Oil Conversion

[Chasefamily]

I assume it will be pretty simple, but i cannot find a ton of topics on swapping a wood to oil evap. I just want to make sure im not missing anything and would like to know any tips before i start. I have a 3x10 Waterloo raised flue system that i would like to swap over to oil. I do have a couple of carlin 702. so was wondering if one of those would work well? i do know of a couple of 301s but think those are a little small?

Just plan on taking the doors off, mounting a plate with insulation behind it, Mounting oil gun in the center, and then filling fire box up to the bottom of the grates with something. What else should i be looking into? not sure what nozzles or to start with on burner.

[wiam]

Lot of info here. https://www.leaderevaporator.com/pdf_files/leader-insulated-oil-arch.pdf I would call these starting points. I have a Carlin 701 on my 3x12. 2-5.5 gph hollow 80° nozzles running 125 psi. In my mind an oil pressure gauge is very important. I also only run Hago brand nozzles.

[Chasefamily]

William, thanks for the link. I figured a 601 was the burner i was looking for but seeing how i already have 2 702s that may be the better route to go. Im not sure how much different the 702 is vs the 701?

[wiam]

Looks like 702 has one nozzle and pressure is increased for hi fire. 701 has 2 nozzles. And runs one on low fire and two on high fire with no pressure increase.

[Chasefamily]

Yes, that sounds like what i remember now. Although i am not sure what that means far as setting it up but am going to soon find out.

is there a distance below the pans i should mount the burner? i plan on just mounting it in the very center of the opening.

[Sugarmaker]

Chase,
I really dont have any numbers but on my old King arch I have a long range plan to convert to oil maybe someday. Anyway I was going to remove the grates, put the burner in the ash door (not the main firing doors). And then add some fire brick to make a semi circle arc in the corners of the fire box at the ramp end. And maybe fire bricks or blanket in the ash pit area. Blanket is really all you should need for oil fire. This is just my idea based on some real old school stuff from the stone age. (Thats when we used rocks to heat the sap to sugar) I also was expecting to burn 6 gph or more maybe 8 gph of oil. Thats what size nozzle we had in a antique burner in a old 3 x 10.
I did not go look at the links posted which I should have done first.
Good luck with your season, and your evaporator refurb!
Keep boiling!
Regards,
Chris

[Brian]

https://carlincombustion.com/gas-oil-burner-products/burners/commercial-burners-oil-fired/702crd-commercial-burners/

This might help.

[Chasefamily]

Thanks for the link. Does anyone now how far below the syrup pan I should mount the center of the burner maybe 8-10inches?

[Brian]

I will check mine tomorrow, and get back to you.

[Chasefamily]

Sounds good. Although I am going to order the plate tomorrow morning

[Chasefamily]

Lot of info here. https://www.leaderevaporator.com/pdf_files/leader-insulated-oil-arch.pdf I would call these starting points. I have a Carlin 701 on my 3x12. 2-5.5 gph hollow 80° nozzles running 125 psi. In my mind an oil pressure gauge is very important. I also only run Hago brand nozzles.

How Far below the syrup pan is the center of your burner?

[wiam]

How Far below the syrup pan is the center of your burner?

Bottom of pan to center of burner is 16”. But I’m not sure where I came up with that number. I had to adjust my burner to be pointed up slightly at the pan and tried a bunch of different nozzles/pressures to get the front pan to boil like I wanted it to. At first front 12” of pan wouldn’t boil good. I built my arch from scratch. If I had it to do over it would be reverse fired. I may change it.

[Chasefamily]

I have chose to center my burner in the conversion plate im building so i believe that puts it at 10.25" or so from center of burner to bottom of pan. Looks as if my burner has fixed depth so i wont be able to adjust how far it sticks in without spacing it. To start im going to just mount flush to plate and straight in.

[Chasefamily]

Looks like 702 has one nozzle and pressure is increased for hi fire. 701 has 2 nozzles. And runs one on low fire and two on high fire with no pressure increase.

