Question about freezing valve on head tank

[Arctic Fox]

I've been concerned about the valve on my SS head tank freezing so I've been using heat tape any time I have sap in the tank and it's below freezing. Are there recommended valves to use so heat tape isn't required? I'm curious what other people have found work well on their head tanks?

[mainebackswoodssyrup]

Not sure what style tank it is but we use the plugs and plug the tank on our round bottom tank if we can't get everything boiled. That gets us by for the night as long as its not too cold. If it is too cold, time for an all nighter. We also have a valve inside the shack that could freeze.

[TapTapTap]

It sounds like your head tank also serves as the raw sap collection tank so this problem is one many of us face with our raw sap tank plumbing.. We use a lead free brass ball valve that is more resistant to breaking if it freezes - PVC are the worst.

Since it's more than just a valve, heat tape makes sense.

My head tank is flushed with permeate and drained at the end of each boil and is not subject to freeze up problems.

[Kbrooks80]

I also use a heat tape while running. But at night I drain mine into an underground tank and leave my valve open. Never had a problem doing this.

[NhShaun]

I am having the same concern with my new head tank set up. I am off grid so don't really have an option for the lightbulb or heat tape methods. I suppose a stainless or brass valve would hold up better to freezing and withstand the heat from a torch or heat gun too. Ideally i will have it drained and cleaned before i go home but sometimes weather and schedules don't work together. I did find some 12v heat tape used for heated hand grips and such, comes with a built in sensor to regulate heat.

[DrTimPerkins]

Some valves are more subject to freeze damage than others. Gate valves are less susceptible, as are ball valves with a solid ball. Ball valves with a hollow ball will freeze and damage the valve and leak...emptying the tank. Having the valve right after the tank is important, not in a line somewhere further down in the plumbing. If there is a real danger of freezing...drain the tank. Another way is to get a plug on a rod to place from the inside the tank (like a bathtub stopper)....then open the drain to let the fluid out of the valve.

[GeneralStark]

Like Mainebackwoods, I use a tank plug on my 1600 gal round bottom bulk sap tank which the only one that will have sap in it during freezing conditions. The plug enables you to drain the valve so there is no chance of it freezing. It takes a little getting used to in terms of how to remove it easily but it has proven to be a very effective tool for me. I have had hundreds of gallons of sap turn into an ice cube after days of freezing weather with no valve damage and no need for heat tape. The next time the sap runs the ice cube floats and I can pull the plug out it I'm ready to process sap. The key is having the valve open when you pull the plug out...

CDL, and perhaps others, make several options depending upon the size of the tank, but this will give you a sense of what I'm talking about... It's basically just a stainless rod with a heavy duty plug.

https://webstore.cdlusa.net/en/plug-storage-tank-1-12-5-rod

[raptorfan85]

Your can drill a hole in the side of a ball valve to allow the sap to drain from the ball when its in the closed position. It won't affect the operation of the valve either.

[maple flats]

On my permeate tank I do get freezing. On that I have a 1"ball valve like this: https://www.brewershardware.com/1-tri-clover-compatible-hybrid-ball-valve.html?category_id=314 It has a silicone ball, which when it freezes it can take the expansion without bursting the valve body. Then, if I need to use permeate, which I use for my hot water, I use a propane torch and thaw it, and the few inches between the tank and the valve. A few times the ice extended into the tank, but never far enough that a long SS rod wouldn't punch thru.
I have commercial grade heat tape (7 watts per foot, instead of 3 watts) on my sap line from my 2 main sap tanks to my RO hook-up, Those lines have 3/4" thick tubing insulation around them with that heat tape inside the insulation. If those lines freeze, I just plug them in for 45-60 minutes and they start flowing.

[Sugarmaker]

As mentioned, best approach no matter what valve, is to empty the tanks if possible.
Good luck.
Regards,
Chris

[SeanD]

Your can drill a hole in the side of a ball valve to allow the sap to drain from the ball when its in the closed position. It won't affect the operation of the valve either.

That's brilliant.

I like the plug on the end of a rod, too.

Two great ideas.

[LMP Maple]

Does anyone have a picture of a ball valve with the hole drilled in it? Maybe this is very straight forward. I have a stainless head tank that it would be nice to leave sap in overnight if i had the next day off to boil instead of pulling an all night boiling party for one. I just purchased a new stainless ball valve for the tank and I am worried about it freezing in the closed position if the temps drop. I have heard of this method but never had the guts to drill a new 50 dollar valve. Maybe if I saw a picture my nerve might grow. I assume in the closed position you are aiming for the center of the ball for lack of a better word. I do try to boil all the sap in nightly but this would be a nice option if I could figure out the drill point. Thanks

[Super Sapper]

Close the ball valve and come in from the discharge side and drill a hole in the center of the "ball".

[OldManMaple]

Remove the valve from the outlet, install a length of tubing on the outlet long enough to have the end higher than the tank. Install the valve on the end of the tubing and tie or secure it so the valve is above the liquid level in the tank. The tubing may freeze but the valve will be dry.

[raptorfan85]

Close the ball valve and come in from the discharge side and drill a hole in the center of the "ball".

You can do it this way, but what i do is this. Close the valve so the open part of the ball is going sideways. Then drill a small hole in the side of the valve body that lines up with the hole in the ball. That way when the valve is closed the liquid drains out the side and when the valve is open the ball covers the drilled hole.

[maple flats]

Another method I've used is to have 2 ball valves in series. When shutting down, close the valve closest to the tank, then open the second valve to empty it, then close that valve (now empty) and open the valve closest to the tank and leave it open. Freezing will not burst it because the expansion is free to move towards the tank. I did this method on 1.5" lines coming to the road from a tank 900+' away and about 15' higher. I never had a valve fail when I used this method. In that case the 1.5" transfer line was blue maple tubing. When using the method on a tank, make sure the valve is close to the tank, or it must have some maple tubing between the tank and the valve. Maple tubing can take the freeze thaw, a long length of copper for instance would burst.

[Arctic Fox]

I have yet to try the two ball valve idea, but I really like it and will keep it in mind for future setup.

[LMP Maple]

Thank you for the reply's. I definitely understand the concept now and will try it on the valve. I really like the idea of the two valves in series as well. I would never have thought to do that but it makes sense. I will def. do that when I expand the sugar-house ( I hope my wife did not see me type that:)
Looks like I will finally tap this weekend or by mid week. Thanks for all the valuable advice as usual.