Portable pump for moving from collection to head tank

[ADK_XJ]

I've searched around on this a bit but saw conflicting information about what types of pumps are best for moving sap once collected...I have a great collection point at the bottom of a long set of ridges on our property, however the only flat point to established a sugarhouse / boil location is probably 100-200 yards away and up a 20-30' slope.

Am I looking at a needing one of the big Honda WX15 gas pumps or could I get away with something run on electric like this type of thing?

https://www.morebeer.com/products/pump-centrifugalstainless.html?variant=PMP110&gclid=CjwKCAiAi_D_BRApEiwASslbJ3mL6sbabXIrW3xW3YxA zaUbuup8_glgIedKUtsNL-MBAzt_7keYjhoC_-0QAvD_BwE

[mainebackswoodssyrup]

How much sap do you need to move each time you pump? The WX15 might be overkill. A WX10 will do what you want to do. That particular one you found says it's European and would need to be rewired for use in the US so know what you're getting into. We love our 1" Harbor Freight pump. We only pump about 150' and 16' in elevation.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-in-79cc-gasoline-engine-clear-water-pump-35-gpm-63404.html

After using both electric and gas pumps, I much prefer the gas ones. We just run non-ethanol to avoid fuel issues.

[ADK_XJ]

How much sap do you need to move each time you pump? The WX15 might be overkill. A WX10 will do what you want to do. That particular one you found says it's European and would need to be rewired for use in the US so know what you're getting into. We love our 1" Harbor Freight pump. We only pump about 150' and 16' in elevation.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-in-79cc-gasoline-engine-clear-water-pump-35-gpm-63404.html

After using both electric and gas pumps, I much prefer the gas ones. We just run non-ethanol to avoid fuel issues.

Oh nice, I have a Harbor Freight not too far away so I could definitely check that out. I've heard the "Predator" engines are close clones of Honda, and decent ones at that.

I'm similar to you, we don't have too far to move the sap and it is up a significant but short incline.

LASTLY, I just realized this should probably have been posted in Sap Tanks and Handling. Sorry, mods!

[ADK_XJ]

How much sap do you need to move each time you pump? The WX15 might be overkill. A WX10 will do what you want to do. That particular one you found says it's European and would need to be rewired for use in the US so know what you're getting into. We love our 1" Harbor Freight pump. We only pump about 150' and 16' in elevation.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-in-79cc-gasoline-engine-clear-water-pump-35-gpm-63404.html

After using both electric and gas pumps, I much prefer the gas ones. We just run non-ethanol to avoid fuel issues.

My only question after looking closer at the product is it says it uses a cast-iron impeller vs. the Honda's aluminum...I'm not a food-safe ninny but, at the same time, it seems cast iron isn't the best choice for direct exposure....thoughts?

[MISugarDaddy]

If you do decide to go with the Harbor Freight pump, I suggest changing out the Chinese spark plug that comes in it with an NGK plug. It will make it a bit easier to start. We have a Honda WX-10 that we use for collecting sap from barrels and tanks in the woods, and the Harbor Freight pump is only used for infrequent sap transfers and as a backup for the Honda. The Honda pump is by far a better pump, especially for ease of starting. One pull and it is running every time. The Harbor Freight pump is a bit temperamental when it comes to starting. Once it is running, it is a great pump, just can be a pain to start.
Gary

[mainebackswoodssyrup]

Yes, good point. We also swapped out for a NGK spark plug based on what others posted. Takes a little to start after sitting for 10 months but usually starts 1 pull once we get it going for the season. In regards to the impeller maybe others can comment on the cast vs aluminum. Neither pump is “good grade” so pick your poison. I’m sure the Honda is a good pump.

[ADK_XJ]

If you do decide to go with the Harbor Freight pump, I suggest changing out the Chinese spark plug that comes in it with an NGK plug. It will make it a bit easier to start. We have a Honda WX-10 that we use for collecting sap from barrels and tanks in the woods, and the Harbor Freight pump is only used for infrequent sap transfers and as a backup for the Honda. The Honda pump is by far a better pump, especially for ease of starting. One pull and it is running every time. The Harbor Freight pump is a bit temperamental when it comes to starting. Once it is running, it is a great pump, just can be a pain to start.
Gary

Nice...and since I spot a Kubota in your profile pic, how do you like the UTV for sap collection? Do you run tracks all winter?

[Aaron Stack]

I picked up the 1" Harbor Freight pump last week myself and was wondering if there was any was anything to be concerned about with running a bleach/water sanitizing solution through it. Planning to hook it up to the collection drums and do the initial sanitizing and hot water rinse by the 23rd and was wondering how the pump would react.

-Aaron
2020: 2 taps, 1 tree, turkey fryer
2021: 50 taps, 20x30 Mason/Vermont Evaporator divided pan arch

[MISugarDaddy]

We run tracks on the Kubota all winter. We have some significant hills in our hardwoods that we would never make it up without them. This is our 10th year of having the tracks and they have definitely paid off over trying to collect with a snowmobile. We have to travel 1/2 mile to get to the trees that we tap and the Kubota has never failed us. We have had snow 4' deep and it just keeps on going, even with 125 gallons of sap in the tank. The nice thing about the tracks, they are 4 season tracks so when the snow melts and the trail becomes muddy, we continue to use them. Even loaded the Kubota doesn't cut in on soft mud so we don't have to worry about repairing the trails in the spring.
Regarding your question on the cast-iron vs. aluminum impeller, I do not think that there is much, if any, risk to leaching contaminants into sap when it passes through either pump. This is like the concern people have expressed about the pumps on filter presses that have brass bushings. Dr. Perkins said in a thread about that concern that the amount of lead leaching into syrup from those pumps is so minute that it is almost immeasurable, even though the syrup is at 200 +/- degrees. With the limited amount of time that the sap has contact with the surfaces in a transfer pump, it should be fine to use either pump.
Gary

[mainebackswoodssyrup]

We do run a water/bleach solution through the pump at the end of the season then around 100 gallons of water at mid idle before we use it to pump sap the following season.