Surge Alamo pump and Releaser

[darkmachine]

Is there any way to identify this pump. I understand that the model was printed on the belt cover(which i am missing). I am going to try to use this pump this season, i was assured it worked but i would like to go over it before i put it into service and i'd like to know what model it is if i need to order parts. Thanks in advance I also have a releaser that came with it that It that would be nice to find someone to go over it and make sure it's in working order. This will be my first year using vacuum. I'm sure it's overkill, but so far it hasn't cost me anything, I have to hang the tubing regardless.
http://mapletrader.com/community/attachment.php?attachmentid=21692&stc=1http://mapletrader.com/community/attachment.php?attachmentid=21693&stc=1

[maple flats]

The best way to determine which Alamo it is will be from the measurements. Measure the width of the main body, not including the end plates. From that we'll give you the answer. Most Alamo pumps will be rated not in CFM but in how many cow barn they were designed for. The choices I'm aware of are a 30, and a 50-75-100. On the 50-75-100 the difference is on the motor and the RPMs. For some reason they had no such marking on the pump. The pictures you show don't quite give the size well enough.
If it is an Alamo 30, you will get enough vacuum to run about 500-700 taps at 24-25" vacuum if you keep leaks to a minimum. One thing you will want is to open up the oil flow from the reclaimer. The original way to control that was to open the fitting where it re-enters the bearings on each end, and snap off a little of the hardened wire inside. That will increase the flow. However, far better is to buy some after market oilers and then you can get ones with a needle valve adjustment. Because the pumps were designed to run a 15" vacuum, to run much higher you need more oil flow. I like to adjust them to get 1 drip every 4-5 seconds if running above 17-18" vacuum.
Another thing you should do now, is remove the pulley end plate and pull the whole armature out to see if the vanes are badly warn or stuck in place. They need to be free for centrifugal force to hold them out against the outer surface. Also check the outer surface while it is open, if there is much scoring, have it machined to make it smooth. New vanes if needed are available from Wormuth Dairy & Refrigeration, in Morrisville, NY. Also some online supplies such as Hamby Dairy, (Fla?) likely others. Wormuth is among other things a Surge dealer.

[darkmachine]

From your message i think we have the 50-75-100 pump body, 7/14" wide from outside of fin to outside of fin, the motor RPM's are 1725. Removed the pully and plate, the pump wall is smooth, and the vanes all seem to slide freely and the edges are not chipped. I do need to address the oilers, when i disassembled the pump i found the small wires, but they seem to be tubes with very fine holes. An oiler kit with the adjusters like you mention runs about $120. I'd like to get one with an external oil filter, i need to keep shopping.

[maple flats]

I bought mine 6-8 years ago and inflation certainly has been showing it's ugly head, but when I bought mine I believe I paid $30 something for each and I bought 3. Look around, you may do better. Unfortunately I don't recall who I bought them from. I will be at the sugarhouse in a day or 2. I have one spare, I think it is still in the shipping padded envelope hanging on the wall. I'll try to remember to check for a name.

[darkmachine]

I was able to get my pump up and running, seems like it's working GREAT, lots of thread tape, and tightening it up, I need some more weight on the vacuum regulator to get it to pull more than 17", but it seems to pull over 20" no problem.

Next i turned my attention to the releaser. I worked over all the joints and seals and my issue is where the vacuum line connects to the mechanism. It seems to me that the line is too stiff to allow it to operate effectively. Am i missing a joint or other part? can someone with a similar releaser post pictures of how they have theirs connected so i can get this thing going! Thanks in advance! Pics are in the beginning of the thread.

[darkmachine]

Everything seems to be in working order. I tied in about 75 taps today, hope to get the balance tomorrow, still pulling about 23 inches so my leaks are minimal....looking forward to a great season! I just stood there and watched it fill and dump...so excited i couldn't walk away.

[darkmachine]

well....I had a bit of a tragedy. The oilers on my vacuum pump got plugged up, and the pump ran dry, which burned/chewed up 3 of the 4 vanes in the pump. I knew i should have installed an aftermarket oiler, and filter. Now i'm stuck until Monday morning just getting what runs out by gravity. any way to prevent this type of thing from happening(I know i could buy a modern vacuum pump). Anyone have any experience with this type of failure?

