventilation.

[TheNamelessPoet]

I would say put a 1inch steel square tube spacer on the front and 2 sides just inside that lip around the edge of the outer frame and leave the back open so the flames can shoot out there if they need to.

That is a good idea!


Should work...only cost about $100+ in propane per gal of syrup, but with this as a hobby, it isn't always about saving money is it? :lol: Airflow won't be a problem. If you can adjust the flame height, dial it back to the point where you have a good boil, but not have flames shooting out the sides. The inefficiency of those burners is highest at full-blast. Try to boil in an area without a lot of wind, but still decent ventilation.

Yea, I did notice, there was a point of diminishing returns, I mean I could have it ROARING, but it still has to evaporate, and I was also a bit nervous about scorching the sides.

[DrTimPerkins]

Yea, I did notice, there was a point of diminishing returns, I mean I could have it ROARING, but it still has to evaporate, and I was also a bit nervous about scorching the sides.

Not only that, but at full blast the change from pressurized to atmospheric can cause icing of the orifice on the burner, so the boil will be intense for a while, then drop off due to icing. The slowdown will let the ice melt and you'll be back to roaring again. Better to just back off a bit and keep a good steady boil.

[maple flats]

That unit isn't much different than the smallest finisher Leader sells, except you have 3 burners, they use 2. Follow Dr. Tim's advice and you will do OK. At some time in the future, you might want to get a wood fired arch set up, it will boil the sap far cheaper, even if you need to buy a load of firewood.

[Mapletree88]

Airflow wont be A problem for the burners, your main limiting factor will be the size of your propane tank. Your grill may be rated at 200k btu but a standard 20lb grill tank will only provide a fraction of that, id guess less than 40k btu max, and it will go down from there the colder it gets outside, and as the tank gets empty. The vaporization rate of liquid propane inside a cylinder is (much like sap in a pan) limited by the surface area of the liquid exposed to atmosphere inside the container and the surface area of the liquid exposed to the metal sides of the container, as the propane will draw heat from outside the container to boil. To get 200k btu you will need at least a 100lb tank, preferably two manifolded together.

keep in mind a gallon of propane= about 90k btu, so at 200k btu you would be using over 2 gallons an hour.
Id be very interested to see how that pan does on a setup like that.