bigblazer
03-27-2020, 03:14 PM
I Just wanted to share my experience with my home built RO and my first year using it. I gathered most of my ideas from here and a few PM’s. Some background data. I ran 84 taps on buckets this year. My evaporator is a 2x5 smoky lake divided pan, with float box, on an oil tank arch. All fed by a 35-gallon head tank. For sap storage I have (2) 275 gallon totes, and lots of random 55 drums for permeate. I wanted a system that would run matched with what I have plus leave room for growth.
My parts list is as follows:
1hp Marathon 56c frame motor
240 GPH stainless procon
4”x40” stainless housing
4”x40” MES membrane
4”x10” big blue filter
½” needle valve for concentrate
½” ball valve for recirc
Used ¾ hose everywhere
.2-2 gpm flow meters for both permeate and concentrate.
All mounted on a dolly
Cheap ¾ hp stainless pump feeding raw sap to the filter
After initial cleaning and getting set up for boiling everything ran better then expected for a first time. I ran 420 gallons through in 10 hours. This was at 200psi and .2gpm concentrate and .55gpm permeate. I was starting with 2% sap and taking it to 8% with a recirc line (running from in front of the needle valve to a “T” at the procon inlet). This all matched my evap rate perfect as the head tank level rarely fluctuated. All numbers stated above were the same for my last 2 boils. I am very happy with the results, time and wood savings. I didn’t experience any loss of pressure from fouling. After each boil, I ran the days permeate back through to rinse the membrane.
Some lessons learned from the build that I wanted to share are as follows. The procon likes to be fed, either by a pump or good tank pressure. Stainless on stainless fittings take a special tape and/or pipe dope. Most of my fittings had leaking issues at one point. Quick connect hoses would be much easier switching from tank to tank, for sap and permeate. Make sure to plan for lots of permeate storage. Go with 2.5”x10” filters for the prefilter. They are much cheaper and easier to find then the 4”. And make sure to budget for hoses and fittings. They will nickel and dime you.
Thanks for everyone's ideas and posts!
My parts list is as follows:
1hp Marathon 56c frame motor
240 GPH stainless procon
4”x40” stainless housing
4”x40” MES membrane
4”x10” big blue filter
½” needle valve for concentrate
½” ball valve for recirc
Used ¾ hose everywhere
.2-2 gpm flow meters for both permeate and concentrate.
All mounted on a dolly
Cheap ¾ hp stainless pump feeding raw sap to the filter
After initial cleaning and getting set up for boiling everything ran better then expected for a first time. I ran 420 gallons through in 10 hours. This was at 200psi and .2gpm concentrate and .55gpm permeate. I was starting with 2% sap and taking it to 8% with a recirc line (running from in front of the needle valve to a “T” at the procon inlet). This all matched my evap rate perfect as the head tank level rarely fluctuated. All numbers stated above were the same for my last 2 boils. I am very happy with the results, time and wood savings. I didn’t experience any loss of pressure from fouling. After each boil, I ran the days permeate back through to rinse the membrane.
Some lessons learned from the build that I wanted to share are as follows. The procon likes to be fed, either by a pump or good tank pressure. Stainless on stainless fittings take a special tape and/or pipe dope. Most of my fittings had leaking issues at one point. Quick connect hoses would be much easier switching from tank to tank, for sap and permeate. Make sure to plan for lots of permeate storage. Go with 2.5”x10” filters for the prefilter. They are much cheaper and easier to find then the 4”. And make sure to budget for hoses and fittings. They will nickel and dime you.
Thanks for everyone's ideas and posts!