Some Help? Barrel Stove Not Getting Hot Enough

[JayTee]

After using a Turkey Fryer/Propane Burner, I've built a barrel stove for evaporation. First version just had a single cut-out for one pan, a 'rails' for a second pan. I knew where I wanted to go with the stove as soon as I got the materials I wanted, so started it like this, with a single length of stack and a bunch of pavers laid in the bottom.
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It was getting hot enough to scorch the paint on the sides just PAST my single pan, so I figured that was going to be my hot spot going forward.

Now, I've cut the full opening, laid in some 20G sheet steel, sealed all around the edges and added a second length of stack to get it more above me and improve the draw.
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In use, I've found:

I'm using seasoned wood: maple, elm, a very little pine and two sawed up pallets
It does not seem to get enough air through the vents below the door
It burns better when the door is ajar, letting more air in
The fire from the coals is can get hot enough to make it uncomfortable
While the rear pan runs hotter than the forward pan, neither pan will come to a boil
I've burned it with low and kept it chuck full of wood


What am I missing? I'd appreciate any help on getting this thing boiling.

John

[In da bush]

I would brick it so you’re not loosing so much heat and I would get rid of the plate you’re setting your pans on. It’s all about surface area getting hit with the flame, that plate is not doing you any favors at all. Lastly I would add a fan to help combustion and restrict the exhaust going up the stack to maximize the heat you’re producing.

[ecolbeck]

I agree with bricking and losing the plate. I would also lose the damper. It will just serve to slow your fire down.

[steelguy]

cut holes in the plate large enough so that your pans can sit down in them.
you need the fire directly on the bottom of the pans

[wmick]

...X4 - Absolutely - - Get rid of the plate so fire touches your pan.... Nothing slower than trying to make syrup with pots on the living-room wood stove..

If you are concerned about air leaking in around the pan, grab some flat stove-gasket material to set under the pan, around the edges..

[In da bush]

I agree with bricking and losing the plate. I would also lose the damper. It will just serve to slow your fire down.
My 2 cents,if you slow the fire down just a little it’ll keep the heat on the pans to get them cranked up

[Cozy maple]

I would agree with bricking the stove. Add a grate to raise the fire under the pans. If you can shorten the fire box and add a ramp it will help direct the heat on to the pans. With a big open fire box once a draft is created the heat will head directly to the stack.

[snakes14009]

The flames have to be touching the bottom of the pan. Cut the openings just big enough to let the flames hit the bottom you can even seal the pan with gasket. And add some forced air. If your trying to do it cheap use a hair dryer. If forced air is not an option use a holes saw and cut some holes next to the door. Remember those barrel kit doors are ment for a fire that is used for heating not boiling. To get max draft you need enough openings to equal the area of your stack diameter. I see you have 2 sections of pipe it looks like 4ft tall. A barrel is about 3ft you need another 2ft of stack. Rule of thumb is 2x the evaporator length for stack pipe. Good luck

[Mead Maple]

All good points. I would also add in a little more soft wood because you have a limited amount of firebox. The soft wood will burn hot and fast, a longer stack won’t be a bad idea either


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[Rockfallsmaple]

I have a barrel arch very similar to yours, however I have a 18 x 24 inch flat pan.
the most important things are:
Expose the bottom of the pans to the flames
I have 6 feet of chimney pipe
Add a blower for air to the fire
I used a blower from a water heater and 2" iron pipe into the firebox, it is controlled with a dimmer switch, works great
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and most importantly have fun!

[JayTee]

Guys, thanks for all the GREAT ideas. I'll be adding another stack to the exhaust, have already done a little bricking around the base and will have to work on that. Someplace I have a fan that may be a perfect application for this, just have to remember what I thought of yesterday! Looks like I'll be cutting some holes and adding a grate of some type to the box.

Thanks again!

John

[In da bush]

You’re welcome and good luck,post some pics once you’ve got’r cranking👍🏼

[JayTee]

We have achieved boil! So far I have:


Cut open the top as suggested. Pan #1 sits proud, but I got tired of fighting with it and not having the proper tools. :lol:
Pan #2, which is my hot spot anyway, sits down to the handle lugs
I added more brick to the inside - using pavers that I had on hand. Had three in each 'segment' before; now have five, bringing the brick up the sides a bit.


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This is not full on boil yet, but, if I keep up with the wood, it hits a nice roiling boil in Pan #2 and Pan #1 is right at a simmer. I'm adding cold sap to #1 and ladling it over to #2.
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As of this picture I had not added another section of chimney; picked that up yesterday and now have a TALL stack!
Did not do any additional sealing around pans; though I can see flame here and there from outside, it draws nicely and does not smoke. Would gaskets of some type improve air draw through the front and improve burning?

I still need to find some expanded steel to make a grate and fab in some kind of blower, but things are on the right track.

If you look closely, you can see stacks of Red Oak (I think?) behind the boulders and in my truck. Ameren was removing some trees nearby to upgrade their service and the homeowner allowed me to help myself to wood. Took two bedloads of unsplit wood that I'm working on and will have available for NEXT season.

Thanks again for all the suggestions.

John

[Big_Eddy]

A grate will make a huge difference. You need your fire up off the bottom so the air can get under the wood. Should help draw the fire up to the first pan too. If your fire is hot - expanded steel won't last. Try 1 1/2" x 1/4' angle arranged in a VVVVV pattern.
Split that wood another time. Smaller is better.
You mentioned stuffing it chock full of wood. I find a half fill twice as often works better. Less heat drop while the new wood ignites.

[Chickenman]

If you want a better seal for your pans as a quick test if a gasket would help is roll some aluminum foil into a loose tube and stuff it into the gaps where you see flames. I used this method when I was using a drum.

[JayTee]

Thanks Big Eddy. That angle iron would be an easy fix and probably an easier fit than expanded steel. Most of the stuff just next to the stove is actually pretty small, but WILCO. Another easy fix! ;)

John

[JayTee]

Thank you Chickenman ("He's everywhere! He's everywhere!"), I had actually meant to ask about potential gasket material and you dropped that. Wondered if that would improve the draw. It sure burns clean when it's hot; very little smoke.

John

[Big_Eddy]

Old photo of one of my grates - I melt at least one a year - need to make another one for this season. I use whatever heavy angle happens to be on the drops rack this week.