[Brian]

That pump can't take more than 18 inches of vacuum! Unless they have the flood system. You will keep burning it up at that rate, They are designed for milking cows not trees. At that rate the oil turns to smoke so there is no lubercation for the vaines.

[darkmachine]

I did modify the oilers to supply more oil, but the filter inside the reclaimer got plugged up? or maybe it was too cold when i started it up and it got hot, and after that....well there you go. I only had it pulling around 20, i heard that was in the ballpark, i'll have to see what it will take to setup a flood system, i'm assuming that just lets the oil pour down instead of dropping it in?

[Brian]

Yes the oil goes in the suction side of the pump and goes back to the reclaimer to keep the vaines from burning up. put in a valve in the line to control the oil flow and watch your vac gauge to get the most out of it. The oil should slso run through some sort of oil cooler also so the oil get a chance to cool a bit. Keep the oil going to the bearings also through the oilers.

[Clinkis]

well....I had a bit of a tragedy. The oilers on my vacuum pump got plugged up, and the pump ran dry, which burned/chewed up 3 of the 4 vanes in the pump. I knew i should have installed an aftermarket oiler, and filter. Now i'm stuck until Monday morning just getting what runs out by gravity. any way to prevent this type of thing from happening(I know i could buy a modern vacuum pump). Anyone have any experience with this type of failure?

I have a similar surge pump, Alamo 30, and it will comfortably 22-23” all day long with the proper Oilers. I installed 3, one at each bearing and one on vacuum inlet. I used de lavel adjustable Oilers, supplying a drop every 5-6 seconds. This will be my 6th season with minimal issues

[darkmachine]

So i need to add a line to the vacuum inlet. I saw too that some drill out the oilers with a 3/32 drill bit, is that necessary? It drips really fast. as far as an oil cooler i'll have to look into that. before the oiler got plugged up it did smoke a little when it got up and running.

[Brian]

They will smoke alittle. The idea is to have the smoke to be moisture instead of oil burning. Year ago farmers use to suck a buckett of hot soapy water to clean the in side of the pump and vaines once a month but those didn't have oil reclaimers on them. They would put oil in them before every milking and there would be a big oil slick at the end of the exhaust out side the milk house. If you get it right you should be able to turn it up to 26-27 inches. As far as a cooler goes what about an after market automatic transmission cooler? Mount it in front of the electric motor fan to cool the oil.

[BAP]

Make sure your oil reclaimer is clean inside. Over time, the oil recliners will get sludge and caking build up in them that will plug up the oilers and lines. Flush it out real good before getting it back up running. Installing an oiler into the suction side is a must on any dairy pump brand that doesn’t have one in order to maintain vacuum over the 13.5” that is used milking cows. So you should have an oiler for each bearing and the suction line. When I set them up, I set the oilers to drip 1 drip every 2-3 seconds to keep the pump cool and lubricated. I used drippers like these. Hamby Dairy Supply has vacuum pump parts if you need anything.
https://hambydairysupply.com/triple-oil-dripper-system-for-m-7-5-or-m-15/

[mountainvan]

I took the stone filters out of my reclaimers and plumbed in a oil filter for an oil burner.put in a shut off valve between the reclaimer and filter housing or oil will flow into the pump when off. Just open it when running. I keep a small stream of oil coming in.

[Brian]

Thoes are great things to do, I wish I could rember all the good info on this site.

[darkmachine]

I'm back up and running, new vanes, oil re-claimer cleaned out, cleaned everything inside, checked all bearings. I put in an order at the local dairy supply for adjustable oilers, and filter kit, that should be here tomorrow, or Wednesday. I saw a thread on here where someone drilled out the factory oil drippers with a 3/32 drill bit and i did that, wow what a difference! When i started it up it pulled 23 without batting an eye, but until i get the third oiler installed i'll try to keep it under 20". I removed some weight from the vacuum controller, pulling around 18". Can anyone recommend an oil cooler? i've been considering a transmission cooler as Brian suggested, but it may be an add for next season, i probably will only have another two weeks before the sap gets buddy.

