Submersible pump suggestions for IBC tote

[Arctic Fox]

I've been looking to see what I can find for a submersible pump that fits in an IBC tote tank. Based on what I've learned the submersible pump needs an outside diameter of under 5.5". I'm wondering if the community can offer me some suggestions?

[DocsMapleSyrup]

Take a look at using a 12 volt bilge pump to transfer sap from one tank to another. If there is lift involved, the bilge pump won't pump up a hill for ver much distance. I used a bilge pump to empty a tote into a tank in the back of my UTV to get sap back to the shack. Worked well.

[GeneralStark]

I've been looking to see what I can find for a submersible pump that fits in an IBC tote tank. Based on what I've learned the submersible pump needs an outside diameter of under 5.5". I'm wondering if the community can offer me some suggestions?

You should specify how many gpm you are hoping to achieve and whether or not you are concerned about the pump being suitable for a food product. For instance, most bilge pumps are suitable for pumping bilge water...

[Arctic Fox]

Right now I'm just trying to find a submersible pump that will fit through the opening that has bottom suction. I've seen the 4" deep well submersible pumps but they have center suction...

[buckeye gold]

Amazon has many to choose from https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GNQA35G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

I bought a submersible for RV water system, just like a bilge pump I don't remember the brand.

[bryankloos]

why not pull sap from the drain port on the bottom of the tote?
I'd find fittings to drop the diameter to whatever tube you need and then plumb in a Everflo pump or the like...

[maple flats]

That's how most do it, draw from the bottom, using a pump made for potable water, but not cast iron.

[Arctic Fox]

why not pull sap from the drain port on the bottom of the tote?

I've considered that, however I haven't come up with a pump that can be connected/disconnected and transported relatively easily to do that. Other considerations that go along with that approach are priming the pump in which case I would need to be lower than the tank outlet or get creative. Also, I'm thinking I'd need to take appropriate measures to ensure that the pump doesn't freeze with liquid in it...

I've also considered the diaphragm pump and like how they are quite portable and I don't have to worry about priming, however I don't really want to wait around between 30 and 50 minutes for a tank to pump under ideal conditions.

I like the submersible approach because it's easy to install and remove (provided I find the correct size pump), has a decent flow rate, priming isn't an issue, and freezing the pump isn't a problem because it will drain out when the pump is removed from the tank.

I'm here to learn though, so I'm open to suggestions/guidance.

[maple flats]

I use 1 of 2 pumps. When time counts, I connect my WX15 to the tank and pump. When time allows I connect my 1hp SS electric pump, and turn it on. On my IBC totes and those from any sap suppliers, I have hose adapters to connect them using SS cam lock fittings. I can however also suck out of the top, and do on occasion, but far prefer drawing off the bottom. Both of those pumps require priming by filling the housing and when finished, I open the drain plug. Back when I hauled sap from remote sugar bushes, I never drained for the drive to the sugarhouse (up to miles and lots of hills). except before I had the WX15 Honda I had a 1" Briggs & Stratton and it did freeze once, so I had to warm the pump, the impeller would not turn. (nothing harmed) Never had that with the WX15. The B&S had a very slim housing and held very little water, the Honda WX15 holds a lot of water, takes far longer to freeze.
Pumping off the bottom, all you do to prime the pump is open the IBC tote valve, keep the pump lower than the water/sap level.

[SeanD]

Like you, for a few seasons I emptied my remote tanks from the top with a Rule pump. It was slooooooowwwww, but got the job done. It was 12v and I plugged it at the back of my truck. I lost a lot of gpm because I was pumping from the bottom of the collection tank up to the top of the tank in the back of the truck - 8-10'?

Then I got the Honda WX10 and cam lock fittings for the tanks. Woohoo! It's no WX15, but it is a little workhorse. Lightweight, but powerful. It's expensive, but you'll only buy it once. The only down side is that I used to do a walk of the lines while the Rule pump was doing its thing. Now, I don't have that time.

No need to worry about priming when pumping from the outlet. All that pressure fills the housing and most of the line beyond.

[Arctic Fox]

Thank you for all the replies. After a lot more searching I found a Munro MXS202S11 (https://www.munropump.com/Products/Pumps/Domestic-Water-Pumps/Munro-5-Multistage-Bottom-Suction-Submersible-Pump) submersible pump. I've ordered one and will report how well it works for me.

[Arctic Fox]

I've used the Munro pump a few times now and have had some trouble with airlock. I'm using a check valve after the pump to keep the sap in the hose when I unplug the pump. The way I've overcome the airlock problem is by drilling a 1/16" hole in the PVC nipple that connects the check valve to the pump. I'm quite pleased with the GPM and the head height it can pump to.