saddle installation

[PATheron]

Guys- Im putting my saddles on my main line. Wondered how you guys do it. They are kind of awkward. I found about only thing that worked for me was to use my one hand tool and catch the edge of the saddle after I put the saddle on the line. Is that how you guys do it. It looks like they seal up real tight when you crank them down with channel locks . Just hard to get hold of to put the tube on. Theron

[Parker]

Theron- that is how I do it,,,,are you useing the connectors with hooks at the end of the laterl line then a short loop of tubing into your saddel? I drill my hole in the 3 o clock position,,that way the wire hits the saddel in the grove (if your useing IPL multifittings),,and I wire tie the botton connection together

[ibby458]

On a related note - do you really need to use the hole boring tool to make the holes for saddles, or can you do a decent job with a hand held drill? I'm gonna hafta lay out enough money for tools as it is - if I don't really need the boring tool, I don't want to buy it.

[maplecrest]

when you drill with a drill slip a piece of maple tubing over the drill leave 1/4 inch of the drill exposed to drill pipie that way you will not drill straight thru the pipe. but i have found that tha driil is one more thing to drap thru the woods. and the hole cutter was worth the money. on more thing the new pipe being made is smaller than the saddles. take some left over main line pipe and cut some short strips. place the strip between the pipe and the bottom of the saddle and they tighen up real good then wire tie the saddle. wier tieing the hook connecter to the wire will help also.

[mountainvan]

I use a 7/16" brad point bit for drilling into the tubing. It does not slip and makes a nice clean hole. As for carrying the drill, I put an allen wrench in the chuck and use the drill to tighten the wire ties on the mainline. Works pretty slick. Just don't drill to fast or hard, or you might drill all the way through the tubing. I guess you could put a bucket under the hole!!

[royalmaple]

I take the end of the loop going from the hook to the manifold and put that in one end of my tool. THen I close the other end of the tool and put that on the end of the manifold. THen you can squeeze the latteral loop onto the manifold, much like any other barbed connection.

If you have a double it is easier since you grab both loops and put them on the manifold just like a T or anything else.

[Brian Ryther]

The leader store in Rutland VT sells a tool for cutting the hole in the main line. It is about an inch in diameter and about three inches long. It has a round blade that cuts a perfect hole for main line fittings. I think it cost less than ten dollars. I did not see it the Leader web site but if you call them I know thay have them.

[PATheron]

Got a bunch done this morning. Cold out. Found what works for me is to make the hole, got the tool. Then put the saddle on and cinch tight. Hole at 3 oclock like Parker said. Then I take the one hand tool, the fitting swivels, swivel ito down and catch the wire part on top of the saddle with the tool and then press the tube on that way. Seems to work the best for me then cut to length and put on my lat connector. Goin fast now just a lot to put on. The saddles Im using are the new style that just cinch down tight with channel locks. They seem like a real tight fit. The hole is even tight. I know the saddles are a source of vac leaks but these things do seem to fit the 1" im using perfectly. Theron

[ibby458]

I've got last year's Leader catalog right in front of me. THe mainline drill tool is listed at $107, with another $40+ for a different bit. The drill with tubing on the bit is looking pretty good :)

[Dave Y]

The problem with going thru the leader catolog is there prices are way higher than what you would have to pay for those tools at your local dealer. I am using the mainline drill and would not lug a cordless thru the woods with all the other things you need. I cant get in to my woods with wheeled equipment. I have to carry everything in by hand. Lighter is better

[Brian Ryther]

The tool i was talking about is not the main line drill tool. It is completly different. It is a round razor blade with a center pin. The razor cuts the perfect hole with out shavings while the center pin holds the slug, preventing it from falling into the main line. It is faster, cleaner, and alot cheaper thain the main line tool.

[maplecrest]

i use the tool brian is talking about. you can get it at some plumbing supply stores. the only problem with that tool is it is not a tight fit. as drilling gives you a tight fit. i give up the tight fit for the fast, light weight ,fit in your pocket tool.

[OGDENS SUGAR BUSH]

i was reading a earlier post and someone mentioned putting saddles on at the 3 oclock position. can they go on the top or are they for the side of the mainline??

RICH

[Russell Lampron]

I put mine on the top.

Russ

[OGDENS SUGAR BUSH]

Thanks Russell

Rich

[ibby458]

I WISH I could find a dealer that would sell under the catalog price. One local guy sells for catalog price PLUS 10%. I was happy to find one that would not mark it up over cat. price. :(

[maplwrks]

Depending on the manifold that you use. you can put them on the side or the top. I use the double strap type manifold, and put the hole on the top of the mainline. If I were using the multifitting, I would put them on the 2 oclock position. I use only single manifolds, to get the best vacuum transfer that I can. As for catalog prices, everything has gone up in price this year. Most every equipment manufacturer has put out a mid-season catalog because of price increases. I have heard of evaporator prices going up as much as 50%.
Mike

[dhbiker1]

I put up my mainline today and will start running laterals tomorrow. One thing that came to me was where to put the wire when installing saddles (for both straps and cinch down). Does the wire stay underneath the rubber seals?

-One other question is I am wondering if anyone has had vacuum leaks using Lamb Memory Flex? I have a brand new roll and I noticed that I can put all fittings on by hand. It slides on almost "too" easy.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

I think that is why a lot like the Lamb/Leader tubing is that it is so easy to work with.

[PATheron]

DHBiker1- Im not sure I know what you mean. If your talking about where to put the wire ties on the mainline at a manifold location I wouldnt worry about it just tie the main. When you go back to put the manifold in you might just have to slip one out of the way or remove it. The mainline wire does not go under the rubber seal on the manifold. My manifold has a notch in it that the mainline wire rests on top of the manifold and the barbed fitting is directed to the side say at 2 or 3 oclock. The manifold itself goes directly against the tubing. Theron

[ROBIEZ]

dhbiker1-I am using lamb memory flex on a gravity system and have sap leaking at the drops,leaking at the spout and the tee.I have no leakage on the laterals where there is tension on the lines. I think the tension helps seal the tubing to barbs,but with no tension on the drops, it does seal the tubing to the barbs. This is my experience with the memory flex tubing.

[maplecrest]

did you use heat to put the tubing togather?

[jemsklein]

yah we had a roll of tubing 1 inch that was more like 1 1/8 th i could side right on and of the barb ends so it could be bad tubing

[ROBIEZ]

I just pushed the tubing on the fittings by hand. The tubing went on the tee's with some resistence but slipped on the spiles easily. I now have a two handed tubing tool and switching to the lamb ridgid poly tubing, and hopefully no more sap leaks.