I appreciate all the help!! That surge setup will hopefully serve me well until i can afford an upgrade and then i'll pass it along to someone else.

[Brian]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-13315?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA1pyCBhCtARIsAHaY_5cqQglV13RwIG93WGCC _RWUxzsleS44KBYErQyPTRCyU-JOxIJY7qUaAjCKEALw_wcB

Try some thing like this

[BAP]

The quickest cooling for now would be to put a box fan next to it blowing on the pump setup. It will help quite a bit until you can get an oil cooler put on.

[darkmachine]

After about 24 hours, the "stone" filter is once again clogged, and minimal oil getting to the vanes. At least i caught it in time. I ordered a spin on filter kit, hope this fixes the issue. The pump was spotless when i reassembled it...i just can't imagine that regular operation would foul the filter that fast and cause it to stop oiling....new filter should be here tomorrow.

[maple flats]

Clean the entire inside of the oil reclaimer with kerosene , rinse, then it should be good. Best to remove the porous stone filter and let the oil flow. Install a shut off for when not running or the pump will be full of oil and then won't turn. At the right RPM with those changes you should, with good vanes and a smooth bore, get about 24" vacuum, but if the oil stops it will get toasted.

[darkmachine]

I used brake cleaner the first time around I thought that would do the trick, it looked clean. Could it be sucking in debris from the vacuum controller? I assume the stone filter unscrews, i'll give it a try tomorrow. I spent so much time fooling with it i got behind on boiling, so i just left it off. One of the drawbacks of a one man operation. After tomorrow i should be all caught up on sap and i can think about turning the vacuum back on. I have about 500 gal of sap sitting, at least its in the cool.

[Bricklayer]

The stone filter is junk. I put a spin on automotive filter then a ball valve then a copper line bent up above the oil line in the reclaimer. This will stop the pump from filling with oil and the copper will help keep the oil cooler. Just a bit will trickle into the pump but not enough to cause any problems.
The delaval oilers are the best. The one I bought require another line from the Oiler to the bearings and flood line at the vac inlet. Do these out of copper as well.
I have a picture of it somewhere. I’ll try and find it. It was an Alamo 100 and way to big for my setup. So I sold it. But the pump stayed cool and would pull 28” no prob.

[Clinkis]

Here is pictures of my setup if it helps. As Bricklayer says, No stone filter, straight connection to reclaimer with shut off valve and a replaceable filter which I replace once or twice throughout the season. I run a drop every 5-6 seconds on each oiler and have consistently pulled 23-24” for the past 5 seasons.

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[Bricklayer]

22230

I eventually ended up putting copper from the bottom of the oilers to the bearings.

[darkmachine]

The intake to my pump is vertical so I'll have to pick up an elbow and some fittings to attach a third oiler. Do you just drill and tap the pump casting to add the third oiler?

[Clinkis]

I tapped the pipe that screwed into the casting. A lot simpler. Should put a brass swing check valve right after to prevent oil being sucked back into releaser when the pump is shut off. I know the picture I posted isn’t the clearest but you can see where I tapped the pipe right before the casting and put the check valve right after.

[darkmachine]

I'll have to check the casting to see if it's threaded on the inside. Currently it has a flexible hose clamped onto the outside of the casting, which i assume is the factory setup from it's days in a milking parlor. If it is threaded that would make my life a whole lot easier. I won't have to pull the whole pump off the frame and into the shop to do the job. My oil filter should be here today, and i already have the new oilers in hand so i hope to be up and running by noon today. It looks like i should be able to get another week or so of run if i don't run into any more issues.

[darkmachine]

New oilers installed, so nice to be able to adjust them. Also installed the filter upgrade. MUCH better. It took a little while to get the oil to start dripping but once it started it looked great and the vacuum is perfect. Next project is a temperature controlled switch to cut the pump on and off so i don't have to drive out there in the morning and evening and switch it on and off. Thanks for all the help everyone!!

[BAP]

Great to hear that you are up and running