New season, new goodies

[Danielb]

Picked up a new set of pans in the summer, so it was necessary to build a new arch.
Decided I wanted to spend a little time on it and make it a bit more presentable than the. Old oil tank arch from last year.
Started with an angle iron frame, all 1 1/2" by 1/8".
Once the frame was mostly done, I started on air over and air under fire. I had a few pieces of dairy pipe and a couple of valves to use for air adjustments.
I made grates from old galvanised sign posts, hopefully they hold up.

[Super Sapper]

Looking good. I would turn the fence posts around on your grate and fill the holes in if possible to let it fill with ash. This will help them last longer. The space between the fence posts is enough to let the AUF come up through.

[Danielb]

I put some skins on the arch once the forced air was done. It is all recycled 16ga stainless, riveted in place.
Added 1-1/2" rockwool insulation inside thee entire thing, then fire bricked the fire box.
Built a base stack, used 16-ga stainless that was a bit worse for wear, and gave it a bit of a hammered finish with my mini claw hammer.
Last night. I got the pans all in place and ready.

Now all that's left is everything else. Lucky for me (?) We just fell into a Cold snap that won't go away for 2 weeks, so I have time too get everything else ready

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[buckeye gold]

Supper sapper is right, those post won't hold up unless they are flipped and fill with ash. I had a solid 3/4" steel rod soften and bow in my arch. Once I put angle iron grates in with open side up and they filled with ash, they were fine and are at least 6 years old with no change.

[Danielb]

I will see what I can do about the grates.. I have. Spares, but I can probably flip the

[NhShaun]

That's a nice looking arch, like the dairy valve repurpose for the air. Can't see the 2nd post of photos though, curious how it came out all bricked and with the pans on.

[aamyotte]

You mention using Roxul insulation. Does that insulation hold up well to the heat? I know that fiberglass insulation will only melt. I would like a more cost effective insulation than the ceramic blanket.

[Danielb]

Yeah,sorry about the photos, relearning how to do attachments...

I tried the roxul last year, it worked pretty well where it wasn't in contact with any wood. It is rated for something like 2100°.

[NhShaun]

It is considered fire resistant not technically fireproof. It is certainly better than just bare steel in your arch or just bricks. But it's not quite the temperature ratings of ceramic insulation. Granted it is a fraction of the cost and easily accessible, it still gives you some sort of heat protection and keeps it in the arch. If you're going to go through the effort of cementing your bricks in place i would bite the bullet and grab ceramic for the firebox at least. Plenty have people have used and still use roxul and it works for them.

[maple flats]

You still want some refractory cement, to cover the manifold, between 3/4" and 1" thick. Put it on in 2 or 3 applications and run a small fire to start the cure. Protect from freezing until cured, you can use just a light bulb for the heat.

[maple flats]

I question the Roxul, With my AUF/AOF on rare occasions I've seen 2100F on rare occasions, even though it rarely goes over 900-1000 with the AOF

[Danielb]

Thanks for the insight, I will add some more refractory over the air tubes.
As for the temps, I guess I'll have to wait and see what happens. Hope it holds up for the season. If not I will have to address it. I know I can't make any more modifications or improvements right now, too much to do, too little time to do it.

[Danielb]

Dave, I do have to ask why the manifold should be covered in refractory. I was under the impression that some folks are making heaters to preheat the forced air up to 300-400° to increase efficiency. Would having the manifold bare not aid in heating the incoming air?
I have no trouble covering it up if you have a explanation.

[maple flats]

Having refractory covering the manifold will help with heat loss to the outside. it will not harm the manifold based on my experience. When I built my AOF I left the nozzles longer than I'd planned, but then I decided not to cut the nozzles off, I'd just let the extreme heat prune them. Now, since I have my blower running non stop from once the initial fire is lit, until after the coals are almost all burned out, those nozzles still look the same, after 13 seasons of use.

[Danielb]

So you are talking about heat loss out the side of the evaporator? I have my rockwool between thee manifolds and the outer skin, soon I assume that should look after that

[tpathoulas]

New Murphy Cup and hydrometer arrived today. Looking forward to trying them both in a few weeks.