Low fire says 100-200psi then high fire is 200-300 psi

[Brian]

The top of the burner tube is 14 inches down from the top of the arch on mine, I am shooting 5 gph 80 deg nozzle low fire and 7 gph 80 deg on high fire on a 4x12. The pump pressure is about 145 psi and using about 15 gallons an hour. the stack temp is about 600 to 625 deg f depending on the barometric pressure. this is a Carlin 701. The 702 should work for you, the pump I believe is set to 100 psi on low fire and 300 psi on high fire with one nozzle so then once you find the right nozzle for your evaporator then set the air shutter to clean up the flame you should be in good shape. You might need to nozzle up or down to find the right boil for you.

[Chasefamily]

The top of the burner tube is 14 inches down from the top of the arch on mine, I am shooting 5 gph 80 deg nozzle low fire and 7 gph 80 deg on high fire on a 4x12. The pump pressure is about 145 psi and using about 15 gallons an hour. the stack temp is about 600 to 625 deg f depending on the barometric pressure. this is a Carlin 701. The 702 should work for you, the pump I believe is set to 100 psi on low fire and 300 psi on high fire with one nozzle so then once you find the right nozzle for your evaporator then set the air shutter to clean up the flame you should be in good shape. You might need to nozzle up or down to find the right boil for you.

I just opened up my first burner and it has a 5.00 45°B. I was thinking I wanted like a 6.00 60 deg. Suppose I'll have to try out a few and see what works best.

[Brian]

b is solid spray pattern and a is hollow spray pattern. I would want a 80 deg hollow.

[Brian]

https://carlincombustion.com/wp-content/uploads/702CRD-Instruction-Manual-110519.pdf

I would start out with a 4.50 hollow 80 deg.

[wiam]

20949
I have chose to center my burner in the conversion plate im building so i believe that puts it at 10.25" or so from center of burner to bottom of pan. Looks as if my burner has fixed depth so i wont be able to adjust how far it sticks in without spacing it. To start im going to just mount flush to plate and straight in.

I suggest an inspection hole so you can see the flame pattern. Mine is a 3” hole centered above the burner with a steel plate with one bolt. Bolt is loose enough so plate can swing out of the way.

[Chasefamily]

Is this a burner where I may be able to only run it on low fire and don't need high fire?

[Brian]

No, The low fire is great to start on then turn on high fire. same for shutting down, turn it down to low fire then off. this takes the ignition pressure off the pans. When the pans are cold on start up, they will instantly soot up, then when every thing comes up to temp you need enough heat to burn the soot off the pans. Soot is a good insulator. that is why you need the high stack temp. this is one of the great things about the 2 stage. the 601 burner with a big nozzle can lift the pans a little on ignition.

[Brian]

Once you get it together you will love it. It sounds hard but it is not. You don't need a barometric damper either. William is right about a sight hole for Adjusting the air. you could weld a nipple on to the steel plate then screw a cap on it.

[wiam]

This is how far mine sticks in. You are welcome to stop by and look at mine. I also have several 4 to 7 gph nozzles if you want to try different ones with out buying new. ( from my experimenting).

[wiam]

This shows where the ramp is on mine. I can get measurements when I get home.

[Chasefamily]

Well I finally got my burner hooked up and fired. I put a 4.5 hollow 80 deg nozzle. It does seem to start up smoothly and didn't see much smoke maybe in daylight I can tell more out the stack. I turned it on and in about 6-7 mins the flue pan was boiling and at 9-10 mins the center rear half of the syrup pan was. So I didn't run it long enough to fully find out what the syrup pan boil would be although not sure what I would do to help that besides maybe tipping burner up, spacing burning out, or adding some sort of fire wall. Although maybe after fully up to temp the boil will be fine. But it seems very nice to just flip a switch and almost instantly see steam.

I will try to check stack temp next time I fire but I'm running a 15 inch stack that's about 25 ft tall with no barometric dampner at the moment