Modification for Smoky Lake hybrid

[fisheatingbagel]

The Smoky Lake hybrid pans have an issue when hard boiling sap near the sap inlet causes sap to be blocked; from coming out of the float valve into the pan. This can result in the sap level running too low with a risk of scorching in the syrup pan. At the very least it causes wide fluctuations in sap level.

I'm trying an experiment with mine using copper pipe (didn't have stainless on hand) to direct the sap from the inlet to the center of the first flue section. I'm hoping this will even out the flow of sap. I'll report results back after a few boils.
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[Biz]

I’ve had the same problem with my SL Hybrid. Only pans I have ever scorched in 35+ years of sugaring. These pans seem to need a higher sap level to work right and maintain continuous sap flow without having mounds of bubbles block sap flow. Once I raised sap level to 2.5” it works much better. At 1.5” sap level, good luck. I love the system other than this issue. Please let us know your results.

Dave

[Ross]

Any updates? Does the pipe fit right into the port inlet?

[fisheatingbagel]

I had my first boil of the season last week, and this modification helps keep sap level more consistent when hard boiling. No more back pressure from boiling sap preventing sap from flowing into the flue pan.

I used 3/4" copper pipe, and used a belt sander to slightly taper the end so there's a press fit into the float box fitting. No problem with it falling out, and can easily remove for cleaning.

[Ross]

Thanks for the update!

[maple flats]

Very good there, a great improvement.
In fact my Thor flue pan came with one very similar, but in SS. It however extends from the back where the float box is, to the middle of that section, then 90 degrees, goes to within a few inches of the front of the pan. Then it flows out there, no end cap. It then moves to the back of the flue pan, across to the other side and forward to the front, where it then exits and can be sent to either of 2 float boxes on the syrup pan. That's how I reverse the flow, same side reverse, open one valve, close the other, and move the float. In the auto draw I then move the temp probe wire to the appropriate terminal. I have a probe on each draw off. Sometime If I remember I'll make a switch to change the terminal used rather than having to move the wire. I just haven't yet.

[Ross]

We are boiling for the first time today with this modification and WOW what a difference! I didn't notice a problem last year using natural draft but now that I added forced draft to my arch the float box would completely shut off when I was refiring and then GUSH in when I started the fan again


Thanks for posting this!.

[Ross]

I wanted to bring this thread back up to the top. We have been using this modification for 2 years now. It really makes a huge difference in keeping a consistent level in the pans.

[fisheatingbagel]

Good to hear this is still working out!