another "too early to tap?" question

[Dinorocks]

Here in western NY, forecasted temps over the next 10 days are in the mid to upper 20's during the day and low to mid teens in the evening. I expect that temps will be increasing in a couple weeks and the sap will begin to flow. I understand that if trees are tapped too early before sap flow, the tree may start to heal and sap flows could diminish...and if temps are too low, splitting of the tree around the tap hole could occur and not form a tight seal around the spile, leaking sap.

Per the experienced folks on the forum, would tapping trees a couple weeks before the flow be an issue? I could wait and follow the forecast but I have time and resources to tap trees this weekend...I have about 70 trees I tap on gravity into metal buckets.

Regarding splitting of tap holes...does that typically occur while installing spiles in frozen wood or do the splits occur after tapping due to repeat freezing and thawing, etc.?

Thanks!
Dino

[DrTimPerkins]

Per the experienced folks on the forum, would tapping trees a couple weeks before the flow be an issue? I could wait and follow the forecast but I have time and resources to tap trees this weekend...I have about 70 trees I tap on gravity into metal buckets.

You can tap 70 trees in an afternoon. Wait until the weather is more appropriate for sap flow to occur.


Regarding splitting of tap holes...does that typically occur while installing spiles in frozen wood or do the splits occur after tapping due to repeat freezing and thawing, etc.?

Splitting of tapholes occurs more frequently with 7/16" spouts due to the larger degree of taper (the spout acts like a wedge). If you're using 5/16" spouts (or 1/4" or 19/64") and an actual tapping bit then splitting is far less common, and tends to be superficial, affecting mostly just the bark, so it doesn't really lead to vacuum or sap leaks. It also mostly seems to affect soft maples with smooth bark compared to rough-barked and larger hard maple trees. If you're using 7/16" spouts, wait until the wood is not frozen and don't hit the spouts real hard with a heavy hammer when tapping. Remember....it is TAPPING in a spout not DRIVING in a nail.

There is some evidence that polycarbonate (PC) spouts are less prone to frost heaving and "stick" better in tapholes due to their lack of absorption of moisture (from the air -- humidity). PC doesn't really pick up much water with humidity changes -- nylon on the other hand does, and may swell up and move around with freezing/thawing more than PC. This can cause more movement of nylon spouts in the taphole. Some newer polymer formulations are less prone to this, but you can't really tell what they're made of by just looking at them.

[Dinorocks]

Thank you very much for your reply! I'll heed your advise, tame my anxiousness and wait until I see a more favorable forecast before I tap.

Regarding splitting of tap holes...thanks again for your reply! I'm using aluminum 5/16" hookless spouts. I did just purchased a 5/16 "high performance tapping bit" from one of the forum advertisers. A couple years ago I used a manual hand drill but had leakage around the spout...I assume because my tap holes were getting oblong during drilling. I'm now using a battery-powered drill and I eliminated leakage problems. I would, however, like to continue to use the manual hand drill (more nostalgic ;-) if I could eliminate the leakage...would you know if any tips to get tap holes to leak less with a manual hand drill?

Thanks again!

[DrTimPerkins]

...would you know if any tips to get tap holes to leak less with a manual hand drill?

Sure....keep the manual drill in your pocket and use the battery-powered drill.

Seriously though...as long as the drill bit is not moved sideways or up-down during drilling, the hole will be fine. That is far harder to accomplish with a manual drill.

A little temporary leakage on the outside of the spout is to be expected. Sap along the outer rim of the spout cannot flow into the taphole, so any fresh wound is going to leak a bit until it dries out. Might be a day or two. Beyond that, the taphole was likely somewhat oval.

And before someone asks...A ROUND BIT CANNOT MAKE AN OVAL TAPHOLE regardless of whether drilled straight in or at a slight angle (10 deg or so) UNLESS the bit is moved sideways or up/down during drilling. It is an optical illusion caused by viewing perpendicular to the stem when looking at a taphole drilled at a slant. The taphole drilled at a slant cannot be oval unless A) the bit is moved or B) the bit is oval to start with. :cool: Yields from straight or slightly slanted tapholes (on vacuum) are identical. It is recommended to have a slight slant on gravity spouts.

[maple flats]

If you want to use a hand drill or Bit brace, I doubt there are any "real " tapping bits made for a bit brace, but you need to be very cautious about moving the drill, it must remain stable. That is why I always encourage new producers to use a cordless electric drill, and an official tapping bit. Also, drill straight in and out, one motion without stopping the drill. Then if there are still drill shavings in the hole, don't blow on them, rather use a twig to scoop them out, and use that twig only once then throw it away. Using a tapping bit properly you will have very few that leave any drill shavings in the hole.

[Dinorocks]

Thanks!! Good advice!

[esetter]

The hardest thing for me to stop was the old habit of drilling wood like for a wood working project where you plunge the bit in out then in out to clear shavings for a few cycles. As I have learned on here , ONE slow smooth in and then One slow smooth out. I do welding work. I carry a small piece of stainless welding wire to clear the holes out or pick up a twig off of the ground. I have noticed the wedge shaped 7/16 bucket spouts are the worst for hole splitting. Definitely worse when wood is frozen.

[Mvhomesteader]

The hardest thing for me to stop was the old habit of drilling wood like for a wood working project where you plunge the bit in out then in out to clear shavings for a few cycles. As I have learned on here , ONE slow smooth in and then One slow smooth out. I do welding work. I carry a small piece of stainless welding wire to clear the holes out or pick up a twig off of the ground. I have noticed the wedge shaped 7/16 bucket spouts are the worst for hole splitting. Definitely worse when wood is frozen.

Just out of curiosity, why is the "in/out" method poor as long as you don't drill more depth than is necessary or wallow out the hole? Not saying I drill that way regularly, but it has happened.

[DrTimPerkins]

Just out of curiosity, why is the "in/out" method poor as long as you don't drill more depth than is necessary or wallow out the hole?

Because you are more likely to wobble the drill and create an oval taphole. Not a real big deal for gravity collection. Can be more of an issue for high vacuum.

Modern tapping bits are designed to drill the hole and clear it of wood chips from living trees with one in/out motion. A standard drill bit doesn't do the same. They have a less aggressive twist, so drill slower and create smaller chips (sawdust) and the smaller flutes don't remove the chips (dust) as well. An in/out in/out approach is more typical with a standard bit in dried lumber depending on the depth of the hole drilled and the material.